Thursday, November 06, 2008

Getting to, er, Michael Pollan

Department of Better Late Than

The VI family gets two papers each Sunday, the CTrib and the NYTimes. From these, I am surest to read the Trib's sport section (not missing the weekly poker column). Next in priority is usually the Times Travel section. Leisure brings, in no particular order, the Times Book Review, the Trib Travel, the Week in Review, the front sections and maybe something in business and style. From there, onward. These days, because I try to make Sunday a, well if not at least a work day, but a productive day, I do not get too deep into my papers. Instead, around Sunday night, I start parsing and sorting and saving for some other time, as our recycler comes on Monday morning. Hopefully, in the week to come, I will get to my paper parts. A long story to say that I saved Michael Pollan's recent food polemic to re-jigger our food system, but never got around to reading it. Luckily, I happened today, to run across Michael Ruhlman's summary of Pollan's solutions to the problems in our food system.

For you readers who might bookmark Ruhlman with the idea of going back (and then, of course going back to Pollan), here's my summary of the summary. Some really good and urgent things that should happen.

—Train a new generation of farmers, spread them throughout the land, and make farming a revered profession.
—Preserve every acre of farmland we have and make it accessible to these farmers.
—Build an infrastructure for a regional food economy—one that can encourage and support the farms and distribute what they grow (rebuild or create regional distribution systems).
—Provide cities grants with which to build structures for year-round farmers markets.
—Create local meat-inspection corps so that we can create more regional slaughter facilities, perhaps the biggest impediment to our being able to find local hand raised meat. (This is huge.)
—Food stamp debit cards should double in value when swiped at a framers’ market; give farmers’ market vouchers to low-income women and children (why does he exclude men, I wonder; a different subject perhaps).
—Make changes in our daily lives: teach children how to cook; plant gardens in every primary school and equip them with kitchens; pay for culinary tuitions (or forgive loans) by requiring culinary graduates to give some service back to such undertakings such as teaching kids how to cook; increase school lunch spending by $1 a day; grow more of our own food and prepare and eat our food together at a table; accept the fact that food may be more expensive and eat less of it.

Do read what Ruhlman has to say, but do, especially, read what Pollan has to say.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Sob Time

Weep here.

Winter Markets Soon!

This weekend brings the Chicago area the first of two winter markets organized by my hard working friend Robin "Winter" and the team at the Churches Center for Land & People.


  • Chicago / Beverly - Saturday November 8, 2008 - 9am to 1pm - - Church of the Holy Nativity - 9300 S. Pleasant Ave.. Chicago, IL 60643

  • Elgin - Sunday November 9, 2008 - 1pm to 3pm - Unitarian Universalist Church of Elgin
    39W830 Highland Ave., Elgin, IL 60124

A wide variety of local foodstuffs should be available at these markets:

• Grass- & grain-fed beef
• Pastured pork
• Free-range chicken
• Mushrooms
• Milled flour & cornmeal
• Goats' milk soap
• Natural tilapia
• Honey
• Basil & other herbs
• Swiss chard, lettuce, kale & other greens
• Onions, garlic & shallots
• Sweet basil vinaigrette
• Raw fibers, yarns & woolen goods
• Yogurt
• Potatoes
• Eggs
• Tomatoes & bell peppers
• Root vegetables
• Hot peppers
• Winter Squash
• Apples & cider
• Beauty & spa products
• Salsas, sauces & preserves
• Infused vinegars, herb blends & rubs
• Cheese & cheese curds
. . . and much more!

There is no reason local eating has to stop. By the way, I recommend that you sample the delicious brunch at the Beverly market, but also save room for two of my area favorites: Top Notch Beefburger and Cupid Candies.

The New (Local) Beet

Redesign out. Catch the Beet!

Monday, November 03, 2008

Eat Local Now and Forever

Inventory Update

When the Localbeet's new design is up and running, you can see how this local family has continued to build its inventory for now and the foreseeable future. We eat some, set much aside, and process other to make it last. Some of the processing makes it last a lot longer, some of the processing makes it last a bit longer. For instance, of the last red bell peppers arriving, some went into the freezer, others were roasted and oiled and still more were roasted and vinegar-ed. Half our giant stalk of Brussels sprouts was shredded, a Mado inspired dish to last a bit. Another Mado dish my wife loves to make is Delicata squash, roasted, which will also last a bit. The tomatillos in the fridge finally went into salsa, and then, some of our large stock of beets were roasted and marinated. The full accounting of what's been processed is here.

The inventory of raw foods is below. We won't be starving for a while, but I worry that its staying too warm for all of my keepers.

Bok choi - 2 large heads

Celery - 2 bunches of heirloom

Brussels Sprouts - Enough to fill a newspaper bag

Cucumbers - 2

Arugula - 3 bags

Apples - Cox orange pippen for immediate eating, then another six or so in the weekly CSA + 1/2 bushel of mutsu, a 1/2 bushel of mixed including northern spy, akane, winesap, courtland, granny smith and a few other varieties; 1/2 bushel of granny smith; 5 lbs of mixing baking (cortland and law rome); 5 lbs of mixed, empire/fuji; 8 large romes (for baked apples) + quart bags of raritan and empire.

Pears - About 15 lbs left including 8 new Asian pears from Oriana, the papple lady, (sold via Green Grocer Chicago)

Grapes - A big handbasket is mostly full of grapes in our downstairs fridge - Somewhat forgotten

Tomatoes - All of the red tomatoes have been eaten; the keeper tomatoes did not keep, but we have a bunch of green tomatoes to process or fry

Red bell peppers - About 8 or so medium peppers

Green bell peppers - About 4 or 5

Jalepeno peppers - Tons

Serrano peppers - Some

Cayenne peppers - 1 pint, but letting them dry

Other hot peppers - poblanos, habeneros, pasillas, etc. - tons

Beets - Maybe 24 smaller and 16 larger

Rutabagas - Maybe 6

Cabbage - 2 larger green; 1 whole red

Garlic scapes - forgotten but amazingly holding up, will make a strange taste of Spring in Fall

Turnips - 2 large white, 3 red "salad" turnips plus a dozen or so sitting around since last spring

Radish - 1 beauty heart; some French breakfast radishes, some regular ol' radishes + 2 daikon

Collard greens - 2 bunches

Celery root - About 8

Cauliflower - 1 head

Eggplants - 1 large, about 8 Nigerian red and 8 or so skinny

Lettuce - bag

Carrots - lots

Garlic - More than enough as we got a braid of local garlic

Leeks - 6 bunches of 3

Dry beans including yellow-eye, Great Northern and red kidney - A good amount

Dry onions - Six or so smaller red; two quarts red torpedo, about five Tropea, several pounds of cippolini; 22 lbs of yellow + more red torpedo

Shallots - 5 or so lbs

Sweet potatoes - A good amount

Potatoes - 25 or so smaller + 1/2 bag of Yukon gold; when I did the move from basement to attic, I found more potatoes than I thought we had, cool + many heirloom (German butterball, fingerlings, etc.) + several pounds of yukon gold, kennebec, norland

Kohlrabi - 2 large; 2 medium

Winter squash - 1 large-ish spaghetti; 8 delicata; 6 acorn, 4 Mexican style pumpkin, 4 butternut

Herbs - rosemary, parsley, thyme, mint, oregano, marjoram, dill

Parsley root - 5

Grains - Michigan grown and ground pastry flour; Illinois grown and ground corn meal; Illinois grown and milled all purpose flour

Friday, October 31, 2008

Up Beet

For those looking for their Local Family update, the Local Beet is down for now and for maybe the next couple of days, as we roll out our updated design. I think you will be well impressed with the new look, so stay tuned at thelocalbeet.com.

I've already jotted down on the Beet, what I got at a last farmer's market yesterday (Eli's Cheesecake) as well as what came in the last summer CSA box. You should be able to see the notes as soon as the Beet is up again. I'll need those notes to update the inventory. It's a week behind.

I did update the preservation list after putting up some red peppers in the freezer this AM.

The Chicago area has at least two farmer's markets this weekend. Green City is not even thinking about closing yet, although it will be in its late fall location, the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum. Bill Kim of the hot on the scene Urban Belly is doing a demo this Saturday. Evanston is also up and running for one last week. If I was not committed to the food pantry, I would really like to be here tomorrow.

Whether you want to make the run to Madison tomorrow or not, the Harmony Valley web site gives a very good indication of just how much stuff is still out there this time of year.

Last, don't fret if you cannot make these last markets, you got plenty of options.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Much to Eat at Mado

I've mentioned at LTHForum.com, that as much as I love Mado, I love it best when offered up family style. I have had the privilege of being there for both of Mado's "Family Dinners", multi-course affairs built around a theme and a farmer. The first one was a harvest dinner, with Nick Nichols of Nichols Farm. Last night it was George Rassmussen of Swan Creek Farm and a wild boar he procurred. I've enjoyed about all my eating at Mado, but I probably enjoy it most at the family dinners.

Like a Chinese banquet, Mado's family dinners operate on the principle that each dish is merely a cog. That the meal comes from the entirety of dishes served, each part playing off another. What's more, there are two more ways that these meals remind me of Chinese banquets. First, there is a mindfulness to the meals. It is not just food on a plate, but food from a farmer nearby, and I mean as in sitting nearby. Moreover, there is a theme to each meal, a chance to think about what the chef is thinking. Second, like a good Chinese banquet, once has to be very careful not to fill up on the initial courses. Chinese banquets often begin with platters of cold cuts, including something meat jelly-ish (as well as often, jellyfish). Mado starts you with two of their house charcuterie. As with a Chinese banquet, it takes will power not just to fill on these things. Hell, it takes me will power not to fill up on the radish parsley salad and fig mostarda. I did have room to eat much food.

I took only one portion of the roasted honey-eggplant 'cause that's a dish my wife's working on herself these days. I did eat two of the made from risotto, arancini. My attempt to eat even more helpings of the canelinni beans with boar shank was ruined by them taking the dish away (despite my pleas). I did, I guess, then have room for two helpings of the boar ragu with house made noodles. I only had one plate of salad, shaved fennel, heirloom apples, boar bacon, chestnuts, but who needs more than one plate of salad, but it was a big plate though. I would have liked a few more slices of the spit-roasted boar loin, but then again, I finished both the slices of cake offered while most around me were splitting at that point. Finally, to help drive a point home, I hope, I ate lavish amounts of roasted celery root and sauteed mustard greens. I wanted the house to know these were very much appreciated.

'Cause I pretty much appreciate all that Mado does. Not just the local-seasonal menus, the nose-to-tail eating, but also the enormous generosity of Chefs Rob and Allie Levitt who have been training my wife in the finer points of kitchen science and who also allowed MikeG and I to show the world what a head can taste like.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Don't Stop Now

After dropping off several bags of product (and some yogurt) in our car, my wife and I returned for a second round of the final Oak Park Farmer's market of the season. I reminded my wife that at one time, the final weeks of the market consisted mostly of gourds and bales of hay (it seemed). Today, well there was so much food, it took us two good laps. Moreover, there were so many people, the line at Farmer Vicki's Genesis Grower's was out the door. With this much product, really, should the market shut down today?

There are certain reasons the market's gone into hibernation. Said Farmer Vicki's got a great guy that works for her, although he's one of the few non-gregarious farmers I know. He did reveal much, however, in his laughing reaction to my comment today to him, "glad to be done." Farming and especially market farming, and even more especially organic/sustainable farming like Genesis Growers is incredibly difficult work. The hours on the field are many. Then vending requires very early rising and very full days. I can see why these guys are ready to get some good rest. For some, inventory is dwindling. One of the Michigan fruit guys said that with the two downtown markets they will be at next week, they will have effectively sold all of their crops for the year. One of the Oak Park vendors was plum our of potatoes, to my chagrin as I had planned on buying. At another vendor, all of the tomatoes left were green. Things could be wrapping up.

Or should they? I am bothered by two things. First, I want the pro's to store the crops. Probably 2/3rds of the stuff for sale today could be for sale in a few months, the beets and celery root and parsnips and squash and onions and potatoes and most of the apples, and a few of the pears. These things would last so much better in good cold, conditions, with the proper humidity, moist for most, dry for some, conditions hard to replicate in a suburban home and even harder in an apartment. Kept well, they could be divvied out to aspiring locavores for a good period. Second, there can be robust late season farming. At the Thursday Eli's Cheesecake Factory market, Chad Nichol's was marveling at all of the cold weather crops. Brussels sprouts, kale, spinach all come out better after some frost. Beets and carrots and parsnips can stick around until the hardest frosts, and even those frosts can be put at bay with a bit of tech. A bit more tech, of course, allows for winter farming of lettuces, herbs, arugula and other items.

I've said this before, but the opportunities are wide in this area. There are farmers in the Northeast who do not begin their season until now. Snug Haven Farm in Wisconsin also operates on this schedule. There should be guys who pick up the slack when the hard working market farmer's take a snooze. There are outlets for winter produce. Robin's got her markets, Cassie's got her Green Grocer and Irv and Shelly have their delivery service. Plus, there's the Vie's and Mado's and Lula's serving market driven menu's. Cannot someone jump into this demand?

There is really no reason that the markets need to wrap up now...except for the farmer's who need a well deserved rest.

Friday, October 24, 2008

Looking Ahead

On thelocalbeet.com, I listed all of the good local food recently gotten, both via CSA and through deals offered at the markets. I'll update the inventory here soon. For now, I want to remind you, firstly do hit the markets this weekend. Most Chicago area markets will close shop after this weekend. As I have reported, now is the time to wheel and deal. Then, after your area markets have closed, get ready to hit the winter markets organized by my friend Robin and Tony of Scotch Hill Organic Farm. They have a full schedule planned from November through March. Robin wants me to remind you, to ask ask your favorite growers if they’ll be participating in markets. The first winter market will be on November 8, a Saturday, 9 - 1, at the Church of the Holy Nativity, 9300 S. Pleasant St., Chicago. The following day, Sunday, there's a market at Unitarian Universalist Church of Elgin, 39W830 Highland Ave, Elgin. The latest schedule of markets can be found here.

In addition to Robin and Tony's markets, Geneva will be throwing up a winter market again at the Inglenook, 11 North State. This year the markets will be on Saturday's instead of Thursdays--here's a report from last year. I cannot speak to the contents of the market yet, but I will say that any trip to the Inglenook is worth it for the cheese selections of Curds and Whey.

Chicago's Green City Market will be around for several more weeks, going indoors in November, but meeting mostly twice a week. I am not sure where stand, rumblings of market hours in the other winter months. News on Green City's hours as well as other continuing markets, can be found on the Illinois Department of Agriculture's Agrihappening's site.

Don't let anyone tell you, you cannot continue to eat local in the Chicago area after October.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Inventory Storage Options

Another week of CSA, the Saturday Oak Park Farmer's Market. We are loading the Bungalow with food. We make full use of the Bungalow and its fixtures to deal with this food. We have our basement "canning room", a room far from the furnace and close to the outside. Up until about September, this is the coolest spot in the house, so all onions, squash and potatoes went there. Generally, it is un-wise to store potatoes and onions together, something about competing gases (maybe). Also, potatoes need more cold. With the turn to colder around here, we go to our attic. This is the coolest part of the house. Today, I moved the potatoes in the basement up to there. The onions we bought today (and we bought a lot), went to the basement. We had already placed our apples in the attic, and the 1/2 bushel I bought today, that went there as well. Finally, we have an extra fridge. That is used for the least giving products. For one thing, it has more summery things not yet eaten or still arriving, like some eggplants and some collard greens. For another thing, it has product that will last but really needs more cold: pears, grapes, cabbage, roots. When it gets even colder, I can trust some roots to the attic, but right now we have not stocked up much in roots anyway.

The newest inventory is below, updated from here--note from there may be some discrepancies in the lists due to my imperfect re-call.

Raspberries - 2 quarts

Apples - Our weekly CSA includes about 6 apples, those get eaten during the week. In storage we have 1/2 bushel of mutsu, a 1/2 bushel of mixed including northern spy, akane, winesap, courtland, granny smith and a few other varieties. In addition to these, we have quart bags of raritan and empire.

Pears - Last year, the Chicago area had a very limited pear crop. We are making up for that this year. Well, it is not so much that it's a bumper crop; it's that we are making a big effort to have pears so that our winter fruit is not so apple-y. We have about 20 lbs right now of various pears, including Asian style pears (papples) in our two fridges. Besides school lunches and other out-of-hand eating, pears make for a good salad course too.

Grapes - A big handbasket is mostly full of grapes in our downstairs fridge, the latest CSA came with 2 quarts, but then one daughter who refuses to fess up, dropped it all over the basement floor.

Watermelon - There is some watermelon left, but after serving my kidz melon in their lunches for days, I let them have a melon-atorium. Now, I wonder if it's not spoiled. Nonetheless, it counts in the inventory for now.

Tomatoes - Still finding tomatoes to buy, so we got a few pints of cherry tomatoes and another seven heirloom tomatoes. The 20 keeper tomatoes have been wrapped in newspaper and set aside in the attic.

Red bell peppers - About 8

6 Green bell peppers - 7 a few tiny speciality peppers (e.g., chocolate) that taste like green peppers

Jalepeno peppers - About 8

Serrano peppers - 4 or so

Cayenne peppers - 1 pint, but letting them dry

Beets - Maybe 24 smaller and 16 larger

Cabbage - 1 larger green; 1/2 of a red; 1 whole red

Garlic scapes - forgotten but amazingly holding up, will make a strange taste of Spring in Fall

Turnips - 2 large white, 3 red "salad" turnips plus a dozen or so sitting around since last spring

Turnip greens - The greens attached to the 2 white turnips

Bekana - One of Farmer Vicki's Asian greens, looks a bit like a long head of romaine; we have two heads

Radish - 1 beauty heart; 1 bunch of French breakfast radishes

Collard greens - 6 bunches

Celery root - 1 large

Cauliflower - 1/2

Eggplants - 2 large

Tomatillos - 12

Lettuce - 1/4th of a bag + 1/2 head of romaine

Carrots - lots

Garlic - Some

Green beans - About 1/2 a Sunday newspaper bag's worth

Dry beans including yellow-eye, Great Northern and red kidney - A good amount

Dry onions - Six or so smaller red; two quarts red torpedo, about five Tropea, several pounds of cippolini; 22 lbs of yellow

Sweet potatoes - 11 (lost one to spoilage)

Potatoes - 25 or so smaller + 1/2 bag of Yukon gold; when I did the move from basement to attic, I found more potatoes than I thought we had. Cool!

Kohlrabi - 2 large; 2 medium

Fennel - 3 stalks

Winter squash - 1 large-ish spaghetti; 6 delicata; 2 acorn

Herbs - rosemary, parsley, thyme, mint, oregano, marjoram

Parsley root - 2

Grains - Michigan grown and ground pastry flour; Illinois grown and ground corn meal; Illinois grown and milled all purpose flour

Friday, October 17, 2008

Meet Ken Dunn

Have I met Ken Dunn? I do not think so, although I might have. I am, however, very, very familiar with his works. I love the stuff they do at City Farm, right in the heart of Chicago, and that's Ken Dunn. I hear restaurateurs rave about his help in making them green, reducing their waste via recycling and composting with the Chicago Resource Center, that's Ken Dunn. I certainly know people who know Ken. They love him.

So, when a little birdie dropped off this link last night to a podcast to a Ken Dunn interview, well I did not regale it to my spam drawer. I wanted to share. So, I hope you enjoy meeting Mr. Dunn too.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Eat Local Strawberries - Now!

The by product of eating locally is eating seasonally. Us locavores will not partake in the ample asparagus or strawberry supplies found around town. Nor would we think of eating a sugar snap about now. Would we?

We would. Well, certainly not the asparagus, but what if there were local strawberries, local snow peas. Now. What if there was someone in Northern Illinois who planted fall crops of these things. Would you eat? Well you can. There's a fella, Bob, he has, it's not a u-pick, rather it's one of those u-pay things (unless he's around). In a room on his property you can find an array of produce he grows, with prices, a scale, and a money box. Be honest!

Here's what he has now:
Red Raspberries Fall weather is their favorite. They are really producing full force now and will continue to do so until the first hard frost (28 degrees or lower).

Strawberries They too like this weather. Likewise they are full of blooms making new berries and will produce abundantly until that hard frost.

Green Beans Beans should be available until the first frost.

Red Potatoes Plenty on hand.

Sweet Potatoes We just started digging and will have an abundant supply.

Tomatoes Plenty available but only until any kind of frost.

Bell Peppers Like tomatoes, any kind of frost will kill these plants. Don’t expect any after frost.

Honey We have an abundant supply obtained from a local bee keeper from whom we rent the hives for pollination purposes. We then buy honey from him for re-sale. We are receiving excellent feed-back from customers regarding this honey.

Egg Plant Plenty available until frost.

Beets Only a very limited supply is left in the field.

Okra We have plenty of okra. Because we want okra when it is still rather small, it is picked 3 times per week.

Snow Peas We planted for a fall crop and it too enjoys the fall weather. Plenty of snow peas available.

Apples There are plenty of Red Delicious apples in storage; however, the supply of Granny Smiths is limited. All other varieties are sold out.

Pumpkins We only have pumpkins available upon advanced notice as we do not grow pumpkins, but they are available from a fellow grower.

Watermelons Like pumpkins, we are obtaining melons from a fellow grower as our supply is exhausted.

He's not too far from the Southern reaches of Chicago. He encourages you to call him (815)428-7382 or cell (815)471-7383 to see what he has, and also to give you good directions. I'd add that when you are driving around this section of Eastern Illinois, you might find a few other farmers with stuff for sale in their front yards. It might not be as unseasonable as Bob's stuff, but it will still be good.

Drink Local

Hey, I could have been like all the cool bloggers and got press credentials for the Chicago Gourmet Festival in Millenium Park. Noooooo. I was instead exercising my first press pass at a Midwest Wine Expo in Rosemont. I wanted to find out more about local wines. I have found enough to write something, either here soon, or maybe on thelocalbeet.com. Until I do, Bill Daley's talking local wine's at the CTrib (hate the redesign, finding the web site not much better)
Midwest wines have not received their proper share of attention—or appreciation. Chicagoans generally ignore these wines, believing them inferior to the wines of France or Italy or California. I'll leave it to others to argue over that. For me, Midwest wines are often, well, different and that's good.
Well, for now, all I will say is I do agree with the different thing.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

What's New at Cassie's Green Grocer

Fall Harvest Party!
Green Grocer Chicago (1402 W Grand Ave.) is in love with this time of year! Leaves are turning brillant colors, the air is crisp and the fall harvest is in full swing!!! Join us on Monday October 20th from 5-7 pm for our Harvest Party, an open house celebration of friends and food. There will be fresh fall produce, samplings from your favorite local food producers, the first-release of Nice Cream ice cream (a brand new gourmet organic ice cream company), hot cider, info on winter farmers markets, vegan pumpkin pie, and so much more! For more information please go to www.greengrocerchicago.com

Making Lists

I've updated the inventory below. Here's how I got there.

Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Inventory Update

No sooner have I reported on our inventory, than I realize I forgot things. On top of that, we went and bought local food yesterday at Caputo's. The tally below includes kohlrabi gotten long ago and peppers gotten just yesterday.

Monday, October 06, 2008

The Return of Inventory

Updated 10/7/08 and 10/14/08

From December 2007 until May of 2008, I tracked how our eat local attempts were working by tracking the local food we had in the Bungalow. Starting in May, when eating local was more about what we purchased each week instead of what we had laying around each week, I took to chronicling our weekly acquisitions. Since the launch of the Local Beet, I have been reporting on the latest purchases there--an update should be online tomorrow, until then, here's the last tally. This is a transition period for the locavore. The supplies of local food remain high enough to support weekly eating, but the time is also now to put-away. We have started buying food for storage. Also, my wife did a bit of cleaning up today, so we got a better handle on some of the vegetables that remain from earlier. Thus, it is a good time to re-report the inventory. Note, we have been canning, drying and freezing and otherwise looking ahead all the time. These preserved foods play a role in our off-season eating, but will not be separately reported on in the inventory.

Apples - We have about 15 or so lbs or apples, several varieties - 10/14: added 1/2 bushel of mutsu

Pears - About 5 lbs of Bosc pears; then another 13 lbs - 10/14: added 4 lbs of Asian pears

Grapes - 2 quarts of Concord grapes - 10/14: added two quarts from CSA

Watermelon - 4/5th of a medium sized melon - now down to 1/5th

Nectarines - 4 (from 8)

Tomatoes - Some cherry tomatoes, about 8 heirloom tomatoes; about 20 keeper tomatoes already wrapped in newspaper and set aside. - Cherry and heirloom eaten and replaced with same.

Red bell peppers - About 8 + a few marinated - 10/14: added 6

Green bell peppers - 4

Jalepeno peppers - 5 - Update: miscounted, have about 12

Serrano peppers - 8 or so

Wonder beans - 1 quart - eaten

Beets - Maybe 24 smaller and 10 larger 10/14: added 6 or so large beets

Cabbage - 1 small green, 1 larger green; 2/3rds of a red - used some of the red, but a lot remains

Garlic scapes - forgotten but amazingly holding up, will make a strange taste of Spring in Fall

Turnips - 3 red "salad" turnips plus a dozen or so sitting around since last spring

Radish - 1/2 daikon, 2 beauty heart 10/14: 1 bunch of French breakfast radishes

Collard greens - 4 bunches 10/14: + 1

Celery root - 1 large

Cauliflower - 2 large

Eggplants - 2 large - used - 10/14: 8 thin

Tomatillos - 12

Zucchini - 12 small - used 6

Baby lettuce - 3/4th of a bag

Agugula - 1/2 bag + 1 head - used - 10/14: new bag

Carrots - lots

Garlic - Some

Green beans - 2 quarts

Dry beans including yellow-eye, Great Northern and red kidney - A good amount

Dry onions - Maybe 12 each, red and yellow

Sweet potatoes - 6 - 10/14: 6 more

Potatoes - 25 or so smaller 10/14: bag of WI Yukon gold, some already used

Kohlrabi - 2 large - 10/14: 2 medium

Hot banana peppers - 8 or so - roasted and marinated, some eaten

Fennel - 3 stalks

Winter squash - 1 large-ish spaghetti, 6 delicata

Herbs - rosemary, parsley, thyme, mint, basil

Grains - Michigan grown and ground pastry flour; Illinois grown and ground corn meal; Illinois grown and milled all purpose flour

Thursday, October 02, 2008

A Head's Tale

My artistic ideas far out pace my artistic abilities. Luckily, like any good Chicagoan, I got my guy. My guy has a camera and editing software and very good abilities using them. And I got another guy. A Chef with a passion for whole beast eating but also the generosity to share his time. And this guy has a gal, his wife, with an equal passion for local food and a willingness to express it all to the Internet. And, before I go on, I got another guy, a local farmer with a huge commitment to real farming. Me and all of those guys plus a few with the onerous task of sampling and expressing their gastronomical opinions; we all made a new Sky Full of Bacon video. We all believe that if you are going to slaughter an animal for food, you should consume the whole animal. This includes the head. As the video demonstrates, with not too much work, you can make the head into something not the least bit gross.

Well, not all of us made the video. That would be Mike Gebert, the man with the camera and the ability to dice several hours of footage into an actual story. Emily and Dennis Wettstein raised the hog on organic pasture and organic feed, and Dennis Wettstein gave a bit of background on organic farming for the folks in TVland. Rob and Allie Levitt of Mado played the role of teachers and advocates, showing their passion for doing things the right way, as well as specifically showing how to turn an ugly part of meat, a pig's head, into something beautiful and tasty. A few folks from LTHForum as well as a special guest blogger turned up to see if it actually tasted as good as it looked. Check out the video to see how they liked it [SPOILER ALERT, IF YOU CLICK ON THE LINK TO HELEN'S BLOG, YOU'LL FIND OUT WHAT SHE THINKS, SO PERHAPS WATCH THE VIDEO FIRST].

There area a lot of "lessons" in this video--and thank the talent of Gebert it does not come across as too preachy--but the lesson I want to most emphasis is how easy it really is to make a dish from the pig's head. As Rob demonstrates, it does not take a lot of special skills, nor does it take an army of sous chefs. There are time elements, a long slow simmer, and then a few days set, but otherwise, the work time is limited. Mike has the recipe on his blog. Consider giving this a try. Before I sign off for now, let me add that it would not be a stretch to make this versions of this dish from other, perhaps more accessible, cuts of meat like beef shanks.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Local Beet Guide to Preservation and Storage

The hardest thing about blogging is not getting the scoop on a new restaurant [ed., I thought we put this to rest here]. It is, obviously, getting regular content out. My blog stats clearly show the effect of regular posting. I confess, however, to being a bit distracted; by work, by the election (especially--access to cable TV during the day is a bad thing), by advocating for local food over at LTHForum, but I have also been busy. With Beet Boss Michal Morowtitz and Melissa Graham, owner of Monogramme Events & Catering and founder of Purple Asparagus, we put up the Local Beet's guide to preserving the seasonal bounty.

Perhaps harder than writing the guide to storage and preservation, was the job of paring down the article. We are especially proud that we could bring to the Internet and the readers of the Localbeet.com, our experiences dealing with preservation and storage. We do not just throw a few links around; we draw upon experience keeping food around to enable year-round local. Just follow this blog for a sense of what it's been like living local through the hungrier times. Co-author Melissa Graham is a long time canner, and her recipes have been featured in the Chicago Tribune (and expect to see some new recipes soon on her blog). Still, if we poured all of what we know, we would have used up the Beet's bandwidth allotment.

With the article, we introduced the basics of preservation and storage. Preservation and storage is much more than getting a canner a-going. It requires thinking about things, contemplating investments, and starting with the right produce. The article covers not just the methods and techniques of storage and preservation but the necessary background. On the other hand, it is necessarily thinner on the teaching. We cannot expect, in one Internet feature, to instruct on complicated topics like canning, drying and fermentation. We do hope we are getting people started on these topics. Look forward to much more features and discussions in this area. Most important, follow again, the stories about how we are actually coping to see how you can cope too.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Pepper Roasting 101a

Julia Thiel in the Reader beat me to the, it's a lot harder than you think to roast pepper, post that I've had in my head since I roasted peppers last Friday. Julia and I use different methods. She broiled, the method advocated by the know-it-alls at Cook's Illustrated. I like the pyro thrill of the open range flame. Julia's problems included not having the best oil for broiling (a problem avoided with the range flame system), the time needed, and the mushiness of the resulting peppers. I'm not sure, but she does not cite the biggest problem I find. The mess. Pretty much all the sources I read mention avoiding too much water in the skinning process. That if you use a jet of water to remove the charred skin, you also use the jet of water to wash away the pepper flavor. Fine, I try as much as possible to keep the water off. Still, the charred skins start taking over my hands like a 50's sci-fi movie monster. I try to limit the damage to one hand, like when breading and frying, keep one hand dry, but as in frying, I seldom keep a hand clean. I must turn on the water to get rid of charred skins. Eventually, not all of the skins are coming off. Eventually, I turn to my friend H2O. I love having roasted peppers in the house. I'm with Julia Thiel in finding it quite a pain, and much more of a pain than you might think.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Preserving the Harvest Class TONIGHT!

Cassie, at her Green Grocer, is hosting a class tonight on preserving the harvest (via).
"Preserving the Harvest"-6pm on September 17th

Eating locally is easy in August. But when Chicago's cold winds begin to blow in October, does being a locavore relegate one to a diet of potatoes? A little foresight and effort during the harvest will bring some sunshine to those cold winter days. In this class, you'll learn the basics of food preservation, including freezing, drying, pickling and jamming. As a take-away, you'll receive a recipe booklet with additional resources on this subject. Presented by Melissa Graham, owner of Monogramme Events, founder of Purple Asparagus and membership chair for Green City Market. Class will be held at Green Grocer Chicago, 1402 W. Grand Ave.
In my post up today at Localbeet.com, I show that local food remains accessible and affordable in the Chicago area. The best way to capitalize on this is by buying heavily now and putting much away for the times when local will not be as easy to come by.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Non-local Local Event

I post this because I know a few people from Ann Arbor read this blog, a few people might be willing to travel to Ann Arbor, and 'cause I love the La Quercia stuff. This Thursday at Zingerman's:

The King of Cure
INCREDIBLY SPECIAL VISITORS — Herb and Kathy Eckhouse from La Quercia
Thursday, September 18th, 7-9pm, Upstairs Next Door
Call 663-3400 to sign up. $20 in advance. $25 at the door
How do you go from working for a seed company to becoming the foremost artisan producer of cured pork products in the nation? Come to this tasting and ask Herb Eckhouse yourself. While he is telling you his story, you can taste his fantastic cured meats and learn about how they are made. And hear about the 50 hogs they finished on acorns last winter. This is a tasting you don't want to miss.

Like most foodies who have visited Ann Arbor, I would say that Zingerman's is about the best food store in the USA. I will also say that Ari and his gang are both dedicated locavores and supreme Internationalists (what exactly is the opposite of a locavore?). On one hand, Zingerman's understands the inherent goodness of local foods. The Roadhouse features local growers for their produce. On the other hand, Zingerman's is all about bringing in food from around the world. Local is not the domain here. Still, a Midwesterner can be well served to keep his or her blinders secure. Amongst the things this locavore brings home from Zingermans:
  • Any of their breads
  • Any of their house made cheeses, especially the cream cheese and fresh mozz'
  • The aforementioned Iowa Quercia ham
  • The made in Grand Rapids Michigan Cream-Nut peanut butter

I wish I could spare a Thursday this Thursday.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Follow the Beat

Proving I can waste time like the best of 'em, I've been trying to blog regularly here and on the Local Beet. We are building content and history on the Beet even though it is far from it's official launch. Michael and I and new Mom, Cookie and a few other have been working behind the scenes to build an outstanding resource for those who want to eat Practically Local. We want to first lead by example. Second, we want to share our experiences and the expertise we have learned in eating local in the Chicago area, especially eating local all the time not just for a period [ed., too chicken to say Challenge?]. Third, we want to assist by having key data there for you. Keep up with the Beet.

In addition to the libraries and files we are compiling, we are about the launch an improved look to the site. Keep your eyes open for that.

In coming weeks there will be more features, including multi-media. As I have promised already, we will soon publish on keeping and preserving your seasonal bounty.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Eat Local Now - Day 3 of the Localvore Challenge

As I said on the Local Beet this morning, the best way to convince you to eat local is to have you eat local. I am sure your first few days on the challenge have got you revved up to the deliciousness of the challenge. So revved that you need places to re-fuel, see my Local Beet post for places to shop local. As you visit these shops, take in some of these items.

Some of these things are not exclusively local, i.e., you could get them in other areas, but the key thing is that to best take advantage of these things, you have to eat local.
  • Fresh lima beans - One of the last crops to come into season is the fresh or shelling beans. It is easy to walk in to the typical grocery and find dried, canned and frozen lima beans, but if you ever want to know why people started eating limas in the first place, try fresh. Need to know how to make real succotash, see here.
  • Concord grapes - Can you deal with a pit. Spit a seed. If so, you can stand the immense difference in taste between Concord grapes and supermarket Thompson seedless. It continues to amaze me that something so complex in flavor as the Concord makes such awful wine. In fact any cooking of the grape, like jelly, seems to reduce the Willy Wonka-ishness of this fruit. So go for them raw or freeze them to make quasi-sorbet.
  • Holland Family Farm's "Marieke Gouda" - I'm the kinda guy who's favorite cheese is often the last one tried, but right now this farmstead cheese from Wisconsin is my favorite. I am sure I could find something this good in Holland, but I have never tasted a Gouda even close to this. It is aged on wooden boards so it is much harder and more intense than typical Gouda, at least the ones I know. It is also far from one dimensional, the result, I know of using raw milk. Track this one down.
  • Perch - It was just yesterday that I was reminding you that your local meals could include fish. Here's the thing, not only can your local meals include fish, but you can have fish not available to those locavores you envy in California. I am talking about Great Lakes perch. I've been known to throw perch out as one of my top ten favorite foods. Iron Chef-testant Paul Virant knows too, he has perch on his menu now, and I can specifically vouch for this dish having had it last Friday. It truly tastes different than ocean fish.
  • Black walnuts - Nuts seem to remain a conundrum for area locavores. The problem with black walnuts is, the crop is prevalent but their appearance in markets is rare. This is partially due to the ridiculously hard time it takes to crack and shell black walnuts--driving your car over them is one suggested methods. The taste, however, is exquisite, with a grapey must that you do not find in "regular" walnuts.

The eat local challenges tend to focus people on things they cannot have. After all, the first thing you do is lay out your exceptions. The second is ruminate on what you appear to be missing. It's like while I fast for Yom Kippur all I think about is eating. Instead of praying for slab of salmon or the out-of-season asparagus, think about the products that are there waiting for you just because you eat local.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Eat Local Now - Day 2 of the Localvore Challenge

Local Fish

Are you satisfied so far with your eating options after a day of Localvore Challenge? Are tomatoes boring you yet. Too many scrambled eggs. Are you in need of protein ideas for your sustainence. Ennui in the diet will lead you off the local path. Keep your diet diverse. Do you know that fish can easily fit within the parameters of your Challenge requirements.

I will confess, under my mantra of don't make yourself nuts eating local, that I have purchased during the last four years, various seafood--I'm a sucker for the marinated shrimp skewers at Whole Foods when they are on sale. I also very much eat canned tuna, sardines, anchovies, and herrings, but at least these fall into my made to travel exception. These purchases aside, I sometimes miss seafood. What keeps me missing it too much is the quality of seafood around here, at least for the price. What also keeps me from missing seafood is the good fish options.

If I do not purchase halibut at the store or some version of salmon, I am not without my fish. It can come from the Great Lakes, and it can come from area fish farms. Great Lakes fish include perch and whitefish, with the latter being cheaper and more available. It is common to find Great Lakes fish at area supermarkets, but it is really worth a trip to Devon Ave. for the last of the old time Jewish fishmongers, which these days means a Mexican fishmonger. No place sells a fresher whitefish than Roberts. Roberts alone will keep you from missing ocean fish. Farm raised fish carries mixed connotations. To some it can seem too tasteless and too eco-damaging. I am pretty sure the organic, sustainable system at AquaRanch is green. I'll leave the taste of their tilapia to you. Try this fish raised in Illinois from the freezer case at Cassie's Green Grocer. I'm plenty happy with the flavor of farm raised rainbow trout from Rushing Waters farm in Wisconsin. These fish are widely found at markets in the Chicago area, including Whole Foods. If you ever travel to farmer's markets in Wisconsin, you will find smaller producers of farm raised fish. The Chicago area local diet may not have seafood, but it does not need to be fish-less.

Success in your eat local challenge comes from keeping your diet diverse. There is no reason that local cannot be diverse. Make it diverse by including local fish.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Eat Local Now - Chicago's Localvore Challenge

Local Booze/Local Cold Cuts

Today begins the Green City Market Localvore Challenge, with rules or at least guidelines and all. As I wrote on the Local Beet, I am not exactly participating, but I also noted that I am not wholly against the Challenge. In that spirit, here's some ideas and insight to help you eat local now. If you have specific questions, raise them on the Local Beet discussion board.

The Green City Bloggers are realizing the first lesson of eating local, what I call the Smokey Robinson Rule. You Got to Shop Around. The Green City Market is bringing in more farmers this week to reduce that shopping around, but even if you could meet all of your cooking needs for the next few weeks at the Green City Market, it stands that you might not be able to be at Green City all of the time. Parking aside, there are locavores who cannot shop at Green City. More, does Green City meet all of your diet needs. What else do you want to consume these two weeks?

The Green City Bloggers all seem in a quandary over local booze. After all, the Green City Market is dry. Drinking local is one of the easier parts of the local challenge as was easily seen at this year's Green City BBQ. You can stock your bar with local gin, vodka, and rye whiskey; rum's a bit harder. You have wines produced in all of the states around Illinois, with some I really like from Michigan. If you cannot find enough local beer to take you through the two weeks, you are not trying very hard. You can relax over an after dinner drink made from local grappa. Your whole localvore challenge can be one drunken blur from local alcohol.

When you sober up, what else do you need. I'll fill in some of my favorite local products during the next two weeks, most of these things I have mentioned before on this site. For today, I'll mention local cold cuts. If your goal is to simply find sausages made in Chicago (or the suburbs), your choices are huge. Why not Bende Hungarian salami or the copas made by Riveria on Chicago's Harlem fringe. If you want more specifically local, how 'bout the Gunthrop Farms ham sold at Fox and Obel or the Nueske ham sold at Marion Street Cheese. If you want to lunch on more than salads this week, take advantage of our local cold cuts.

Take advantage of the richness and the diversity of the Green City Market, including the added vendors, but do not expect to get all of your food there. Or what I am really trying to say is, do not rely solely on what the Green City Market's vendors sell. Instead, continue to eat all of your favorite foods, just make them local foods.

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Are You Up For the Challenge - Green City Market Eat Local Challenge

Chicago's Green City Market is sponsoring a "Localvore Challenge" [ed., still using that spelling huh?]. Last year they wanted you to eat local for a week; this year they are extending it a week. Eat local for two weeks!

At the Beet, Michael wonders about the challenge:.
I’m pleased by any attention brought to the idea of eating locally-produced foods, but I tend to bristle a bit at these short-term “events” where people try to endure the pain of changing their habits for a short period of time. Changing your shopping and dietary habits is a difficult process and not something that can be taken on in a cold turkey mode.
I’d love to see the organizers of this event follow up with some participants a year later and see if they held on to any of the changes they made during the two-week event. I’m skeptical about the effectiveness of these challenges and I don’t like how they frame eating locally as something that you need to “endure”, but I’m still hopeful that the Locavore Challenge can turn a few people towards locally-farmed foods.
I think Michael is right-on, but I am a little more generous to the benefits of the Challenge.

I am, however, a bit miffed that the wisdom of this blog and the Local Beet are not more fully drawn on by those blogging for Green City. I've taken my complaints to the Beet's forum. Hope to see you there--and not just to talk about the Green City bloggers!

Eat Local Cheese - The Guide

Via, you can get a guide to Wisconsin cheese.

Who the Hell Dries Their Food

Readers, I asked you a few weeks ago, the question of our times: Who the Hell Cans. I followed that up by asking you if you do not can, can you simply concentrate and freeze? Yet maybe to my warped mind, canning seems downright mainstream to question, who the hell dries their food. We have have a local chef popular and notable enough to be asked to compete on Iron Chef America, who is also popular and notable for his work with the canner. Just yesterday, he was teaching a class on canning at Vie, and he will soon be teaching a canning class at the Chopping Block. If canning can be hard work, it also evokes nostalgia. It brings well-worn but favorite foods back to the home. A good deal of the interest in canning, I believe, is about the recipes, the relishes, chutneys, jams and jellies, pickles, that canning produces. It is only partially about the preservation. If you are really serious about putting aside, you not only can, you dry. Drying your food makes you sound not just like a locavore but like a survivalist.

Now, I say all of this as someone who's desire to dry has long succeeded more than his actual work in drying. My plans for drying have frequently gone awry. A 1/2 bushel of plums intended for prunes instead turned to mold. Ideas for celery powder for use in soups and braises remain conceptual. Still, when my wife and I purchased a new toaster oven last year, we specifically picked the one with a dehydrate setting. We are more than canners. We are driers.

OK, not we, like most of the hard work, it is she that has dried. Last week she took a big batch of Michigan plum tomatoes and dried them away. The nice thing about drying tomatoes is that you skip the skinning step. The tomatoes still need to be halved (the long way), cored and seeded, so pre-heat your oven to 200 degrees while doing the knife work. Put the tomato halves on a trays lined with parchment paper. Salt the tomatoes but not too much. Turn the oven down to 175 and insert the sheets. After a few hours, open the door but otherwise continue. Monitor the tomatoes after that, you do not want them to start cooking too aggressively. Occasionally, turn the sheets. The tomatoes will take about eight hours to dry nicely. Turn off the oven but allow the tomatoes to continue to air dry for several days, some recipes call for up to seven to ten days of air drying. My wife is not sure if she will wait that long. At this point, the tomatoes are ready to use but not ready to save. Long term storage requires the tomatoes one more step. Either the tomatoes can be frozen for a few days or they can be put back in the oven at 175 for a few hours.

Dried tomatoes are frequently used these days as a product in and of themselves, the dried texture being a feature of the recipes, like say a dried tomato pesto. Dried tomatoes, however, can be re-hydrated and used somewhat like you would use other forms of preserved tomatoes such as in sauces.

Complete list of what's been put aside here.

Friday, September 05, 2008

Eat At Green Restaurants

Earlier this summer I learned about the efforts of Dean Zanella and 312 Chicago restaurant to run a zero waste kitchen. Chef Zanella suceeded so far that his cooking oil went back to fuel the tractors of the farmer's who supplied him. I knew of some other chefs who clamored to emulate Zanella. One who is now suceeding is future Iron Chef, Paul Virant of Vie. Paul graciously allowed me to re-print some news he has:
The first newsletter of the 2008, I spoke about minimizing "landfill" waste. As of Saturday August 23rd, we are doing it! Harry Carr from Mint Creek Farm picks up our food waste every Wednesday after the Green City Market. The Resource Center (which operates City Farm) picks up our recyclables (glass, plastic containers and aluminum). BFI continues to pick up our cardboard/paper (which is hopefully recycled, though I'm very skeptical). This leaves only a small amount of true trash. I was proud to be one of Food & Wine magazines "Best New Chefs" in 2007, but this accomplishment makes me prouder...If every individual, family, corporation and business would begin to, and continue to make these types of changes, the ecological health of the world will be preserved for generations to come...
I plan on being at Vie tonight. I also plan on celebrating this great news the best way I know, with a great meal.

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

More Beet - How Can You Eat Local All Year

Is this blog simply the repository of posts leading to the Local Beet? Dunno, but in the meantime, keep track of our latest visit to a farmer's market + our weekly CSA here. More importantly, the Local Beet has published its guide to Fall/Winter CSAs. Michael's first mission when he launched the Local Beet was to offer practical advice on eating local. In other words, he did not aim for a lofty see how we do it standard, rather he wanted us to be in it together. One of the first steps towards practical local, towards always eating local, is the ability to eat local beyond the months when farmer's markets exist. One way for people to do that is to subscribe to Fall/Winter CSAs. The Local Beet's newly published guide should help.

On the same vein, practical, eating local more, I will soon be publishing something on the Local Beet on making your harvest last. My wife and I answer the question, "how can eat local all year, in Chicago by saying we do two things. We keep food around--canned, frozen and "cellar-ed"), and we shop for local via our Spring and Fall Genesis Growers CSA, Robin's Winter markets, Irv and Shelly and Cassie's Green Grocer (as well as where ever else we find local). There is no right answer as to which is more important stored vs. buying, but I can say for sure, that which matters more depends on your individual circumstances. My hunch is that most local eaters have limited root cellars, no extra freezer and little experience canning. So, regardless of how much they learn to put-aside, sources for buying remain, well, vital. We got you covered.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Get With the Local Beet

I've been reporting on my weekly local acquisitions at the Local Beet and rallying people to buy now when it's most affordable and accessible. Michael tackles the anti's, then opens the discussions. Another good discussion is on what to do with the seasons tomatoes. All this while we are still in soft launch.

Look soon to a guide to off-season CSAs and after that, advice for how to store and put-away your local food. We are working hard behind the scenes to create the best possible guides to local stores, restaurants, markets, etc. The Beet rolls with what's local today and what's local tomorrow.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Eat Seasonal Food - Suffering Succotash

If you are of a certain generation, you immediately think Yosemite Sam when you hear the word succotash. "Mommy was saying the same thing" was my daughter's bit of exasperation when I walked around the kitchen exclaiming, "suffering succotash". Who can make succotash without saying that. Who makes succotash?

Who makes succotash the right way. To the extent that it is eaten, succotash tends to be a bag of Birdseye frozen, corn niblets and starchy limas. It is the latter that give it its bad rap. Why Sam suffered with it. I would guess that most people believe that the corn got there to rescue kidz palates from suffering with too much lima. Local, as always comes to the rescue, that and a bit of tradition.

First, the tradition, how many of you knew that succotash was not just some school cafeteria side but rather an all in one meal. A meal based on what the early settlers in New England saw being eaten by those here ahead of them. Many, but not all, early recipes for succotash included some meat, especially the standard meat of the day, salt pork. A little history can be read here. So, what they saw being eaten was what was in season at that time, fresh beans and sweet corn. As Top Chef Tom Collichio is want to say, what grows together, goes together. You can make a superior succotash if using the season's fresh, fresh beans and fresh corn. Including some pork really makes superior succotash, an all-in-one dish.

I used slab bacon instead of salt pork, what I had around. I also used fresh Illinois crowder beans instead of fresh limas, but I do not think that matters too much. You cook fresh beans in a minimal amount of water (start with cold water); the water should be only about an inch over the beans. The beans need about 15 minutes of cooking once the water comes to a boil, at which time you turn to a simmer. The actual cooking time for the beans will vary based on what fresh bean you use. While the beans are cooking, make lardons of the slab bacon then crisp them up on medium heat in a skillet. Slice an onion. In the bacon grease get the onion a-cooking. A bit of garlic, not too heavy, this is New England cooking, and fresh chile (likewise) add dimension. If your corn is raw, a quick blanch could be done, but really, you could add it raw. The final product is the result of mixing in the beans and corn with the porky goodness. Season to taste, taking into account the saltiness of your pork. Serve with some spiced vinegar.

I suppose a good hard cider would go best, but that's something still for the local wishlist. I drank an Atwater Pilsner brewed in Detroit, Michigan. I toasted our early settlers and the ones here even earlier who inspired and taught this dish. Made proper, no one is gonna suffer with succotash.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Mado Truly Revealed

Department of Whoops, Part 2,73

I somehow managed to put the wrong link in my Mado post yesterday. What I want to reveal, most of all, is how good the food can look at Mado, and what I need to do most of all, is correctly link to the post by Ronnie Suburban. It's here!

Monday, August 25, 2008

Old Wounds Still Un-healed? Chowhound

I admit I'm not the food board addict that I used to be. I would venture that I skip over the vast bulk of posts on LTHForum, surely missing some great stuff--not the least bit noticing that someone had asked about surplus cucumbers a day before I raised the question on the Local Beet. Dumb on my part for sure. If I read less of LTHForum than I once did, what about Chowhound/Chicago where I once ruled as the benevolent "mayor". I hardly ever drop by. Yesterday, though, in a fit of non-work pique, I decided to see what was there. What do I find, but a question on farmer's markets, a topic near and dear to me. I post some useful advice, namely a link to the Illinois Department of Agriculture's Agrihappening web site for a person to find a market in their area. Inspired and feeling generous, I find a second post on farmer's markets. I share a bit of my knowledge on downtown markets and vendors. Today, between cases, I decide to see if anyone noticed. They did. Gone! Both of my posts.

Gone! I never realized I was flat out banned from Chowhound. It would be a bit unfair and disengenuos of me not to say that in one of the two posts, I mentioned the Local Beet as a source for eat local discussion. I can possibly see the deletion of that post. How 'bout asking me to edit the reference. Still, why the other post with no reference to anything more than my blog, which I understand is within the CH rules? And why generally the drastic deletion of reference to another site? Years now, CH has allowed links and references back to LTHForum.

The Chowhound rupture ruptured a lot of things for me, personally. I've (mostly) moved on; I am surprised a place like that has not.

Mado Revealed

For the, er, several who read this vehicle steadily, you know that I mention Mado restaurant a lot. I expressed affection for the place before it opened, or at least before I visited. Mado lured me with its twin missions of serving an ever changing menu of market driven cuisine and its dedication to using the whole beast. I have since dined at Mado, I believe, eight times. I have found my initial instincts to be correct. I really enjoy Mado, not just the food presented but the whole Mado shtick. I do, however, need to reveal a few things about Mado.

What Mado looks like: one of the most active in the Chicago eating community, Ronnie Suburban, takes great food pics. We dined with him at Mado last week. Let his pictures do the talking.

The menu canard: the early reviews of Mado warned
By the time you read about what I ate at Allison and Rob Levitt’s minimalist new Wicker Park restaurant, you may have to wait until next year to try some of it.
I've already revealed this on the blog, but Mado does not change quite as much as first suspected. The hanger steak has not left the menu, nor has baby octopus. A grilled lake fish, probably trout, will be there, with a spare sauce, either herb or nut based. Given that these items have been consistently spot-on, I am not so much complaining. Still, not as an every day diner, but as a frequent Mado diner, I can report that the menu does not change as much as you would think.

The impact: over the last several years, my food interests have segued from the hounding, find the next great find mentality, to an intense interest in local, farms and the such. In other words, instead of having a new favorite restaurant each week, I have come to favor only a few. Instead we mostly dine-in on our bounty of local. Mado joined a short list. It is special to me, and I have had few bad things to say about it both in idealism and execution. As I said above, nearly everything I have eaten at Mado, I have loved. Still, I want to express a few ires.

The ires: I think I have already expressed my primary ire, a tendency to play it safe. This, of course, is only a criticism that a true devotee, a full kool-aid sucker could express. I think I understand Mado's concerns. The need to attract customers not as over-the-top as me. To afford some safety or at least have dishes that will sell. It's a needle-threader. I think there are many up to the challenge. More lamb belly? Cuts of cow beyond hanger? Get a little Fergus Henderson on us Rob. Also, I'd like to see a bit more veg adventure too. Mado tends to stall on favored preparations. Small potatoes are roasted; summer squash is escabeached; eggplants are honeyed. The left side of Mado's menu seemed a bit stagnant on my last visit.

Am I like the indy music fan who rejects his favorite band on the first whiff of its hitting it big? But I love Nevermind. I love Mado. I do not think Mado has gone downhill in two short months, nor has it violated any spirit it once had. I think a few revelations, good and bad, are fine for this blog.

Mado
1647 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 342-2340
Website under construction

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Who the Hell Cans - Oven Concentrate

No, it is not a sign of defeat that a good portion of this afternoon was set to tomatoes but not to canning tomatoes. It is not of frustration. Believe me, it is not for ease. Instead, it is just more ways to set aside our bounty. Also, it is a good recipe for the many tomatoes that are about as ripe as they are gonna get, as well as the ones with bruises and cuts.

I'm talking tomato concentrate. Not quite a home made tomato paste but something close. The method is to find your nearly rottonest tomatoes; quarter, cook them in a big pot until they get soft--in our case two big pots as we had many very ripe tomatoes. You run them through a food mill to remove the seeds and skins. Return to a pot and cook down for two hours. Think you are done? From there (where we have not gotten yet) you bake in a very slow oven, about 200 degrees, for like five hours.

It's a lot of tomatoes for a few cups of product, but this concentrate should serve us very well for many a dish come winter. It will go in small bags in the freezer.

Eat local all year round via canning and freezing.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Who the Hell Cans

Me, I inspire local eating. OK, between some casework this afternoon I helped my wife a bit. I peeled about 20 tomatoes and de-seeded maybe five. Me, I applaud the effort my wife makes towards our eat local eating. I did just come down and wash a few bowls. I did the really fun job: shove things down the garbage disposal.

Who the hell cans.

There are very good reasons for canning food. Firstly, probably foremost, it allows you to eat local for many months after the market closes. Canning allows you to find fine product, and grab it for when the time is needed. It can save a lot of money. We got an ungodly amount of Michigan tomatoes, a full bushel, for under $17. We will have at least 15 quarts of canned tomatoes. Lastly, canning spares precious freezer space.

Who the hell cans.

Maybe, someone's day would not start quite like my wife's, consulting 43 or so cook books. She was most vexed by the choice of acid. Most recipe's, including Ball, which we would trust the most, call for lemon juice. She found vinegar based recipes.

Who the hell cans.

The cleaning of jars. The sanitizing. Score tomatoes. The boil. The shock. How much ice do you have. Peel. Seed. Pack. Process. Some say 45. Some say 50.

Who the hell cans.

We have barely made a dent in our bushel of tomatoes.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Eat Local Jobs

Well, maybe not eat local postions near Chicago, but eat local jobs nonetheless.

From St. John's e-mail:

Now that St. John has reopened following a summer break for refurbishment works, we have a number of vacancies on our restaurant floor and behind our bar. If you one of our website members in the hospitality trade the do visit the news page where full details of current situations vacant can be found.[sic]

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

It Must Still Be Paradise

Martha Bayne wonders.

A Bushel Here, Bushel There

Updates

The family and I remain very busy locavores. I blog and take the glory. My wife does the hard work. I'll be keeping track of our acquisitions over at the Local Beet. My last report was here. I expect to file a new report today at the Beet. The Beet also has its latest feature up, on some truly local food, by Michael Gebert. Gerbert's been on the weed trail as he prepares his next Sky Full of Bacon video. It won't make for as interesting TV, but Cassie Green of Green Grocer and myself are being interviewed for a cable show in Highland Park, IL today.

Driving through Michigan recently, we picked up a 1/2 peck of Red Haven peaches. She, with (the sometimes) able help of younger daughter, peeled all of these, a process involving much pots of water hot and cold. Some went into a recently baked pie. The rest have gone into the freezer for later pies and cobblers.

Chicago to Urbana on a Saturday morning, Interstate, took less than 3 hours. Urbana to Chicago via US 150 and Illinois 1, took most of the next day. 13 ears of sweet corn in Hooperstown; a bushel of crowder peas--actually we do not know exactly what type of beans these are within the family of Southern style fresh beans--from a man selling in his front lawn near Momence helped slow us down.

All four of us did some shelling, but as typical She did more. Most of the beans went into the freezer. We ate some last night. We also ate some of the corn last night; we will probably freeze the rest today.

We could not resist a brimming bushel of Michigan tomatoes for sale at Caputo's in Elmwood Park. I could say "we" expect to can them today or tomorrow but that would be a disservice to the Woman who will do all the work.

Another way to make your summer veg last is to cook them all down into a jammy, spreadish sweet n' sour, condiment, appetizer like thing called caponata. The version She made included eggplants, summer squash, onions, tomatoes, capers and chopped prunes. She did not seal the product, but it should last a good long time in the fridge.

You can track our put-aways here.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Drink Local Beer

Not everything on this blog is related to local beer, but enough is.

No Place Better to Eat - Farm Dinner - Prairie Fruits Farm

KennyZ, an LTHer really has my number. Not that long ago my wife and I went to a food based event presented by the Shriver Center that we learned of from Kenny. Kenny and I are also charter members of the Mado fan club. I had my first Mado meal with him. When Kenny told me about a farm dinner at Prairie Fruits Farm, I think he knew I'd jump at the idea. We had a near ideal dinner on the prairie the other night. (The night also very much possible by the gracious sitting of my parents.)

Prairie Fruits Farms is the off-spring of Wes Jarrell and Leslie Cooperband. As they say on their site, they moved from urban and academic life, to life on the farm. They raise goats, producing farmstead goat cheeses, and they grow fruits including peaches and berries. They are especially committed to local foods. Beyond selling their fresh fruits, they are looking for ways to offer their produce year round through canned goods, freezing and perhaps drying. They also realized that nothing showcases local foos more than eating local food, and there is no place better for eating local food than feet from where it grew (at least some of the meal). Hence the farm dinners. I should also add that at this was a bargain at $65/BYOB.





The night began with very refreshing mason jars of tea made with the farm's peaches and black currents. The day started out cool, but near dinner time, it felt more like Illinois August. The tea fixed a parched throat. With the tea went assorted nibbles. They grilled cheese sandwiches of their Little Bloom on the Prairie goat milk cheese, then accented it with peach chutney and farm harvested honey. They fried squash flowers plus tiny squash, the blossoms stuffed with the freshest of chevre.

Our last pre-bites: corn cakes with andouille sausage from Stan Schute's Triple S Farms with a roasted green chili relish. This could have been a great dinner here.

Momentarily satiated, Wes took us on a small farm tour.




We all gathered around Wes's tractor pulpit including the hens that followed us and the goats that wandered in from their pasture, to hear about farm life and cheese production. That was interesting, but the highlight was Wes teaching us how to pick a fresh peach, about as good a taste as we had all night.



That's not to diminish at all the work of Alisa DeMarco, the farm chef.




I'm more of a fan of chunky gazpacho, but I cannot complain in the least of this pureed version, its strong tomato essence highlighted with a good kick of garlic and touch of hot pepper. Dinner came in large platters. For all the talk of slow food conviviality at the dinner, we went after the food with much gusto. Thus, I never got around to capturing the servings. Instead, see what my first helping looked light--I had much more of everything. We all loved the Country Cottage Farm lamb, but really loved the veg including eggplant agrodulce and roasted heirloom potatoes.

After dinner Kenny hit on the one flaw in the night (I have one other quibble, but I'll get to that in a moment). Our tables were oriented so that half the crowd, the unlucky half, faced the still blazin' prairie sun for most of the dinner. It was hot. It would have made more sense to face the tables the other direction. On the other hand, it meant we got to take in the blazin' prairie sun-set without craning our necks.



Of course there was cheese and then dessert.




We had three house cheeses in a range of ages, with little doo-dads of flavors along side such as currents in gin syrup and honey comb. The finish included their peaches and gelato made from their goat milk. My one quibble of the night, the only food touch that did not work for me; I did not much go for the bits of fresh herbs on the peach pie. Of course, I just picked them aside and ate away.

You all should be inspired by KennyZ's idea.

The Crack is Back

I needed to put my older daughter on a train this AM very early. It meant I also got to get my Marion Street Cheese fix very early. So early, however, that the ode-worthy (you know who you are, Mr. Poet) danish were still in the oven. I settled for a cup of coffee and a very needed fix for the wife.

Hoo-hoo, see the coolers are all back in service at Marion. With that, Marion is now carrying my wife's favorite local dairy product (and she has a lot from Hidden Springs Creamery "Driftless" spreads to chevres from Prairie Fruit Farms to all our Wisconsin cheeses). I'm talking her near addiction, Trader's Point Creamery Orchard Trio yogurt. I'd ask her for a few words but she's sleeping off a very late night, a deadly combination of shelling beans and searching for a cell phone.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Glimmers of Local Food

Non-food advice to anyone with with a teenager daughter: hide the camera.

Is it fully her fault? I've been meaning to download the pictures on the camera for ages. I was not sure where I stashed away the cord, but it turned out to be not hard to find. Do I share some blame over the local food pictures being over-written for artistic shots of her and her friend [ed. and her and her friend and Moe the cat]. Instead of pages full of images of what local food looks like, here, my friends are a few glimmers.



Here's a few glimpses of our local meat, beef from our 1/2 cow we purchased over a year ago from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers. I think these pics support my view that there is little loss of quality with freezing the meat. On the other hand, the first pic shows one of the downsides with local meat, the butchering. Look at the middle steak. Ever see a ribeye cut that way?

The locavore's mantra is to eat what is in season, eat it in abundance and then be done with it. We may catch up with some frozen asparagus in the winter, but we enjoyed it while it lasted.



This was the riso discussed here and here's Tuscan night mentioned in that same post.



Local fava beans are even more fleeting than local asparagus. We've never had much need for favas until Chad Nichols introduced us to favas and the grill. Here's our it looked the first time I did it.


Thursday, August 14, 2008

Eat Local Meat

Nose to Tail

I've mentioned many a time, that the best way to purchase and consume local meat is by obtaining the whole beast. In this week's Time Out Chicago (via) Heather Shouse talks with several local chefs who get their own animals and then break the carcasses down themselves. Of course your whole animal will probably come broken down already. Still, like the Chefs, you'll have plenty of odds and ends as well as the kiskes or fifth quarter. See what these guys are doing with their local meat.

Eat Local Watermelon

I get my first watermelon of the season this week. Melons take a lot of heat, time, so it takes a good amount of summer to get local watermelon (although my wife interjects that the muskmelons so far have been incredible). Farmer Vicki promised me, in her weekly e-mail, something called Lamar, a seedless melon, and the best melon she has ever grown. I have a feeling she will be right. She usually is.

A lot of local foodies go ga-ga, not over Lamar, but over melons trucked in from the South and sold at the Baylor Melon Market. I am hesitant to throw too much criticism at the Baylor melons. The only time I tried one, at the LTHForum picnic a few years ago, the melons were unfortunately fermented. Still, I put my faith in Farmer Vicki, and I suspect that a certain amount of the Baylor allure stands for the specialness of the product, the transport via bus and the ties to historical agriculture. Then again, a lot of people like the Baylor melons. I want local.

From yesterday's CTrib:
Grower Chris Sutton, owner of Sutton Fruit and Vegetable in Kaufman County, Texas, says that your best bet is to buy local and in season. According to the National Watermelon Promotion Board, you should look for "a firm, symmetrical watermelon that is free of bruises, cuts or dents. When you see a nice-looking watermelon, pick it up and feel its heft; then pick up a few others of similar size to compare. At 92 percent water, a good melon should feel heavy for its size. Seeded varieties tend to be sweeter, Sutton said, "because the seed cavities cause it to be riper." How do you know a watermelon ripened on the vine? Easy: Turn the melon over and check for a creamy yellow spot. That's a sign that the watermelon sat on the ground and in the sun to ripen.

Does your melon have a creamy yellow spot?

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

How Fare the Battle for Local

About 2 weeks ago, I gathered up all the weekly inserts in the Chicago Tribune for grocery stores. I meant to write a post highlighting the amount of local foodstufs advertised by the lot (including Dominicks, Jewel, Tony's, Ultra Foods and Caputo's). As a lot of my ideas of late, it remains inchoate (+ one post in draft form and another post that got killed by an Internet Explorer crash). The bad news from the delay, it seems like the forces of local have had some setbacks.

A few weeks ago, all the stores featured several local items (produce) in their fliers. Today, the pickings are fewer. To wit:

  • Food4Less - No specifically delineated local products. Worse, the navel oranges are highlighted with a big bar "IMPORTED!".
  • Jewel-Osco - See above. No produce labeled local; Australian navel oranges. They do note their peaches and nectarines are "Bursting with Pick'd Ripe First of Summer Flavor [sic]". Believe them?
  • Tony's Finer Foods - Getting better. They advertise "Sweet Michigan Blueberries".
  • Ultra Foods - Take that: home grown green beans, zucchini and yellow squash.
  • Domincik's - One one hand, they have the absurdity of an ad for hot house cucumbers right above copy that reads, "It's Peak Season!", but they do also advertise locally grown blueberries, sweet corn and green beans.
  • Angelo Caputo's - I save the best for last, the staunched of the bunch. They advertise Michigan green peppers, Michigan peaches, Michigan pickles, Michigan grown farm fresh eggplant, Michigan grown farm fresh large ripe tomatoes, locally grown green onions, locally grown Romaine lettuce, locally grown basil, and Illinois farm fresh sweet corn. Where should you shop?

Here's the real kicker. Everything Caputo's advertises, they offer for less than $1 per pound or $1/per item. For instance, their Illinois sweet corn sells 5 for $1. C'mon! Anyone who tells you that local is not affordable or accessible, well get thee over to Caputo's now. I was there yesterday and besides what is on advertisement, the local included cabbages at something ungoldy cheap like 3 lbs/$1 and an assortment of local peppers. If price is a strong concern, stock up on your local now, when it is cheapest. Green beans and corn freeze especially well. Peppers can be preserved in oil. These are not quite canning tomatoes, but Caputo's will have them soon. Eat local.

Let's monitor the battle front in the weeks to come.