Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Eat Local Meat
As my older daughter's been highjacking the computer--who now knows more about her research topic, SNL, me or her? I never responded to PJ's question in the comments. It's a good question. Where'd the meat in our freezer come from.
3 or so years ago, when we starting eating local, our local was not quite as local. We ate some local meat, but we balked a bit at the price of some of the meat being sold at the farmer's markets. We just were not ready to pay that much for all of our meat. Buying meat in bulk has been a real Godsend. We had the chance to purchase 1/4 of a heard of cattle raised by Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers. Nearly a year later, we are still eating that cow. We also have 1/2 lamb that we purchased from the Wettstein's. The per pound price for bulk meat makes it a lot more affordable. Getting the meat that way has ensured us that much more of our diet is local.
Genesis Growers is not a viable source right now for meat. There are plenty of options though. The Farm Direct site lists tons of farms in Illinois that sell local meat. The site includes the Wettstein's who sold us our lamb as well as Arnold Meat and Farm Direct Black Angus who sell at Robin's winter markets. See below.
Local meat is very doable.
Winter's Just a Market Away
March is not without its local. Really.
Winter Farmers Markets this Weekend!
Saturday, March 15 ~ Lemont
Saturday, March 15 ~ West Loop Gate/Chicago
Sunday, March 16 ~ Elgin
in Lemont at
St. Alphonsus Parish
www.st-als.org
210 E Logan St
(Corner of Logan St & State St)
in the West Loop Gate neighborhood of Chicago at
Epiphany Episcopal Church
www.epiphany-chicago.org
201 S Ashland Ave
(Corner of Ashland & Adams)
~ 3 ~
in Elgin at
Unitarian Universalist Church of Elgin
www.uuce.org
39W830 Highland Ave
(about 3 miles West of Randall Road-Hwy 34)
Last Thursday I had the chance to forage for the market with Robin. What thanks we owe her! I imagine she'll have this same sorta stuff this weekend:
Cheese, in a variety of flavors Yogurt, in a variety of flavorsHoney in a variety of flavors
Organic lettuce, kale & chard
Organic herbs (basil, dill, sage, oregano, parsley)
Spicy greens & shoots
Organic Yukon Gold potatoes
Fresh mushrooms (several varieties)
Onions & shallots
Jams & preserves
Apple & pear butters
Goats’ milk soaps in heavenly scents & fun shapes
Infused vinegars & dried herbs
Organic wheatberries & several varieties of milled flours
Maple & sorghum syrups
Fair trade coffee, chocolate & tea
Fair trade organic olive oil from the Palestinian region
Eat Local Now
Again, thanks Colin for giving me the space in your paper. The ability to keep me appearing sane speaks well (very) for your editing skills. All the people stopping by, have you added some local to your diets this week?
March may not seem like the best time to start eating local, but the budding localvore can find it with not that much effort.
- Shop at one of the winter markets Robin works so hard to pull-off. There will be three this weekend. I will post details soon.
- There's always apples, mushrooms, onions and potatoes.
- Drink local milk. I think I'm too young to remember the way milk "was supposed to taste." I think it tastes a lot like Kalona Organic, milk you need to shake (non-homogenized). You can find this at Whole Foods and many speciality markets.
- Eat local cheese. That's not a hard one, finding say a big block of yellow cheddar from Wisconsin. Consider, however, one of the grand cheeses from our area, a Roth Kase Private Reserve, a tub of Driftless fresh sheep's milk cheese from Hidden Springs Creamery or the Carr Valley stuff nestled away at your neighborhood Costco.
- Come Thursday, shop the local superstore in Geneva. Pick up some of your local cheeses from Rob at Curds and Whey.
- Talk local with Cassie at her Green Grocer. She'll stock you up on all things local you did not even know about.
- Order local. Irv and Shelly's Freshpicks have 24 (!) local produce items for sale this week as well as local meat, lamb, eggs, yogurt, etc., etc., etc.
- Try a seasonal beer. Spring crops are still (very) far way, but we have Spring beers like Capitol Brewery's Maibock and Leine's Big Butt Dopplebock.
- Take pride in your pork. Nueske hams and bacon from Wisconsin are excellent and from Iowa probably comes as good a prosciutto as you will find (La Quercia).
- Splurge local. Some chefs give the ol' "we use local when" spiel. Some chefs really do use local, and then there's Chef Paul Virant who has made his restaurant, Vie, in Western Springs a beacon for fine dining and local eating. Want to know how good it is, try his creamy farm eggs or local lamb.
- Dream local. While you are waiting for the farmers markets to get going and onions do not sound appealing anymore as a vegetable, visit the web sites of some restaurants that pride themselves on their local and seasonal cooking. Fergus Henderson only cooks whats ready, and his whole beast ethos is true to the Eat Local movement. Dan Barber is lucky enough to have his own farm to create from. And all localvores need to check in weekly on the menus at Chez Panisse.
- Believe local. Alice Waters may be serving a spring vegetable ragout this week, but Larry Russo in St. Paul and Tory Miller in Madison are working right now with almost all Midwest local products. On the Eat Local Challenge Blog you can find a bunch of others who embrace their local eating.
Sunday, March 09, 2008
Eat Local in the News
I hope you all had a chance to read the piece I did for the Chicago Tribune this week. Thanks to Colin and Monica for the opportunity. I read great (better) with editors.
For the many people dropping by for the first time, sorry I could not put up something interesting today. My daughter was glued to the computer for a school project.
For those looking to learn more, check out some of the sites to your right, especially the Eat Local Challenge Blog, which I contribute.
Friday, March 07, 2008
Wednesday, March 05, 2008
What's Local at Whole Foods, River Forest - Now!
Ok, I'll post later on the number we did at Whole Foods, River Forest, but if you happen to be near there and are reading this, Wednesday afternoon, please go do some shopping. Today, today, Whole Foods, River Forest, is donating 5% of your purchases to West Suburban PADs. All the stuff you wanted at Whole Foods that you thought, well, maybe, today's the day to get it. You have several hours. Shop. Now.
Winter's Just a Market Away
Sunday, March 9 ~ Park Ridge
~ 1 ~
S A T U R D A Y
10 A.M. TO 2 P.M.
Winter Farmers Market & Café
in the Beverly neighborhood at
Beverly Unitarian Church
http://www.beverlyunitarian.org/
10244 S Longwood Dr (in the Castle)
(Northwest corner of 103rd St. and Longwood Dr., a few blocks East of Western Ave.)
~ 2 ~
S U N D A Y
10 A.M. TO 2 P.M.
Winter Farmers Market & Brunch
in Park Ridge at
Park Ridge Community Church
http://commch.park-ridge.il.us/
100 S. Courtland Ave.
(in the triangle created by Courtland Ave, Prospect Ave, and Park Place)
I hit the winter market last Saturday in Chicago's Austin neighborhood. I filled my environmentally friendly canvas bag to the brim with several types of herbs, balsamic vinegar, a few heads of lettuce, the days only supply of radishes, two types of cheese and locally roasted coffee from Blue Max.
Here's what you should find at this week's market:
Cheese, in a variety of flavors (NEW this week Fresh Mozzarella!)
Yogurt, in a variety of flavors
Honey in a variety of flavors
Organic lettuce, kale & chard
Organic herbs (basil, dill, sage, oregano, parsley)
Spicy greens & shoots
Organic Yukon Gold potatoes
Fresh mushrooms (several varieties)
Onions & shallots
Jams & preserves
Apple & pear butters
Goats’ milk soaps in heavenly scents & fun shapes
Pet products
Raw wool and rovings (Park Ridge only)
Mattress toppers*, comforters* & wool batting (Park Ridge only)
Bath & body products
Infused vinegars & dried herbs
Organic wheatberries & several varieties of milled flours
Wool yarn & woolen goods
Maple & sorghum syrups
Beautiful fruit tarts & cakes by the Sisters of Fraternite Notre Dame
Fair trade coffee, chocolate & tea
Fair trade organic olive oil from the Palestinian region
Opportunities to learn about CSAs (community supported agriculture) and purchase your subscription for this summer
And much, much more!
Tuesday, March 04, 2008
Inventory
(last inventory report)
I was thinking this morning, what happens to the potatoes in our attic when (if?) the weather warms. It's been a great storage spot, but its days are numbered. We did manage to remove all of the roots from the attic last week, cooking the last of our turnips and beets--with about a 2:1 ratio of usable to spoiled. Reasonably, the end of February should be the end of stored roots. I think we carried the stuff about as long as possible; plus, it's time to eat something else. The question is what? Updates to what's there (excluding freezer goods) in italics:
Cranberries - two packages no change
Pie pumpkins - 1 - no change
Celery - about 2/3rd of a head, usable for cooking - a few stalks hanging in
Herbs - rosemary, thyme, parsley - Added! - oregano, mint, cilantro
Winter squash - about six including acorn, delicata, turban and butternut - no change
Keeper onions - good stock - Added 10 lbs, so onions are fine
Sweet potatoes - low stock - no change
Garlic - about 20 heads - used up a few heads, so maybe 18. On the other hand, I did find some garlic in a different spot, so we had more than I thought
Cabbage - 3 heads of white cabbage, one head red; the whites have varying states of decay - Used 2 white, the worst of the white is still there, I'm not sure why I'm keeping it.
Sunchokes - 2 lbs - This we eat when there is nothing left (?)
Carrots - low stock - Used our 3 large carrots from Freshpicks, very limited stock
Parsnips - low stock - Used about 4; we have more parsnips than carrots
Beets - very low stock, about six usable beets - Used all the beets
Turnips - very low stock, about four usable turnips - Used these turnips*
Potatoes - very good stock - Used some, but stock remains strong
Apples - medium stock - Purchased 3 lbs of Michigan red delicious, but used them all in "Project Sandwich" lunches. Significant dent in apple population in bungalow**
Lettuce - 1 bag of mixed greens, one head of boston lettuce (non-local) - Existent lettuce finished, purchased two bags of aquaponic lettuce at last week's winter market.
Microgreens - 1/2 bag of sunflower shoots - Existing sprouts eaten, purchased peashoots at winter market; sunflower shoots at Whole Foods.
Mushrooms - cremini, mixed oyster/shitake (cultivated) - Used existing mushrooms, purchased new mushrooms at winter market.
Celery root - 2 lbs - no change
Purchased radishes at winter market, but ate them, with their greens last night.
*Roots resurrected: I found two turnips in the back of our vegetable bin this morning. Sprouting yes, but still usable.
**For a change of pace, we went heavy on non-local fruit this week. We purchased blood oranges and honeybells at Trader Joe's, and we got a good deal on bananas at the wholesaler. We purchased two bunches of bananas there (which still have not ripened since last Thursday).
Monday, March 03, 2008
What's In Season Now - Chicagoland - March
Those interested in last month's What's In Season, see here.
Every week come Monday, I check the Chez Panisse web site--it's always updated for the week ahead by Monday. I surely appreciate Alice Water's approach to eating, so her menus are inspirational in that sense. I also check to get an idea of what's in season. Not what's in season for me...
This month, we will not see local asparagus, peas or green garlic, all items on her menu this week. We do have a couple of interesting items this month. March is generally maple syruping time in the Midwest. Here's a listing of some maple festivals (some were last weekend, sorry!). In addition, those little wild onions that gave Chicago its name, ramps (try Google), will begin their short season in March. Read about past ramp digs at Spence Farm here and here, and consider the Rampfest on March 28.
Beef, lamb, chicken, pork - Winter markets; farm direct, Cassie's Green Grocer, Freshpicks.com
Grains - Winter markets, farm direct
Eggs - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery, Cassie's Green Grocer, Freshpicks.com
Farm raised tilapia - Winter markets
Farm raised rainbow trout - Grocery
Great Lakes fish - pike, whitefish, pearch, white bass, lake trout, carp - Grocery, speciality stores
Microgreens, sprouts and related - Winter markets, Freshpicks.com, grocery
Lettuces - Winter markets, farm direct
Carrots - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Potatoes - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery, Freshpicks.com
Apples - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery
Herbs - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Mushrooms - Winter markets, Grocery, Cassie's Green Grocer, Freshpicks.com
Onions - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery
Burdock root - Freshpicks.com
Horseradish - Freshpicks.com
Radish - Winter markets (limited quantity)
Friday, February 29, 2008
Cabbies, There's a New Joint in Town
Actually, the cabbies have more than discovered the recently opened, clean, well-lit space, Tabaq. Maybe the word got out because of the ample parking on this stretch of Clybourn just north of Division. Maybe word just got out on the good food being offered. Maybe, maybe, cabbies are going upscale. Cabbie joints, foodie-speak for a kinda places that are a) roughly convenient to the drivers who mostly found themselves around downtown; b) met their gustatory needs for Indian-Pakistani style food; and c) could serve as a bit of a hangout. A corner tap rolled into a diner rolled into an afterwork hangout. The cabbie joint promised the foodie exceedingly authentic food of the sub-continent, but often with a dose of danger. Well, slight danger in the sense that the joints, operating near but not in downtown, were in, well, let's call them non-pedestrian friendly zones. Really, the danger lay in their foreignness, their clubbiness, it was walking into someone else's world. But a funny thing happened on the way to eating pleasure. First, these locations no longer seemed so threatening. Second, it was soon learned that one's clientele was quite enjoyed by the cabbie joint staff. Eat bubbala we were told.
And eat well we did. Kababish, on Orleans a few blocks north of Chicago offered one of the best versions of fish taco around (masala dusted fish, fried to order, served with fresh made chapati and garnished with a mysterious brown sauce). Kababish is now closed. Into the breach steps Tabaq. Whereas Kababish had four booths, Tabaq has seating for about 80. The whole place is decorated in the type of thick, shiny plastic that's maybe a step up from Ikea. Much more decor than before. Still, it has one of the defining features of these kind of places, a steam table with several curries of the day. In addition to the curries, Tabaq offers grilled items like the beloved Khan on the north side of Chicago.
My wife and I got one of each. I'm a grilled meat a-loving' guy to begin with, and I love their way with meats, the interplay with spices and fire. Seekh kebab, the sausage shaped thing is usually a favorite. After asking about how spicy, the man behind the counter suggested instead, tha chapli kebab. This is a patty shaped, but the meat was thoroughly mixed with flakes of red pepper. I wish I had the camera to show the contrast of near black meat against bright red Chile. For our wet dish, we picked a chicken over a goat, a fish and a ground meat. The jalapeno garnish signfied this was one spicy curry. A nice touch, our server came over and offered us more gravy as we were sopping up the last of the curry. Sopping is thing thing to do here, as this place has some very good naan too. I'm guessing they allowed it to rise a bit longer than most naans. It was thick and yeasty, like a good pizza crust.
The prices are a dollar or two more than the old Kababish. I did not mind in the least. In my maiden visit I found all I want in a cabbie joint. Parking, warmth from the staff and heat from the food. Definitely worth a try.
Tabaq
1245 N. Clybourn
Chicago, IL
9AM - 2AM
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Shop Local
More Stuff for the Winter Markets
As I indicated earlier, Robin did some foraging today. Here's the additions to the market offerings not previously mentioned:
From Erehwon Farm in Elburn: living (potted) lettuce, cilantro, spinach, tiny radishes, spicy greens (very limited quantities of each--these will be at Austin only)
From Heritage Prairie Market Farm in Elburn: broccoli micro-greens, sugar pea shoots
From Ropp Jersey Cheese in Normal: Raw Milk Cheddar Cheese
From River Valley Ranch in Burlington, WI: gorgeous mushrooms this week--big clean white button mushrooms; more cremini than usual, and larger than usual; plenty of shitakes; just a few portabellas; and a few bags of oysters
What's Local at the Restaurant Supply House
Pretty much the same as last visit: Michigan apples, Wisconsin potatoes, Great Lakes whitefish. Add to the list, Wisconsin yellow onions.
I know what will be on our menu a lot the next few months.
New Vie Menu Up
When I dined at Vie a few weeks ago, I was talking black walnut with Chef Virant. He mentioned how expensive they were, yet he still loved them and loved using them on the menu. It turns out that I knew a store in Detroit that had them for 1/2 the price he was paying. He offered me the chance to buy for him, and I'd love to fulfil that deal soon. In the meantime, his latest menu features a bit of non-local that he got his hands on--artichokes show up twice and there's some Meyer lemons too. On the other hand, he has a local lamb combo that sounds ideal and looks like he made good use of Wisconsin's Rushing Water trout.
Winter Market Reminder
Monica Eng notes some of the things you might find this weekend at Robin's winter markets.
Just because the Green City Market has shut down its outdoor and indoor locations for a few months, it doesn't mean farmers market-type organic shopping has to go into hibernation too. With the "Winter Farmers Markets" in local churches, you still can buy organic produce, prepared goods, toiletries, clothes and toys from the makers. When we recently visited one in West Town, we were greeted by more than a dozen vendors, including a young girl spinning wool, a nun selling tarts and baguettes and a grandfatherly character in a fluffy fleece sweater selling products from women's cooperatives. We knew this was going to be crunchy. We immediately picked up a couple of tarts ($3 each) as well as a bag of delicious lemony madeleines ($4), a crusty baguette ($2). Next were a pair of hand-knitted mittens ($16) and an organic yarn goat toy made by a women's cooperative in Kenya ($8). It's not super-cheap, but you will rarely feel so good about spending so much.See here for market details. Note also, Robin's out foraging today, and she might have a few new goodies when she gets back. I'll post an update when I hear more.
Save This Restaurant
This week's CTrib At Play was the Chris Borrelli 'zine. There's pupusas, there's a great piece on Nighthawk diners (hint: Chris, come to me for the follow-up). More importantly, he highlights one of the true treasures of Chicago, Orange Garden Chop Suey (1942 W. Irving Park Rd.). Sure, Chris's experience was like mine every time I visit, awful. This restaurant must be saved no matter. Of course the exterior with its stainless steal sign and red enamel is worth it, and I can see some misguided preservationist stopping there, but the purity of its art deco interior is just as special. This place needs to be landmarked PDQ.
Drink Local
Via Drive Thru:
Binny's South Loop will be hosting a free tasting this Friday from 5pm -8pm of North Shore Distillery Products
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Eat Local Out...Maybe...
Or perhaps. My wife knows my predilication for naming posts playing off of our mantra: Eat Local. So, when our waiter returned a long (long) time to address our question about what exactly was local on the menu with a very specific answer, "Carrie told me to get the hell outta of the kitchen"; I said to my wife, I'll call today's (yesterday's) post "Eat Local Maybe". And she said, "Eat Local Perhaps". The question, of course, was what exactly on the menu was local.
We got the same song and dance we got a few weeks ago at Lula's. "Oh, the chef uses local." "The chef is committed to local..." Then, the scare words, "when possible." We, to compare notes, see how someone else does it, to encourage local eating, to make us feel that much better about our dining choice, wanted to know specifics, and don't be speaking too much in generalities 'cause your menu has red peppers on it. Our waiter, who did not much like the grilling in the first place, he had tables to cover, promised to find out. Which turned into a promise to ignore us through two of our three courses. It came right about the time we started to have misgivings about Naha. But after a poor set of appetizers, the food got much better. We left ready to give Naha and Chef Carrie the benefit of the doubt. For now. Wink, wink.
Naha has been a place we've been meaning to try since the Green City BBQ. How could I not resist a menu with local AND mezze AND pork belly. Triple threat. The new Chicago Restaurant Week gave us the excuse to finally pull ourselves from Vie (although Vie is not open for lunch, so that excuse only goes so far). Restaurant Week means a three course lunch for $21.95. There were two desserts, two appetizers and three main courses, so my partner and I could not quite get the full menu. Our waiter, when he still liked us, helped us pick from the mains, advising us on the duck confit over the fried chicken salad--the other entree, whitefish with pork belly was a given.
It was a good thing he steered us to the duck confit. When I dug into it, after the appetizers and the what local comment, it insta-changed my mood. That good. That good after appetizers that featured creme fraiche that really did little for the oysters and bits of oyster shells that did even less for the oysters and tepid squash soup that tasted more of broth than squash. Then, the whitefish bacon thing, honestly, really, this was, about the best piece of whitefish I've ever eaten. One problem with whitefish, and one reason I think people favor ocean fish, is that whitefish can be on the soft side. This was a nice slab of whitefish, a fish not known for its slabiness, and it was cooked in a way that crisped and firmed it, without losing the fatty sweetness of the freshwater fish. The pork belly did not necessarily add to the experience, in a marriage kinda way, but what the hey, I was not pushing it aside. Desserts kept things on the upswing, a mousse-ish chocolate cake with "black forest cake" ice cream and a coconut tart. If we were not already lovey-dovey towards Naha, they finished us up with good mirgandaise, a tiny pyramid of passion fruit curd on a buttery crust and swatch of opera cake. Naha may not be the localvore luncher's lunch, but it's still a delicious dining experience.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
What's Local at Cassie's Green Grocer
It's good to eat local--look to the right side of this blog for some reasons. And while I do enjoy a certain amount of the effort to eat local, I'd also appreciate less effort too. I want local to come to me a bit more. The new store Green Grocer is bringing local to me. Here in one store, mushrooms from Wisconsin, salsas made in Wisconsin, (and salsas from Wisconsin mushrooms and made in Wisconsin); local eggs, local milk, local lamb, local, local, local [ed., and books on eating local too, no?]. Sure, not everything Cassie sells right now is local, but her focus is local with a capital L. Based on my two visits and my conversations with her, I know the inventory will only get better.
I did not get a lot today, but it was just the kinda things I want/need: Papa Lena's beet chips--put a vegetable and a chip in your kidz lunch at the same time! Bennison's bread (because Evanston's about as easy to get to for me/Oak Park as Madison, WI) and the intriguing Mu Tofu made from Wisconsin soy (read about it here).
Every Week a Market
I don't know how Robin's gonna split herself this weekend, but she has two markets going. Her weekly reminder follows.
Winter Farmers Markets this Saturday!
March 1, 10am to 2pm
Austin/Oak Park & St. Ben’s/North Center
. . . both featuring fresh produce!
~ 1 ~
Winter Farmers Market & Brunch
in the Austin neighborhood at
Third Unitarian Church
301 N. Mayfield Ave. (Corner of Mayfield Ave. & Fulton St., 2 blocks East of Austin Blvd./Oak Park)
Admission is FREE and open to the public
Third Unitarian is near the intersection of Austin Blvd. and Lake St. (CTA Green Line, Austin Stop). From this junction, the church is two blocks east to Mayfield and one block south to Fulton St. Parking is available on Mayfield Ave. and Fulton St.
See complete list of farmers market offerings below
The Brunch will be served during the market while quantities last
Prepared from ingredients purchased from the participating growers
Suggested donation: $8 adults ~ $4 children 10 & under
Mark your calendar!
A final Winter Farmers Market in the Oak Park-River Forest area will be held on
Sun., Mar. 30, at Grace Lutheran Church in River Forest.
~ 2 ~
Winter Farmers Market & Café
in Chicago’s St. Ben’s/North Center neighborhood at St. Benedict Parish Social Hall ~ 2219 W. Irving Park Rd. (corner of Irving Park Rd. and Bell St., a few blocks East of Western Ave.)
Admission is FREE and open to the public
For pre-orders of chicken or hormone-free Black Angus beef
contact Mark or Linda Schramer by 8pm Thursday via email
or phone; go to http://www.farmdirectblackangus.com/ for contact info
(pick-up is at St. Ben’s only)
See more complete list of farmers market offerings below
An a la carte Café will be provided by Sweets by Carolyn featuring made-from-scratch goodies by “baketress” Carolyn Shoaf
Both Winter Farmers Markets
will feature most or all of the following:
· Tilapia (farm-raised in Illinois free of antibiotics, mercury, herbicides, hormones, pesticides and steroids)
· Cheese & yogurt, both in a variety of flavors
· Honey in a variety of flavors
· Organic lettuce, kale & chard
· Organic herbs (dill, sage, oregano, parsley)
· Spicy greens & shoots
· Organic potatoes, red and Yukon gold
· Fresh mushrooms (several varieties)
· Onions & shallots
· Jams & preserves
· Apple & pear butters
· Goats’ milk soaps in heavenly scents & fun shapes
· Pet products
· Angora fibers & felting supplies (Austin only)
· Bath & body products
· Infused vinegars & dried herbs
· Organic wheatberries & several varieties of milled flours
· Wool yarn & woolen goods
· Maple & sorghum syrups
· Beautiful fruit tarts & cakes by the Sisters of Fraternite Notre Dame
· Fair trade coffee, chocolate & tea
· Fair trade organic olive oil from the Palestinian region
· Opportunities to learn about CSAs (community supported agriculture) and purchase your subscription for this summer
· And much, much more!
Meat & poultry will be available in both locations. See the specific information for each location. For best selection, consider pre-ordering as indicated.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Drink Local
I wonder what he thinks of D'Vine's grapey vodka?
One Fine Day
One of the things that I love about a newspaper subscription is its regulatory. Regular, in that it's there every morning (nearly every morning), and regular, what I really like, is the rotation, the features I always follow: Sunday's poker column, Wednesday food section, Thursday's At Play (play the Phil Vettel Game!). For my wife, the best day of the week is Saturday. She gets the soap summary and One Fine Day, perhaps her favorite feature (see here for an example). In the tradition of One Fine Day, I present our latest.
Morning
Magazines and Music, Oak Park Borders (1144 Lake St Oak Park, IL 60301(708) 386-6927) - Saturday is our day to sleep late, and for me, getting out of bed at 8:15 is nicely late. I need that extra bit of sleep because morning coffee gets delayed until Borders. Each Saturday three to six Oak Parkers take over the Northwest corner of the Oak Park Borders cafe. Some carry acoustic guitars, one regular plays a jazzy but muted hollow-body electric (which at least once per morning he solos using an organish effect), one has a mandolin (and does a bit or two with a recorder) and most of the time, there is a woman with an stand up bass. They play a mix of standards and rock. Brief words cannot convey how talented these folks are. They have technique like instructors but also unique and quality vocals, both as solos and as harmonizers. It has to be the best free show around. Listen, read, cafinate.
Afternoon
Fressers rejoice at Manny's (1141 S. Jefferson, Chicago). We time our departure from Borders generally to the musicians, but today we stayed longer awaiting our daughters commencement of her Young Scientist Conference (Dad all morning: "paging young scientists, paging young scientists, please report to lab..."). We are always more than peckish after Borders, but the lunch choices close by are seldom to our tastes. We let our tummies wait just a bit as I drove us to Manny's (love the valet parking!). Mom and Dad split roast beef. Luckily for us, French rare works, and corned beef. Dad splurged on a diet Dr. Browns, while Mom advertised her thrift on a fountain drink, "free re-fills". The kidz split corned beef and chicken.
We now find ourselves joining Binny's to any Manny's visit. The new location, across from Manny's, has a large selection and a decent deli (see side bar) but what makes it worth stopping is their drinks bar. All pour are priced from retail. It's a chance to sample an eighty-five dollar bottle of Calvados for less than ten bucks.
What's Local at Binny,s Across the Street from Manny'sBinny's did not have the local booze we had been seeking. That would be Lush, a few blocks away (1306 S. Halsted, Chicago). As mentioned in Time Out Chicago, Lush sells Death Door Vodka and Death's Door Gin, booze made from wheat grown in one the best places on earth, Washington Island, Wisconsin. Lush also offers wee tastes of booze for free (free!). I'll take that $85 Calvados and raise you a $135 Scotch sample.
Local pork. OK, I counted maybe three local cheeses in their whole selection, and one was Maytag, but there are other cheese stores. What Binny's did have for this localvore were local pork products. Nueske ham, Nueske bacon, good; really good, La Quercia ham, La Quercia guanciale and La Quercia pancetta. Get yourself there as the Quercia proscuiutto was less than $20/lb, a real steal
It's hard to believe anyone needs more food after Manny's, but we can hardly let a visit to this area go by without something sweet. Often, we end up at Ferrara (2210 W. Taylor). And I will guarantee you that every time we go there, my wife will comment at some point, how the Italian pastries in New York are just so much better. I do mostly agree, chauvinist that I am. A Ferrara sfogliatela would be finer if we got them at a different point. Ferrara, however, puts them in a refrigerated case that saps a bit of succor from the pastry. Minor quibble though.
Evening
A One Fine Day should be nobler than four or so of the deadly sins. It should also be a chance to put on a nice suit (sans tie for trendy affect) and cavort with the animals. What I mean is that our day was that much finer because we finished with the Have-a-Heart benefit for West Suburban PADS, the organization that provides emergency shelter and other services to the homeless in the near-Western suburbs. The event was at Brookfield Zoo, and part of the time we got to hang with the giraffes. We noshed, we bid, we listened to the awesome pipes of our Congressman Danny Davis, and watched a tear inducing film about some of the people PADS has helped.
Nothing against finger food noshing, but it's almost de rigour for benefit goers to have a hot dog on the way home, is it not? Pete's (6346 Roosevelt RD, Oak Park) offers a better than average Chicago style dog, even five minutes before their close.
Postscript
If the day was not fine enough, I won an online poker tournment later that night.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Inventory Soup
Our poor kidz, they have a habit of getting the wrong apples from the attic. The other day, one of them brought down some precious Granny Smith's--we must save these for salads or cooking, not mere snacking! After allowing a lunch's worth of apples, I returned the apples to the attic. I had not spent much time with my food lately, and this attic visit gave me time to assess.
Not good.
Or an excuse to make soup. One of the things about storing food for the winter is the tug between using and having. It reminds me of the great MASH episode where Hawkeye and Trapper go searching for an incubator. They find a supply officer with three. They beg for one. "But then I'll only have two", he replies in refusal. Still, with food, food stored in the attic, there is surely a use it or lose it problem. We need to make our food last for a few more months, but if we never get to use it because of spoilage, what's the point. We continue to experience shrinkage.
The recipe (my own!): cube some Nueske slab bacon and render in a strong bottomed stock pot; sweat onions; chop a stalk of pathetic looking celery and add, do the same for woody winter carrot. If you have some garlic and dried local peppers use them for seasoning. While these things soften, peel and quarter the salvageable bits of your turnips. A few russet potatoes can be used too. Fill with water until it looks soupy but not thin. Bring to boil, reduce heat and cook until the vegetables are soft, about an hour (your time may vary). Before serving add pre-cooked wheat berries. Adjust the seasoning. And, and right before serving, chop and add sorrel that's survived admirably in the fridge.
After the soup but before the corned beef, here's the updated inventory: (Two notes, here's the last inventory update to see the progress; here's the freeze/can inventory, which has been separated from the general inventory).
Cranberries - two packages
Pie pumpkins - 1
Celery - about 2/3rd of a head, usable for cooking
Herbs - rosemary, thyme, parsley
Winter squash - about six including acorn, delicata, turban and butternut
Keeper onions - good stock
Sweet potatoes - low stock
Garlic - about 20 heads
Cabbage - 3 heads of white cabbage, one head red; the whites have varying states of decay
Sunchokes - 2 lbs
Carrots - low stock
Parsnips - low stock
Beets - very low stock, about six usable beets
Turnips - very low stock, about four usable turnips
Potatoes - very good stock
Apples - medium stock
Lettuce - 1 bag of mixed greens, one head of boston lettuce (non-local)
Microgreens - 1/2 bag of sunflower shoots
Mushrooms - cremini, mixed oyster/shitake (cultivated)
Celery root - 2 lbs
Additional local stock includes dry beans, grains, dozen eggs
Eat Local Meat
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Every Week a Market
The Winter Farmers Market will feature:Winter Farmers Market
Sunday, February 24 ~ 10am to 2pm
Epworth United Methodist Church, www.epworthumcelgin.org
37W040 Highland Ave., Elgin 60124
(NorthWest Corner of Highland Ave. & Randall Rd.)
Free admission ~ open to the public ~ plenty of parking
- Beef, both grass-fed and grain-fed, all hormone-free*
Pork, grass-fed and hormone-free*
Chicken & turkey, pastured and hormone-free*
Tilapia, farm-raised in Illinois (no mercury!)
Cheeses in a variety of flavors
Infused vinegars & dried herbs
Honey and beeswax products
Fresh, organic lettuce, kale, basil & other herbs
Yogurt
Apple & pear butters
Fresh mushrooms, several varieties
Onions & shallots
Goats’ milk soap in heavenly scents & fun shapes
Chocolate-covered fruit
Spa & beauty products
Jams & preserves
Wool batting for quilts & comforters
Mattress toppers & comforters
Popcorn
Raw Icelandic wool
Wool rovings for felting
Pet soaps & pet beds
A variety of organic milled flours
Wool yarn & knitted items
Maple & sorghum syrups
Fair trade coffee
Fair trade olive oil from the Palestinian region
CSA subscriptions for weekly produce this summer
Beautiful fruit tarts, croissants & more from Fraternite Notre Dame’s patisserie
And much, much more!
Reserve your Easter ham now for delivery in the weeks before Easter!
*Note, an order form for Arnold Meats can be found on the Chicago Locavore's Yahoo site:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/chicagolocavores/
Support these local farm producers, eat locally, and shrink your carbon footprint by purchasing food and other local items that haven’t traveled thousands of miles. Quantities of some products are limited, so shop early!
Ø There will be additional Winter Farmers Markets throughout the Chicagoland area through March of 2008. Coming in the next few weeks:
· Sat., Mar. 1 ~ Third Unitarian Church, Chicago (in the Austin neighborhood, just East of Oak Park) ~ BRUNCH served while quantities last
· Sat., Mar. 1 ~ St. Benedict Parish, Chicago (in the St. Ben’s / North Center neighborhood)
· Sat., Mar. 8 ~ Beverly Unitarian Church, Chicago (in the Castle on the Hill)
· Sun., Mar. 9 ~ Park Ridge Community Church ~ BRUNCH served while quantities last
And we’ll be back in Elgin at Unitarian-Universalist Church of Elgin on Sunday, Mar. 16, open to the public from 1 to 3pm. Go to http://www.localharvest.org/farmers-markets/M19510 for more details on these and other markets.
You Know You Are a Localvore When
When the supplies are dwindling (to be reported anon), what becomes the vegetable side dish? Well, onions of course."Mommy it looks as good as the book", my daughter said, commenting on what we had, not what's posted. That book is Jamie Oliver's Cook With Jamie*. He calls it "The best onion gratin", and he may be right (although until I adopted this whole localvore thing, I did not have much of a history of eating onion gratins). Oliver sez:
Make this gratin and it's bound to be the talk of the meal because its got ballsy flavor and sweetness.It's an easy recipe, as easy as any recipe that uses "glugs" of olive oil. Essentially you "petal" the onion, pour over the glugs of oil, bake covered for 45 minutes, re-bake uncovered for a bit longer, then add creme fraiche and good grating cheeses; he recommends Gruyere and Parmesan, we've used a variety of things around the house including Maytag blue and Wisconsin fontina, the ultimate local version, would be Pleasant Ridge Reserve. After the cheese, bake again until golden.
*Bob's your uncle, Jamie ran me the wrong way in his Naked Chef glory. I was surprised to like and enjoy his Italy show on Travel Channel. Then, just when he got me, he's left me cold with his latest TVFoodnetwork outing. I do like the book.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Vie Pics Posted
Here. Sure, I'm such a Vie-aholic that I would have linked to this post anyways (and even if it was not just my favorite restaurant, the pics are great), but I have the added advantage of actually having been at this meal presented in pixilated glory.
I don't have a lot to add to Ronnie Suburban's post. Not only does he nail the pictures, he nails the spirit of the event.
Vie continues to hit me on such an emotional and spiritual level, it's hard to analyze it. Each time I go there, I'm impressed by the way the dishes build in impact as the meal progresses. At so many other restaurants, after the short, intense burst of flavors provided by the starter courses, the entrees often fail to compel, and the momentum is lost. But at Vie, the exact opposite is true. Yes, the appetizers literally appetize -- hell, they dazzle -- but the inspired, imaginative and satisfying entrees just blow you away. There is no palate fatigue at Vie. Chef Virant and his crew may have the best senses of culinary build and pacing that I have experienced. The menu at Vie changes frequently and while that definitely benefits the diner, it's significant in that seems to be a natural extension of how this crew is constantly pushing themselves to build on what they have already accomplished. When you dine at Vie, you're tapping into the ongoing creative process of a uniquely-talented chef and a kitchen with a truly artistic sensibility. I'm sure customer satisfaction is important at Vie but I get the feeling that no one is harder to satisfy than chef Virant himself.
All I can do is comment around the edges. Since every dish hit home, of the ten or so times I've been to Vie in the last year, this was the best meal, I'll toss off a couple of nitpicks. Truffles on eggs is a great idea; the scrambled eggs fantastic--I'm not quite sure how Vie can do what appears to be a very slow cooked egg in a restaurant setting--but these truffles were not that pungent. OK, I've said my peace.
What's most interesting about Vie right now is the direction that Vie's heading. I'm hardly a fine dining snob. I am not one who seeks innovation for the sake of innovation in my food, nor do I think that the presence of foie gras, lobster, truffles and the such make the experience intrinsically better. But Vie is getting a bit classier in its approach. He's using truffles! The Au Bon Carnard local foie gras, has been on the menu for about a year, in ever changing variations. Now, it's showing up in the ice cream. With Vie, it works for a few reasons.
First, the food remains so tied to local, seasonal, and artesanal. There was nothing we ate the other night that was a "cheat" (beyond the sense that Vie gets fish from non-local waters). Second, the food is so precise, so well executed. They cover the basics so well; the time the fish is on the grill, the way things are fried. Third, as I have noted before, I love the repertoire. The dishes are always familiar but with enough twist to be Virant's. Finally, as Ronnie S notes, its the spirit of the place. Chef Virant walks out of the kitchen in a T Shirt, big smile on his face. Jenny who runs the front of the house is also all smiles. Everyone of the staff I talk to speaks to how much they respect Chef V and enjoy working there. This so much shows up in the dining room. I never worry about Vie getting too big for its britches because it's so comfortable to be there.
Vie
4471 Lawn Ave.
Western Springs, IL 60558
708-246-2082
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
People Want Safe Food
Blogger Julie Deardoff continues the crusade.
Yet, as the largest beef recall in history shows, most of us have no idea where--or from whom--our food is coming. And because we're disconnected from the process and the environment, we no longer eat intuitively or instinctively. Instead we read confusing labels, we listen to marketers, we look for so-called "health claims" and we follow diet plans. We rely on a mechanized system of food production that is not in sync with the earth; it relies on synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and genetic modification.
Eat local.
Order Local - Order Arrives
Just yesterday I was saying that a Chicago based localvore needs to set aside and preserve to maintain local year round eating. Luckily, there are some options to enhance and supplement the larder. I was glad when a commenter got me to explore Irv and Shelly's Fresh Picks. Here waiting on my computer was a source for certain local foods in the worst time of year. I made an order.

The lettuce, which I'll get back to, obscures some of the order. Essentially, I ordered everything they had last week advertised as local.
- Boston lettuce
- Carrots
- Horseradish
- Cremini mushrooms
- Red cabbage
- Burdock root
- Arugula
- Brussel sprouts (outta stock)
- Limes (I needed a dollar's worth of something to push my bill over the $35 minimum)
When I first went through the stuff, I was mostly happy. The advertised six ounces of arugula looked like about 10 ounces--I mean it was a generous pour. My wife on the other hand, grr'd a bit at the carrots; she has a thing against chubby carrots. Actually, we both grr'd a bit at the horseradish, because, here instead of chubby, it was about six pencils of horseradish. We've never seen horseradish this skinny, and this was a bit galling because the site does not include an image of the horseradish. Still, it seemed A-OK. It was only after we examined the enclosed invoice that our grr turn more to growl.
As I have advertised before, our family is not one of extreme. We do not eat from within 100 miles, nor do we make sure that everything that goes in our mouths is local. I mean our order included limes for Pete's sake. Our rules are, however, that if it grows around here, then we will only eat it from local sources. It turns out that that generous helping of arugula and those healthy heads of lettuce came from somewhere, not here, not local, as recorded on the invoice and confirmed by Shelly in an e-mail. We aint gonna toss the produce, but we did feel a bit gypped. After the peril we went through to get local in Madison a few weeks ago, we expected a soft landing from Fresh Picks.
I'm not too angry though. Soft landing is good. How unhappy can I be with a source that delivers local, at least some local to my house in the middle of February. Really. Take away the lettuce and arugula, and it is still a robust inventory of local this time of year.* It beats the heck out what's local at Whole Foods. Shelly mentioned in her e-mail that I can stipulate in my order form that I only want local, so no trayf accidentally shows up at my door. I'd also say, that overall, I prefer market shopping. It's not just looking over the carrots and horseradish; it's that interaction with the vendors and shoppers and French Nuns. That's what got me into eating local. Yet, the markets only go so far this time of year, and Fresh Pick's serves a very needed need. I will surely order again, soon.
A word on price, local and organic food is not particularly cheap, e.g., $2.75/lb for carrots. Fresh Pick's prices are about in line for what one would pay at a farmer's market or Whole Foods, give or take, depending on the product. There is a $35 minimum order, at least to Oak Park, which I did not find unreasonable, and was a bit surprised that I had to lime to reach. The delivery charge was $5.50 to Oak Park, which, again, I did not find unreasonable. Cheap as the hotel we found via Hot Wire in Madison, it was more than $5.50.
*I did not buy quite everything local on their site last week. Other local products available were potatoes, a few kinds, and various sprouty-micro things.
Monday, February 18, 2008
Eat Local Later
(updates below)
Editor's note: During the summer months, this list included items set aside in the larder such as beans and onions, but during the rest of the year, this list will only include reports on items canned, frozen or dried.
Eating local in a place like Chicago requires a certain amount of advanced planning. I'm a hoop house a-lovin' kinda guy, but they really cannot supply my family's produce needs in the winter. One must preserve the harvest. Some of that preserving is just putting stuff away, and I've been tracking that stuff since December. I have not, however, done a good job of keeping a running tally of food that we have canned or froze (we have one full size freezer and the freezer halves to two refrigerators). In fact when I mentioned to my wife that I've been recording the inventory, she said, "great I've needed to know what's in the freezers."
"Um", I sheepishly had to reply, "that's not what I've been inventorying." Until now. With the fact that my wife froze all the cranberries that she did not use in last week's dessert, I will now track what we are preserving. For the most part, I am not going to retroactively update this listing with what's in the freezers now, but I've listed some of the food that I know is there. As to canned goods, I'm only gonna add right now, what we have canned ourselves. We also have a variety of local jams, jellies, pickles, etc., even some local Amish canned chicken [ed., just in case?] also lying around. (So much jelly and related that we have a moratorium on buying new.)
Freezer Inventory
- Cranberries - 2/15/08
- Beef from our 1/2 cow - cuts left include ground meat, tongue - Update: have eaten some of the strip steaks, more burger, much shank and short ribs, although we have more of both; the entire brisket; sirloin steaks (6/27/08); rib steaks (7/08); 2 lbs burger (7/25/08) flank steak (8/13/08) 2 lbs burger (8/28/08); liver 9/08; 4 lbs burger (LTHForum picnic); strip steaks (9/08) 2 lbs burger 9/08; rib roast (10/1/08) -- A somewhat greater effort to eat the older meat; 2 lbs burger (10/08); rib eye steaks (10/31/08)
- Lamb from our 1/2 lamb - cuts left include leg, rack, shanks, all offal - Update: Used 1/2 of the leg
- Pork including chops and ground
- Poultry including capon, duck and chicken - Update: Current status: have two chickens from our Genesis Growers CSA
- Greens - Update - Some used some during winter 08
- Broccoli - Update: Much but not all was eaten during late winter, early Spring 08; froze several stalks of broccoli on 10/24/08
- Green beans
- Cauliflower - Update: Some eaten
- Peas - Update: Some eaten - Peas added 6/21/08 & 6/28/08 & 7/5/08; used a bag of peas on 10/28/08
- Corn - Update: 12 ears of corn frozen Aug 08
- Rhubarb
- Sour Cherries
- Apple Sauce
- Asparagus
- Strawberries -
- Blueberries - added 7/1/08
- 1/2 hog, see here for details, less 15 lb shoulder roast and 4 bone-in chops - 7/5/08
- Peaches - 7/28/08
- Blueberries - 8/8/08
- Peaches, peeled - 8/15/08 and 8/22/08
- Crowder peas - 8/17/08 - About half have been subsequently eaten
- Tomato concentrate - 8/25/08
- Peaches - 9/08
- Red peppers - 10/31/08
- Habenero peppers - 11/24/08
Canned Goods
- Peach jam
- Blueberry preserves
- Pickled green beans
- Pickled ramps - done ca. late May 2008
- Tomatoes - 8/21/08
- Spiced peaches - 8/23/08
- Tomatoes - 8/26/08
- Peach chutney - 8/27/08
- Tomato puree - 8/29/08
- Tomato sauce - 9/2/08
- Tomatoes - 9/08
Semi-Preserved (i.e., meant to last but not sealed)
- Caponata - 6 quarts - 8/18/08; Update: have eaten 2 quarts
- Red peppers in vinegar - 10/25/08
- Red pepper in oil - 10/25/08
- Marinated beets - 10/31/08
- Oven roasted delicata squash - 11/1/08 - Consumed
- Brussels sprouts, shredded - 11/1/08 - Consumed
- Tomatillo salsa
Dried
- Oven dried tomatoes - 9/5/08
- A second batch, oven dried tomatoes - 9/08
- Red chili peppers - 11/2/08
Pickled but not sealed
- Mixed middle eastern style - carrots, broccoli, cabbage, jalepenos, red bell pepepr - 10/29/08
Eat Local Resource
From comments, I learned about Nina's Eat Local Chicago Yahoo Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/chicagolocavores/ . It has a great collection of links; farms, CSAs, local meat and various related items. The message board is a little slow so far, but I'm sure we can spice things up soon!
People Want Safe Food
It seemed like only last week that the CTrib was editorializing about the need to eat local for food safety. Was this story in the works:
WASHINGTON - The U.S. Department of Agriculture announced Sunday that a California meatpacking company had launched the recall of 135 million pounds of beef -- the largest meat recall in U.S. history -- following questions about the company's treatment of cattle that were slaughtered even though they could not stand up.
Now, I have two obvious reactions to this article, that is reactions after I decide to blog it. First, could not one argue that this meat was local to someone, someone in California. Is it really an eat local issue? Second, and kind of the flip side issue, one of the stock counters to eat local generally; that is, a processor, this processor, may have had issues, but only through mass/factory production can the population be fed. Together, these issues draw together the complaints that eating local is elitist, expensive and unrealistic. Yet, the very nature of the recall suggests needed change.
I am, first of all, unconvinced that we need industrial agriculture to feed the world. Our agriculture land presently is poorly utilized. So much of it is turned over to corn-soy when it can be used to farm consumer products. Then, you have my favorite idea of converted brownfields and urban agriculture. Food (at least a lot of it) cannot be outsourced. Places like Chicago, Milwaukee, Cleveland and Detroit (especially the latter two) have land that's not good for much else these days. Farm it. I believe the trend is going to be toward bringing food closer to the people. We do not need factory farming that is so prone to careless standards to keep hunger away.
Yet, that gets to the other question here. This operation was local to someone, was it not. Is there any inherent connection between food safety and local? I believe so, believe so for a few reasons. First of all, eating local as an exercise tends to (should) bring you closer to your food providers. There is implicit trust between say me and my friend Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers. She's not gonna let me down by cutting corners on food safety. There is the issue of transparency that I mentioned last week. Visit your local food. Moreover, the worst in processing operations try to hide themselves. Better to keep the eater from knowing how they do things, and what I mean about doing includes not just food safety but some of the environmental practices of some of our big guys. Eating local does not equal food safety, but eating local stands for food safety, it stands for land stewardship, it stands for real food. It stands for meat that will not be recalled.
Winter's Just a Market Away - From the Trench's
Robin was nice enough to provide a little insider report from last Saturday's Winter Market
The Winter Farmers Market at Epiphany Episcopal Church this past Saturday was quite lively. Epiphany is, to say the least, off the beaten path. It's located near a gentrifying area, and is neighbors with several union halls. There's nothing going on for several blocks on a weekend day; very little foot traffic. It's a beautiful church with a progressive and innovative minister (Rev. Meigan Cameron), but a very small congregation, so not a large built-in constituency for the markets. Markets there have tended to be small (number of customers), and this one was no exception, but as our word has spread and our range of products has widened, I'm finding that those who do attend this market at Epiphany have made the trip there from all over Chicago--sometimes through snowstorms and freezing weather--specifically to support the farmers, to buy locally, to find organic and other sustainably grown foods.
We generally have anywhere from two to eight growers/producers in attendance at our markets with their products. But in recent weeks, I've realized that some vendors can't or won't make the trip to the market (for a lot of understandable reasons), so in order to provide a wide variety of products and in particular to get fresh, local produce to meet the growing demand, I've been making connections with local growers and cooperatives and have been procuring their products (tilapia, fresh lettuce and herbs, mushrooms, cheeses, etc.) and bringing them to market--to a very appreciative clientele. Though I've educated myself as much as possible about the products I bring, the savvy shoppers at these markets have questions about the growing and processing methods, and it's frustrating that I can't always answer to their satisfaction.
There's no substitute for having the grower there to respond directly, but it's just not always possible. My hope is that the success of these Winter Farmers Markets this season will encourage other growers and producers to plan for an extended season and participate next season. I hope you'll consider attending one or more of the remaining markets this season (ending March 30). Let's get the word out that "if we build it, they (the customers) will come" to encourage more vendors to sign on for next year. Be sure to let the vendors who do come know how much you appreciate their presence. And buy generously! For a list of the remaining markets this season, go to www.localharvest.org/farmers-markets/M 19510. If you have any questions or would like to be put on my email list for reminders of the markets with pre-ordering info and a list of products represented that week, email me robininwinter AT aol.com. I look forward to seeing you there!--Robin Schirmer, Chicago Area Market Coordinator for Churches' Center for Land & People
Friday, February 15, 2008
Winter's Just a Market Away - Extra, Extra
Barely a minute after the ink's dried on the last post, I get an e-mail from Robin on new stuff at tomorrow's market in Chicago (see below):
*Organic lettuce, kale, and chard
*Two kinds of basil (both organic)
*Other organic herbs: sage, oregano, parsley, cilantro, and dill
*Five kinds of mushrooms: buttons, portabello, cremini, shitake, and oyster
*Onions: red, yellow, and shallots
*Arugula, cress, and pea shoots
Winter's Just a Market Away - In a Day - Market Reminder
Epiphany Episcopal Church, 201 S. Ashland Ave., Chicago (Corner of Ashland & Adams)
Here's some idea of what the market should look like.
For details of what should be there, see this post or this post. Also, for some good word on the meat vendor, Arnold Farms, see here.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Local as We Wanna Be
Pizza, yes pizza again, but before I get into the pizza let me tell you about dinner on Tuesday night. It exemplified local, winter eating, in Chicagoland. Something old, something new, something frozen and something...argh, I wished I garnished our salads with Maytag blue. In other words, a mix of stuff from storage, stuff preserved, and stuff still growing.
To wit: take about ten fingerling potatoes from the attic; quarter, douse with homemade rosemary oil (local green house rosemary) and roast at 400o. Those will take about forty-five minutes, enough time to prepare the rest of dinner. Take a portion of bacon off your Nueske slab (every localvore has a slab of Nueske bacon laying around, if not they should!) and cube. Render the fat in a cast iron pan, reserve the crispy parts for later. Dice a keeper red onion and sweat in the bacon grease. Add a package of thawed asparagus spears. Cook long enough to beat six or eight or more eggs in a bowel. Add eggs, with bacon, to pan. A bit of shredded local Fontina cheese would not hurt (it did not hurt us). The pan should be at medium heat or less. Let the eggs cook just enough to firm up the bottoms. Then stick in the oven. The eggs and potatoes should be ready at the same time (roughly). Serve with green salad.
OK, getting back to the pizza. Pizza again. Grammy night. While others might call in, our family was fortunate enough to have it made in. Something to eat in front of the TV until Amy Winehouse would or would not destruct. (Just for the record, who is Ray-Ray?)
I cannot figure out if these are our most local pizzas yet. On one hand, the tomatoes for the sauce came from Italy; on the other hand, the crusts were made entirely of Wisconsin wheat, a mixture of hard and soft wheat. The top pizza uses hand made mozzarella from Caputo's Cheese of Melrose Park, the bottom is potato and shredded Fontina (local).
My wife was a bit concerned that the wheat flour would be too grainy for the pizzas. It turned out to be the opposite, at least on the bottom pizza. The heartier wheat really set up the potatoes. These fingerlings, the La Ratte we got in Wisconsin are about the most potato-y potato out there. If I remember my old high school chemistry right, I would say they had a much higher molarity count of potato molecules. Which, I think I am saying means, there was a hell of a large amount of potato flavor crammed into these potatoes. It needed the balance of a strong crust.
Tonight's local mushrooms with local pasta, tomorrow's cholent with short ribs from our cow. It's good to be a localvore.
What's Local @ Whole Foods, River Forest
The kidz lunches are a small chink in our eat local armour. While they're happy with Nueske ham sammys, I'm not always keen on paying that much for lunch meat. So, the ham or turkey I pack them away with, let alone the peanut butter, is seldom local. I am, however, determined (as I have said before), to not let a phoney whittled down "baby" carrot grace their impressionable lips. I have this vow, while also trying each day, to pack away something veg in their lunch. One localvore solution is sprouts or sprouty things.
Sprouts/microgreens are available enough. The winter markets around the Chicago area have them, the Thursday Geneva market has them, Madison has them, Irv and Shelly have them, and...and, now Whole Foods in River Forest has them. Last night I found about three varieties of sprouts grown by Chicago Indoor Garden, an urban agriculture venture. I picked up a pack of sunflower shoots--which really taste like sunflower, not something vaguely chlorophyllesque.
I guess finding something local for the veg portion of lunch is not the hard part for most parents. I'm guessing it's having the kidz happy to munch on a handful of sprouts in front of their friends come lunch time. I guess I'm a lucky Dad.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Today's Must Read
Monica Eng's been on a roll of late, going on a chowathon with the famous chefs, major profile done in Gourmet. Today, her and Phil Vettel team up in the CTrib to tell the bittersweet tale of a Chef with big fans but small resources. Registration required but very much worth it.
Order Local
Last week someone put a comment on the blog about Irv and Shelly's Fresh Picks, a kinda Peapod for readers of Michael Pollan. I did not publish the comment for a few days because the comment bordered on spam or at least free advertising (hint: cut me in!). Then, I thought, well, this site is all about getting the good word out, helping everyone eat local, if this Fresh Pick thing is a resource, why squelch it. And a funny thing happened along the way. I made an order.
I'll reserve more posting until my goods actually arrive on Saturday. In the meantime, I've updated the What's In Season list to include items that a localvore can obtain at Fresh Picks.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Eat Local Cheese
Prairie Fruit Farms makes some of the best goat cheeses that I know. I am especially keen on their Huckleberry Blue [ed., can you lay off the especially keens?]. Come meet farmer and cheesemaker Leslie Cooperbrand this weekend.
From a recent e-mail:
Hello Friends of Marion Street Cheese Market,
Cabin fever, you say? We have a perfect solution.
This coming Saturday, February 16, artisan cheesemaker Leslie Cooperband of Prairie Fruits Farm in Champaign, IL will be paying a visit to Marion Street Cheese Market.
Leslie will arrive around 2:00pm and she will spend a couple hours visiting with our customers. Of course we'll be sampling plenty of great cheeses from Prairie Fruits Farm, and we'll be pouring several perfectly paired wines for you to sample with her cheese.
You will be able to ask Leslie questions about cheesemaking and what it's like to operate a sustainable goat, fruit and vegetable farm in central Illinois. We even have Praire Fruits Farm honey available at the market right now, and it is wonderful!
This should be a fun afternoon of eating cheese and tasting wine, with plenty of discussion on cheesemaking, organic and sustainable farming, and how to best enjoy all the delicious cheese from Prairie Fruits Farm.
We hope you can join us!
To learn more about Prairie Fruits Farm and their organic and sustainable farmstead, you can visit their website at the following link: http://www.prairiefruits.com/
Why Eat Local
You can't see those words in the online version of today's CTrib editorial, but it's there on paper. The CTrib uses a decision by Trader Joe's to cut back on sole source Chinese foods as an excuse to remind us that food may not be as safe as we think (and want).
And those consumers are reacting with their pocketbooks. Those who can afford to do so are looking local for everything from baby building blocks to apple cider.
A regulatory system, assets subject to tort decisions, these may be reasons that economists cite as why consumers find local foods more comforting. How 'bout transparency, the chance to know the source, even visit the farm. Whether you take comfort in Big Brother or the little farmer, there are mechanisms that ensure that local food is safer.
Food safety, just another reason to eat local.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Keeping My Vie On It
I'm especially keen on what's happening at Vie as I have reservations for this weekend. The menu's here; especially interesting are the turkey liver mouse and the root veg salad with house made ranch dressing. One of my favorite things about Chef Virant's repertoire is how he is constantly digging into our culinary heritage, and by heritage I don't mean some idealized world of prairie cooking. I mean pages of recipes of things we've all eaten over our years. Old foods made with better ingredients and intense preparation, my idea of modern cooking.
*Posted a few days ago, but obsessive Vie following limited by being away from home.
Year Round Local
Hopefully, to be blogged, the VI family braved horribly awful weather (swaying across the other lane after hitting black ice is scary, but watching a car on the other side of the Expressway just totally lose control, that's really scary) to buy local in Madison, Wisconsin. Our purchase included La Ratte fingerling potatoes, which may indeed be the best tasting fingerling and heirloom apples ("Odessa calls May apples...").
Here's the updated inventory.
Eat Local Meat
Helge at Drive Thru puts in the good word for Arnold Farm of Western Illinois. You can get this meat for yourself at any of the winter markets mentioned below.
Friday, February 08, 2008
Winter's Just a Market Away
I have yet to post about my visit to the Winter Market in Oak Park last week. Needless to say, it was great, great, great. Here's info on the next such market.
Fair Trade + Farmers Market Saturday, February 16 ~ 10am to 2pm
Epiphany Episcopal Church, http://www.epiphany-chicago.org/
201 S. Ashland Ave. (Corner of Ashland & Adams) CHICAGO
Free admission ~ open to the public
The Fair Trade + Farmers Market will feature
Beef, both grass-fed and grain-fed, all hormone-free*
Pork, grass-fed and hormone-free*
Chicken & turkey, pastured and hormone-free*
Tilapia, farm-raised in Illinois without exposure to mercury
Cheese
Infused vinegars & dried herbs
Honey
Fresh greens & herbs
Yogurt
Apple & pear butters
Potatoes
Mushrooms
Chocolate-covered fruit
Soaps, salves & spa products
Jams & preserves
Wool batting for quilts & comforters
Mattress toppers & comforters
Popcorn
Raw Icelandic wool
Pet soaps & pet beds
A variety of organic milled flours
Wool yarn & knitted items
Maple & sorghum syrups
Fair trade coffee, tea & chocolate
Olive oil from the Palestinian region
Handmade note cards & writing papers
Organic wool stuffed animals
CSA subscriptions for weekly produce this summer
Beautiful baked goods from Fraternite Notre Dame and Sweets by Carolyn
And much, much more
*For best selection, consider pre-ordering; e-mail me at Vitalinfo AT AOL for a form.
Support these local farm producers, eat locally, and shrink your carbon footprint by purchasing food and other local items that haven’t traveled thousands of miles. Quantities of some products are limited, so shop early!
Thursday, February 07, 2008
Local As We Wanna Be
Last week my wife discovered her inner pizzaiola. I did not take pictures last night, but if anything the pizza was more delicious. No, we did not jet over to Ann Arbor to pick up fresh mozzarella. It was not so much the toppings: River Valley Mushrooms on one, smoked mozzarella topped with salad on the other. It was the crust. Just a bit more time in the oven. The crusts crisped more, in a good way. An ideal platform for what is local in the fridge. I'm looking forward to next week's tweaks.
Eat Local Fish
There's a fine line between advocacy and reporting in the CTrib's At Play section. It's not that Phil Vettel is above a little push and shove. I've seen him use his space to seek improvement in Chicago's eating. Maybe today's piece on codish fish and chips represents a state of affairs he's happy with. Maybe.
Atlantic cod is the preferred fish because it's an inexpensive fish that's moist, flaky and sturdy enough for the deep-fryer. Just as important, cod has a very mild flavor. "A lot of people who think of themselves as non-fish eaters will still eat fish and chips," says chef Dirk Flanigan, who sells a lot of fish and chips at the Michigan Avenue gastropub The Gage. "That's what people are looking for." The trouble is, overfishing of cod has become a serious issue. Many chefs take care to buy cod from countries that avoid overfishing; Iceland is considered progressive on that score, and so Flanigan and many other chefs feature Icelandic cod (not a separate species, just Atlantic cod caught in Icelandic waters). Some local chefs have turned to less-overfished species, such as hake, haddock or pollock, members of the cod family whose populations aren't considered to be as endangered. Creative chefs will employ halibut, tilapia and walleye -- but these more expensive fish kick up the prices. "I was thinking one day I'd do mahi-mahi, the next day St. Pierre," says Flanigan, "but getting someone to pay $25 for fish and chips would be hard."
Phil hits on the problems with the cod, tasteless and scarce. He recognizes a solution in more expensive fish, but he fails to mention the best solution. Local fish.
There was a time, in the greater Midwest that fish n' chips, at least Friday fish fries, meant one fish, perch. These days perch still swim away in our Great Lakes, but the commercial fishing in many of the Great Lakes states is next to morbid. Still, lake perch is out there. More importantly, there's efforts to farm raise perch, and what I've tried so far, from has been pretty darn good (I've long been impressed with Growing Power's operations, but read the linked article to really be impressed). Let's pine for more perch in our fish fries.
Think of all impacts of ocean caught cod. Sure, not all cod stocks are decimated, but so many are. Beyond that, there's the impact of the miles and miles that these fish travel back and fourth from boats to shores to markets to markets to our restaurants. All that for a product tauted for its "very mild flavor". It's not that perch is fishy. It's no herring. It is, however, sweet and distinct and with a flavor that will soon addict. Ditch the cod.
Don't get me started on the chips.
Wednesday, February 06, 2008
Did You Know
Topics That May or May Not Show Up
- The best paczki's I've tried were at Oak Park Bakery. Make a note for next year.
- Pasticceria Natalina has justifiably got a lot of renown since its opening last year, but what about Giuseppe, who recently took over the operations at Claudio Bakery in Elmwood Park (7308 North Avenue). His products may not be as fancy. He does bake up some great breads, especially the classic Sicilian bread called malfada.
- There's such a thing as local shrimp in the Midwest. And do you know Eric Villegas. When we were in Michigan a couple of weeks ago we found Villegas's great celebration of Michigan foods (Fork in the Road: a book/PBS series). We also learned about the shrimp farm in Okemos, Michigan.
- Cassie's not selling Michigan shrimps yet at her new store, Green Grocer, but hopefully she will soon. She's hell bent on local, quizzing her potential suppliers for her new market. All ready she has a great stock of Michigan beans, local beet chips (worth the visit alone), Bennison's bread, one of my favorites, meat, eggs, Tomato Mountain products...
- Like Cassie, Robin Winters did not just talk about local. Inspired by a few events, she pretty much single handily; OK with Tony of Scotch Hill Farms, she's brought local to the Chicago area while the farmer's markets hibernate.
- I'm willing to buy a non-local cheese if (only?) it's as good and as special as Jasper Hill Farms Constant Bliss, as close as possible to true Brie in the USA.
- At one time, Maywood had a Cuban community. Today, a bodega called Oriente is one reminder. Another is the cafe, El Prado (612 Lake). It's like eating in Senora's home. You order what she has each day. Which more often than not consists of flat breasts of chicken/beef with tons of garlic and onions or something long cooked and on the side, plantains, yucca and the necessary beans/rice. Boliche is a braised round roast stuffed with ham, a bit on the touch side. Carne asada is not steak but another form of stew, with potatoes. Garbanzo soup is emblematic of her touch.
Monday, February 04, 2008
What's In Season Now, Chicagoland - February
To those eating local, you should/could find these foods available this month:
Updated 2/13/08
Beef, lamb, chicken, pork - Winter markets; farm direct, Internet/Freshpicks.com
Grains - Winter markets, farm direct
Eggs - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery, Freshpicks.com
Farm raised tilapia - Winter markets
Farm raised rainbow trout - Grocery
Great Lakes fish - pike, whitefish, pearch, white bass, lake trout, carp - Grocery, speciality stores
Microgreens, sprouts and related - Winter markets, Freshpicks.com
Lettuces - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Arugula - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Carrots - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Cabbage - Winter markets, Freshpicks.com
Potatoes - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery, Freshpicks.com
Apples - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery
Herbs - Winter markets, farm direct, Freshpicks.com
Mushrooms - Winter markets, Grocery, Freshpicks.com
Onions - Winter markets, farm direct, grocery
Burdock root - Freshpicks.com
Horseradish - Freshpicks.com
Lula's - The Restaurant I Just Cannot Seem To Like
We try to be a Monday through Friday local-a-eatin' family (reserving eating out for the weekends). We were pretty set for Friday, having all the local corned beef (Vienna, local at least in production), turnips, red potatoes, parsnips, and cabbage needed for a nice boiled dinner. A combination of things including the snow put a kibosh on our plans. But I still wanted to eat local. Vie was a bit more money than I wanted to spend. Lula's.
It was one of those dinners that during it, neither my wife nor I did much complaining. For one thing, the kidz seemed very happy with their food; for another, since we could not get a read on each other, we did not want to appear to spoil the other's experience. You know. If you both hate it, crap away, but if she likes it, she may feel bad if you start trashing. It was not until the next day that I realized she disliked it about as much as me, and she's not nearly as predisposed to dislike Lula's as me. For her, it was more the service, a bit of the food, me it was mostly the food, some of the service. Bottom line, food on the banal side, service on the inept side.
We shared all: duck liver pate with a bit (and I mean bit) of blackberry preserves and black kale soup for starters; some type of pasta (the menu featured about four pastas whose names I did not recognize) with goat and a "24 hour" lamb shoulder with beans and greens. Let's take the last first. I expected 24 hour cooked lamb shoulder to be one of those, the French have a name for it, eat with a spoon, kinda dishes. Nope, it was hardly soft, rich, unctuous, any of the things the dish implied. Both the goat pasta and the kale soup were excessively bland. The soup, I could taste some cream, some type of acid, but pretty much no kale. The pate was, well excessively smooth, soft. The problem, it worked less as a mousse than it did as a pate.
Service, my wife was mostly bothered by how the staff constantly reached across our table to grab plates. Yeah, that bothered me, but what bothered me more was when I tried to quiz a bit on the actual local. I got a general answer that they used local organic. When I pressed, what was local, what farms, etc. I got a well, there's City Farms, and...and that was about it. No real explanation of what was actually local on the menu. At least if I'm gonna eat non-local food, I want to eat more tasty food.
