ABC 7's Hungry Hound Covers Local Farmer

Meet My Farmer, Farmer Vicki

I should hardly say I have one farmer. I buy a ton of stuff from Chad Nichols at the Thursday Eli's Cheesecake market. I divide my fruit purchases between Hardin and Skibbes at Oak Park. I would buy more from Henry's Farm and Beth Ecles's Green Acres if given the opportunity, but then there is Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers. She supplies me with a weekly box, Spring, Summer AND fall. The dead of winter, she's been known to have a stash or two of greenhouse veg for sale. We also get our eggs from her, our chicken, and we still eat from a cow she raised. She opens her farm to me a few times each season, and even has let me work it. Meet her in Steve Dolinsky, the Hungry Hound's, latest video.

No Place Better to Eat - Farm Dinner - Prairie Fruits Farm

KennyZ, an LTHer really has my number. Not that long ago my wife and I went to a food based event presented by the Shriver Center that we learned of from Kenny. Kenny and I are also charter members of the Mado fan club. I had my first Mado meal with him. When Kenny told me about a farm dinner at Prairie Fruits Farm, I think he knew I'd jump at the idea. We had a near ideal dinner on the prairie the other night. (The night also very much possible by the gracious sitting of my parents.)

Prairie Fruits Farms is the off-spring of Wes Jarrell and Leslie Cooperband. As they say on their site, they moved from urban and academic life, to life on the farm. They raise goats, producing farmstead goat cheeses, and they grow fruits including peaches and berries. They are especially committed to local foods. Beyond selling their fresh fruits, they are looking for ways to offer their produce year round through canned goods, freezing and perhaps drying. They also realized that nothing showcases local foos more than eating local food, and there is no place better for eating local food than feet from where it grew (at least some of the meal). Hence the farm dinners. I should also add that at this was a bargain at $65/BYOB.

The night began with very refreshing mason jars of tea made with the farm's peaches and black currents. The day started out cool, but near dinner time, it felt more like Illinois August. The tea fixed a parched throat. With the tea went assorted nibbles. They grilled cheese sandwiches of their Little Bloom on the Prairie goat milk cheese, then accented it with peach chutney and farm harvested honey. They fried squash flowers plus tiny squash, the blossoms stuffed with the freshest of chevre.

Our last pre-bites: corn cakes with andouille sausage from Stan Schute's Triple S Farms with a roasted green chili relish. This could have been a great dinner here.

Momentarily satiated, Wes took us on a small farm tour.

We all gathered around Wes's tractor pulpit including the hens that followed us and the goats that wandered in from their pasture, to hear about farm life and cheese production. That was interesting, but the highlight was Wes teaching us how to pick a fresh peach, about as good a taste as we had all night.

That's not to diminish at all the work of Alisa DeMarco, the farm chef.

I'm more of a fan of chunky gazpacho, but I cannot complain in the least of this pureed version, its strong tomato essence highlighted with a good kick of garlic and touch of hot pepper. Dinner came in large platters. For all the talk of slow food conviviality at the dinner, we went after the food with much gusto. Thus, I never got around to capturing the servings. Instead, see what my first helping looked light--I had much more of everything. We all loved the Country Cottage Farm lamb, but really loved the veg including eggplant agrodulce and roasted heirloom potatoes.

After dinner Kenny hit on the one flaw in the night (I have one other quibble, but I'll get to that in a moment). Our tables were oriented so that half the crowd, the unlucky half, faced the still blazin' prairie sun for most of the dinner. It was hot. It would have made more sense to face the tables the other direction. On the other hand, it meant we got to take in the blazin' prairie sun-set without craning our necks.

Of course there was cheese and then dessert.




We had three house cheeses in a range of ages, with little doo-dads of flavors along side such as currents in gin syrup and honey comb. The finish included their peaches and gelato made from their goat milk. My one quibble of the night, the only food touch that did not work for me; I did not much go for the bits of fresh herbs on the peach pie. Of course, I just picked them aside and ate away.

You all should be inspired by KennyZ's idea.

Travel Local

Scheduled Your Staycation?

I found the Learn Great Foods people when I attended the Green Fest last May. I meant to blog about this outfit that led tours of local foods around the Midwest, but then I meant to blog about a bunch of things at the Green Fest (local caramels, how recyclable is Organic Valley packaging). I believe then, as I believe now, that a foodie in good standing should be familiar with his or her food. Visit farms. Know your food. Napa Valley may not be close, but with a bit of effort, you can find a lot of interesting foodstuffs nearby. If you need a guide, Learn Great Foods may help. Moreover, this is the year of the staycation.* Monica Eng's enjoyed her trip to Northwestern Illinois with the Learn Great Foods folks:

In the morning we wake to the sound of songbirds and the intoxicating smell of raspberry cream cheese coffeecake. I wander onto the second-floor veranda, where Fern has left a pot of hot coffee and two mugs. I sip and sway on the porch swing looking over the Prairie Path's 36 acres of wood and fields that provide fruits and vegetables for Fern's lavish brunches.

Before breakfast we head downtown (about five blocks away) to catch the Mt. Carroll Farmers Market. We meet David Seger, an 87-year-old shiitake mushroom grower whose Seger's Tree Farm near Thompson is a stop on another LGF tour.

We score a sack of fresh mushrooms, banana cake and a loaf of wheat bread from a vendor who says she had milled Amish wheat for the bread flour that morning. I'm such a sucker for stories like that.

Is that not another reason I've always been a fan of Monica as well as always been a bit jealous [ed., except for the cuy and the eating of everything at Taste of Chicago?].

*Word of the year candidate

Chicago Area Farmer's Markets

Via my little friend, Stat, I know that there's several hits each day to this site on the phrase, "Chicago Area Farmer's Markets". Google brings them to a post from last year, with a link to last year's Chicago Tribune's listing of markets. So, as a public service to all those who find their way here looking for Chicago area farmer's markets; this is the best listing I know. It covers markets all over the Chicago area, not just city markets, and it also lists markets downstate.

I like all farmer's markets, but I can pick a favorite: the Saturday market at Oak Park, a true buyers market, with a full array of organic, local meat, and variety. I'm not immune to the charms of the Wednesday and Saturday Green City Market, especially for the chance to visit Green Acres Farms and Kinnikinnick, two farms not at Oak Park. On the other hand, Sunday's Logan Square market has some otherwise hard to find farmers, most using organic practices. Downtown shoppers can do no worse than Tuesday's Federal Plaza or Thursday's Daley Plaza; the Daley Plaza featuring my pal, Robin "Winter" and the not seen enough Illinois based Midwest Organic Farmer's Coop. Don't avoid the Hyde Park market if you live there. Mr. Ellis spends all winter cracking his black walnuts for you, and there's Indiana raised pastured pork.

I'm all for helping my friends like Jim the Vinegar guy and the market he organized this year at the Hines VA Hospital, but on the other hand, I am impressed with lecture series at the Eli's Cheesecake market. I'm all for helping emerging markets including my friend Loretta and her Maywood (twice a month) Saturday market as well as emerging markets I have no personal connection to like Englewood and Bronzeville. This Evanston market needs support and it serves the added purpose of being an evening market. That other market in Evanston, on Saturday's, I hear it's nice, it's the only place to sample the organic veg from Henry's Farm, but it's been years since I've been. 'nother one I hear is nice and I really need to get to, is the organically focused Geneva Thursday Green Market (What's with Thursdays!).

Gosh getting to them, look at the links, the directory. I bet you'll find a good market to shop, they're all over the place. Let me end, with the this little quote from the old Chicago area farmer's market post:

Buying locally grown food supports our independent farmers, preserves open land from development--and fresher food is better for you," said Veronica Resa, media relations specialist and community relations liaison for the Mayor's Office of Special Events.

Eat Local Meat

Buy Cow

At least one person has asked me about purchasing a local cow, and I know at least a few more of you have at least thought about it. Buying a whole, 1/2 or 1/4 cow is the best way to ensure a good stock of local meat at a reasonable price. I'll confess/warn you need a full sized freezer to fit a 1/2 cow, but you can get by, maybe with a regular freezer and a 1/4 cow. Not only will you save money, but you'll have access to head-to-tail eating. This was one of the best cooking ideas I've ever seen! This particular cow is all grass fed and grass finished, but other than that, I cannot speak to is deliciousness. I post this only as a public service.

Prairierth Farm of Atlanta, IL (Dave Bishop) has one head of cattle ready for processing in a few weeks that is certified organic, grass-fed, and grass-finished. He's hoping to sell 1/4 or 1/2 sides and would be glad to discuss price and delivery/pickup options. Better yet, get some friends together and buy the whole thing! He's a member of the Midwest Organic Farmers Cooperative and grows a wide variety of certified organic produce and grains, in addition to about two dozen head of cattle and a few dozen chickens. Contact Robin at robininwinter @ aol.com if you'd like to be put in touch with Dave.

I'm Not Bitter - Blogday

I am NOT motivated to blog all day by my bitterness towards all things Chicago Tribune. I mean if I refuse to look at the paper this morning, the Cubs might have won yesterday. Besides, does Gerry Smith know I'm a Tribune vendor. It's just with the holiday and all, I'm very behind in my blogging. I've been blinded by bitterness, but I've got lots to say.

First, some link love. I hope you all have seen MikeG's video on local, the guy with the passion for roof tops and roof top gardens as well, Bruce, now has a blog. Check it out.

Other things that should show up today or soon:

Eli's Cheesecake hosts a farmer's market on Thursdays. They are also hosting a series of lectures on local food related topics (a series that seems to have slipped by everyone's radar). Last week Lloyd Nichols spoke. Next week it's Terra Brockman of the Land Connection.

Bitterness aside, I don't buy this quote from the CTrib's article

"Illinois does not have a lot of local vegetable producers, so when you go to farmers markets you see folks from Wisconsin and Michigan," Slama said. "It's a regional approach if you still consider yourself someone who eats primarily local food."

It is true that when you go to farmer's markets in the Chicago area you will find farmer's from Michigan like Hardin Farms, who grow the best stone fruits or Walt Skibbies with an outstanding selection of apples and pears, but when it comes to vegetables, market shoppers are most likely to find Nichol's Farm at their market. They can also buy vegetables from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers, Henry's Farm, Kinnikinnick Farm, Sandhill Organic; there's the Midwest Organic Farmer's Coop that Robin "Winter" fronts at Daley Plaza; hell there's City Farm who show up each week to the Logan Square Farmer's Market. And speaking of Logan Square, what about Farmer Rob and his Montalbano Farm. He's also at the Ridgeville Market in Evanston that needs your love. Of course, maybe you are not a market shopper, there's that small outfit out of Illinois serving the CSA needs of many, called, um, Angelic Organics. I could go on, but I have other things to not blog about.

Scotch Hill Farms, who oddly enough, are in Wisconsin, but show up at the Oak Park Farmer's Market, are seeking interest in a milk and cheese CSA. The CSA, with a delivery at Oak Park, would provide high quality local products such as Sugar River Dairy yogurt. Stop by their stand and tell Tony or Dela you are interested.

I've had Mado on the mind for reasons that will be revealed some other time, but 'cause of that, my wife and I decided to dine there last night. It's been good before, quite, good, but last night was the best meal so far. Still, despite Rob's promises, they're not serving bread. I'm not bitter about that either.

No, grapes are not in season yet, but the market is awash in new products. Concentrate now on the products with the most fleeting of season. Chad Nichol's tricked us into buying fava beans with this clever conceit, he grilled them for us. We bought a pound and a half. Unlike last year, the Chicago area locavore has apricots to eat. Grab 'em now.

Besides apricots and favas, we keep on getting other local foods, including a whole half-a hog (which my wife did a masterful job of squeezing it into the freezer). I'll be updating the inventory soon.

Hey you, don't eat local. Instead of a year on a 100 mile diet, try a lifetime of reasonable eating.

I have infusions to write about and pics from a lavish Shabbat dinner, but until all that, go read Valeree's blog, it's very good. She's not the least bit bitter.

Local Science

Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers


I came to know and admire Farmer Vicki because of the outreach she does at Hatch Elementary School in Oak Park. I've also been a big buyer of her stuff at the Oak Park and Green City Farmer's markets because she has some of the fairest prices around. Still, I would not be such a proponent of Farmer Vicki if her produce did not taste good. It does. So, I was a bit surprised to see this is her weekly CSA e-mail:

This year we have begun a new fertility program through AgriEnergy. I have wanted to try this program that is based on scientific data, but never felt we could afford it previously. They begin with a soil sample from all fields. Following analysis they mix specific fertilizers to meet the specific soil requirements. This is a dry formula. Then we have two different liquid mixes that we can run through the irrigation. One is beneficial microrganisms to build soil health and vitality and the other is a fertilizer based in fish emulsion, kelp, guano, and chicken manure. All their products are organic and Omri approved. So, my request is to add your input to my observations on weather our crops this summer are improved as a result. I have always used an organic mix, but never with such specifics. It has always just been a generic blend.

I guess part of me sez don't mess with success. I also applaud her inovation and desire to be the best. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

What's In Season Now - Ramps!

Guest Blogger David the Hat Hammond Blogs the Rampfest

About the first thing to arrive in the ground around these parts are ramps, and man about town, David Hammond happened to be there as they sprouted. He contributed a report to WBEZ's 848 on the annual Rampfest at Spence Farm, and he also agreed to write a post for the blog.

Rummaging for Ramps

Ramps are funny vegetables. They’re the first tender premonitions of springtime, delicate, yet resistant to being torn from the still cool earth. As Marty Travis of Spence Farm explained, “You have to get under them,” with a shovel or spade, and work them up gently, or they break and you’re left with a fistful of greens.

Travis is one of the coolest guys I’ve met in a long time. Supplier to Frontera/Topolobampo, Vie and many other higher-end Chicagoland restaurants, Marty is an unassuming man who speaks with simplicity and gentleness that reflects the rolling land of a farm that’s been in his family since 1830.

Every year for the past few, Travis has worked with Terra Brockman of the Land Connection to host a ramp dig, which is now a major attraction among chefs who come to get their hands dirty ripping up ramps and reconnecting with the source of the food they serve their patrons.

After a few hours of ramping, there’s a farm lunch that’s about as wonderful as one could imagine. Some of the area’s most adventurous chefs bring in favorite dishes in an unspoken, gentlemanly competition to shine in a room of some of the brightest culinary minds. From Frontera, there was incredibly tender and subtly piquant roast pork with fresh tortillas; from Vie, full flavored pate, brilliantly crisp housemade pickles and goat butter pound cake. There were many other miraculous contributions, but perhaps the most memorable sensation was the feeling that these chefs were coming together to make great food but also to rediscover and reconnect with the source of that food.

Like I said, ramps are funny. Fresh from the ground, they are almost unpleasantly strong tasting, a kind of vibrant hybrid of garlic and onion, aggressively green. Cut into, say, an egg salad and kept a day, they lose their anger at being ripped out of the earth so young, and gain a subtle tang that makes them a special and pleasing, though transient, taste of spring.

Some pix from the dig, courtesy of the Hat:

Paul and Janet Virant, ramping

Dean Zanella of 312 Chicago, along with a coterie of other ramp-loving chefs, cleaning the leek-like shoots

Goat butter pound cake

Goat, done birria-style

Farmer Blog

Harmony Valley

The farmers at Harmony Valley Farm in Wisconsin have taken to the blogisphere. Some interesting stuff on how organic, year-round farming works. Harmony Valley products, especially their ramps, can sometimes be found in Chicago area Whole Foods. You can also stop by their stand at the Dane County Farmer's Market.

Locally Grown With Love and Dedication

Look Who Has a Web Site Now

My favorite farmer, Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers has gone online. Information for ordering from her CSA is on the site and a nice schedule of her forthcoming crops (pdf).