During the summer, a farmer's market--not a big one, but one at least--occurs at the Eli's Cheesecake Factory on Thursdays. This year, they are also running a lecture series with some great speakers on local and sustainable. Last week, my wife and I stumbled on the chance to hear Lloyd Nichols explain how he got started. Hint: when the other kidz were playing ball, he was tending his garden.
This week (7/10/08) is Terra Brockman of the Land Connection. She will speak from 1-2 PM. Eli's is located at 6701 W. Forest Park Drive, Chicago, which is not too far from Harlem/Irving.
Upcoming lectures all from 1-2PM:
7/17/08 - Lynn Peemoeller, an urban foods planner
7/24/08 - Stan Schutte, of the organic Triple S Farm
7/31/08 - John Caveny, raiser of heritage poultry (as well as lamb and beef)
8/7/08 - Donna and Natasha Lehrer, founders of Illinois Green Pastures Fiber Co-op.
Eli's has a stand selling lunches with market produce. Last week they made paella.
PS
As I wrote this, I found out that we're having a bit of car problems. I still hope to be there tomorrow, but even if I cannot make it, you should go.
PPS
The factory itself has great deals on imperfect cheesecakes as well as samples galore. That alone is practically worth the visit.
PPPS
Is it really true that our President said the problem with the French is that they have no word for entrepreneurship?
Wednesday, July 09, 2008
Eat Local Meat
Buy Cow
At least one person has asked me about purchasing a local cow, and I know at least a few more of you have at least thought about it. Buying a whole, 1/2 or 1/4 cow is the best way to ensure a good stock of local meat at a reasonable price. I'll confess/warn you need a full sized freezer to fit a 1/2 cow, but you can get by, maybe with a regular freezer and a 1/4 cow. Not only will you save money, but you'll have access to head-to-tail eating. This was one of the best cooking ideas I've ever seen! This particular cow is all grass fed and grass finished, but other than that, I cannot speak to is deliciousness. I post this only as a public service.
At least one person has asked me about purchasing a local cow, and I know at least a few more of you have at least thought about it. Buying a whole, 1/2 or 1/4 cow is the best way to ensure a good stock of local meat at a reasonable price. I'll confess/warn you need a full sized freezer to fit a 1/2 cow, but you can get by, maybe with a regular freezer and a 1/4 cow. Not only will you save money, but you'll have access to head-to-tail eating. This was one of the best cooking ideas I've ever seen! This particular cow is all grass fed and grass finished, but other than that, I cannot speak to is deliciousness. I post this only as a public service.
Prairierth Farm of Atlanta, IL (Dave Bishop) has one head of cattle ready for processing in a few weeks that is certified organic, grass-fed, and grass-finished. He's hoping to sell 1/4 or 1/2 sides and would be glad to discuss price and delivery/pickup options. Better yet, get some friends together and buy the whole thing! He's a member of the Midwest Organic Farmers Cooperative and grows a wide variety of certified organic produce and grains, in addition to about two dozen head of cattle and a few dozen chickens. Contact Robin at robininwinter @ aol.com if you'd like to be put in touch with Dave.
More Mado
Eat Local Out
As I mentioned the other day in my bitterness, I have Mado on the mind for reasons that will be revealed some other time. With Mado on the mind I had practically no choice but to visit for a meal. As they say in the critic notebook, you gotta hit Mado today 'cause you might not be able to taste that menu tomorrow.
Satuday night was Spanish night at Mado. I know Rob's more sophisticated than 1080, but he must have been reading something that got Spain on his mind. Maybe he's a Euro soccer fan. And what made Saturday Spanish day at Mado. Well let me put it another way, maybe it was not so much Spain on his mind but incredibly good deals on Marcona almonds and chick peas. Each appeared on several menu items. I've enjoyed Mado's take on octopus before, so an appetizer of octopus and chick pea puree appealed, but you know what? While chick peas abounded on the menu, we never had one.
We did get some almonds, and you know what? As much as I love almonds generally, and Marcona's specifically, I found there too many in the dish we sampled. On the other hand, that particular dish was probably the best thing I've eaten at Mado. Coddled egg with spring vegetables. He coddles the egg for the barest of times. I do not know if he uses some fancy contraption, but in the end product is just this side of set. It is not, however, gross. The runny egg mixes with a strong dollop of butter in a bowl with the freshest of peas and favas plus the almonds. The almonds add nice crunch, textural contrast as we critics say, but ultimately I would have liked a few less as the almonds distracted. Poor me.
Poor me having to eat at Mado. Is it cliche to say Rob Levitt is hitting his stride? Improving each day? Getting his groove. Maybe it's all the advice I leave him on the blog [ed. say what?]. Although I am supposed to say you cannot have the same dishes I tried when talking about Mado, I have to say that my wife and I had versions of dishes we've already tried. In both cases, we liked the current versions even more. With the hanger steak, there seemed little space to improve, but Mado did. The Chef never came out to shmooze, so I never got the chance to ask if he changed beef suppliers. I found this week's hanger steak fattier, i.e., richer, a good thing in steaks. The pike wisely included a sauce this time, a well executed walnut. The strong flavor of the nuts bounced well off the mild fish. Of course if the Chef came out to shmooze, I would have bugged him to use local black walnuts instead of standard Cali-nuts. I suppose there's some room for improvement at Mado.
I hope the Chef did not stay in the kitchen because we did have one wee problem. See, the pike was cooked about perfect. A big hunk of fish, the skin crisped, about 1/2 cooked until just done. Then, we got to the other half. That's where we get to the about. It stopped being done. Freshwater fish is not the fish for medium rare (and less). In the end, however, I cannot complain too much as they fixed it, re-sauced it completely and added more of the cauliflower garnish.
I aint complaining about the rest of the dishes that graced our table: duck rilletes with just enough French espice to offset their heaviness; and a smoked steelhead trout with beets. Did I say above that the coddled egg was the best dish ever at Mado? What about the trout, an amazing collection of flavors from smokey to salty to sweet. I could have eaten a big moundful. We started intense with those appetizers, we finished light and etheral with a coffee pana cotta. If Rob had had time to shmooze, I would have told him I was one happy eater.
Eat local, eat local out. Mado's at 1647 N Milwaukee. Reservations advised, (773) 342-2340. For now, it's still BYOB. It's always seemed like a bargain--do order more than you think you need, the prices are that good--and BYOB makes it that much more of a deal.
PS
I read the post to my wife, as I do most of my breakfast posts these days. She's not in favor of the rhetorical flourishes of this review, but we'll agree to disagree on that. She does bring up a good point though. She says, what they hell am I doing talking up almonds and chick peas when you want to emphasize the localness of Mado. For instance, she says, "what about the cauliflower with the pike, how can you call that just a garnish." I guess my short answer would be that the almonds and chick peas do not distract from the localness of the Mado menu. It is still nearly wholly derived from what happens to be in the market that day. Spanish day aside, there is no place right now in Chicago more committed to such an up-to-date menu; that and his ability to use local animals, the whole beast, make Rob Levitt a Chef to admire as well as enjoy.
As I mentioned the other day in my bitterness, I have Mado on the mind for reasons that will be revealed some other time. With Mado on the mind I had practically no choice but to visit for a meal. As they say in the critic notebook, you gotta hit Mado today 'cause you might not be able to taste that menu tomorrow.
Satuday night was Spanish night at Mado. I know Rob's more sophisticated than 1080, but he must have been reading something that got Spain on his mind. Maybe he's a Euro soccer fan. And what made Saturday Spanish day at Mado. Well let me put it another way, maybe it was not so much Spain on his mind but incredibly good deals on Marcona almonds and chick peas. Each appeared on several menu items. I've enjoyed Mado's take on octopus before, so an appetizer of octopus and chick pea puree appealed, but you know what? While chick peas abounded on the menu, we never had one.
We did get some almonds, and you know what? As much as I love almonds generally, and Marcona's specifically, I found there too many in the dish we sampled. On the other hand, that particular dish was probably the best thing I've eaten at Mado. Coddled egg with spring vegetables. He coddles the egg for the barest of times. I do not know if he uses some fancy contraption, but in the end product is just this side of set. It is not, however, gross. The runny egg mixes with a strong dollop of butter in a bowl with the freshest of peas and favas plus the almonds. The almonds add nice crunch, textural contrast as we critics say, but ultimately I would have liked a few less as the almonds distracted. Poor me.
Poor me having to eat at Mado. Is it cliche to say Rob Levitt is hitting his stride? Improving each day? Getting his groove. Maybe it's all the advice I leave him on the blog [ed. say what?]. Although I am supposed to say you cannot have the same dishes I tried when talking about Mado, I have to say that my wife and I had versions of dishes we've already tried. In both cases, we liked the current versions even more. With the hanger steak, there seemed little space to improve, but Mado did. The Chef never came out to shmooze, so I never got the chance to ask if he changed beef suppliers. I found this week's hanger steak fattier, i.e., richer, a good thing in steaks. The pike wisely included a sauce this time, a well executed walnut. The strong flavor of the nuts bounced well off the mild fish. Of course if the Chef came out to shmooze, I would have bugged him to use local black walnuts instead of standard Cali-nuts. I suppose there's some room for improvement at Mado.
I hope the Chef did not stay in the kitchen because we did have one wee problem. See, the pike was cooked about perfect. A big hunk of fish, the skin crisped, about 1/2 cooked until just done. Then, we got to the other half. That's where we get to the about. It stopped being done. Freshwater fish is not the fish for medium rare (and less). In the end, however, I cannot complain too much as they fixed it, re-sauced it completely and added more of the cauliflower garnish.
I aint complaining about the rest of the dishes that graced our table: duck rilletes with just enough French espice to offset their heaviness; and a smoked steelhead trout with beets. Did I say above that the coddled egg was the best dish ever at Mado? What about the trout, an amazing collection of flavors from smokey to salty to sweet. I could have eaten a big moundful. We started intense with those appetizers, we finished light and etheral with a coffee pana cotta. If Rob had had time to shmooze, I would have told him I was one happy eater.
Eat local, eat local out. Mado's at 1647 N Milwaukee. Reservations advised, (773) 342-2340. For now, it's still BYOB. It's always seemed like a bargain--do order more than you think you need, the prices are that good--and BYOB makes it that much more of a deal.
PS
I read the post to my wife, as I do most of my breakfast posts these days. She's not in favor of the rhetorical flourishes of this review, but we'll agree to disagree on that. She does bring up a good point though. She says, what they hell am I doing talking up almonds and chick peas when you want to emphasize the localness of Mado. For instance, she says, "what about the cauliflower with the pike, how can you call that just a garnish." I guess my short answer would be that the almonds and chick peas do not distract from the localness of the Mado menu. It is still nearly wholly derived from what happens to be in the market that day. Spanish day aside, there is no place right now in Chicago more committed to such an up-to-date menu; that and his ability to use local animals, the whole beast, make Rob Levitt a Chef to admire as well as enjoy.
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
What's Local at Cassie's Green Grocer
Channeling My Inner Bubbe
The Chicago Tribune writes a front pager on eating local. They skip any mention of the one store with local as its raison d'etre, Green Grocer. I mean I'm in it for the delicious food, the saving the earth, the friendships, but mostly for the title, "World's Best Locavore." Cassie's got a business to run! Get ye to Green Grocer.
As can be expected, July's looking good for Cassie. She went small with City Farm, pinkie wide carrots and beets the size of gumballs. Maroon raspberries and darker cherries, some herbs and other some green things. Cassie stocks more than local produce. My wife calls Indiana's Traders Point Creamery Triple Orchard (or something like that) yogurt her crack. Cassie carries that as well as other products from Trader's Point including cottage cheese, ice cream and fresh mozzarella. Proteins today included tilapia from Aquaranch, James Farm beef, and a rarity for locavores, chicken breasts, that's breasts alone--me and my pals, we usually have to buy our chickens whole.
Getting back to those baby beets. As we've been discussing on LTH [ed. and here too!], it may make sense to eat like your grandparents. Eating that way means playing the part of your Bubbe, getting in that zone where you can effortlessly peel a bunch of beets. It does seem that the method to do such escaped me. I needed more than the zen of the paring knife. I needed Jaques Pepin in the kitchen.
On my last beet, my wife, who would later yell at me for not cutting the beet greens uniform enough, says, "I'm shredding them anyways, you do not need to be too careful." Too late, she took my exquisitely skinless beets and quickly shredded them in the processor.
It was Northern Italian night at the Bungalow. She made riso (think soupy risotto) with the end of the year asparagus. Our side, shredded beets and their tops, sauteed with a good hand of butter, lime zest and a sprinkling of chive. If nothing else, we enjoyed the break from our usual extra virgin olive oil cooked food.
The Chicago Tribune writes a front pager on eating local. They skip any mention of the one store with local as its raison d'etre, Green Grocer. I mean I'm in it for the delicious food, the saving the earth, the friendships, but mostly for the title, "World's Best Locavore." Cassie's got a business to run! Get ye to Green Grocer.
As can be expected, July's looking good for Cassie. She went small with City Farm, pinkie wide carrots and beets the size of gumballs. Maroon raspberries and darker cherries, some herbs and other some green things. Cassie stocks more than local produce. My wife calls Indiana's Traders Point Creamery Triple Orchard (or something like that) yogurt her crack. Cassie carries that as well as other products from Trader's Point including cottage cheese, ice cream and fresh mozzarella. Proteins today included tilapia from Aquaranch, James Farm beef, and a rarity for locavores, chicken breasts, that's breasts alone--me and my pals, we usually have to buy our chickens whole.
Getting back to those baby beets. As we've been discussing on LTH [ed. and here too!], it may make sense to eat like your grandparents. Eating that way means playing the part of your Bubbe, getting in that zone where you can effortlessly peel a bunch of beets. It does seem that the method to do such escaped me. I needed more than the zen of the paring knife. I needed Jaques Pepin in the kitchen.
On my last beet, my wife, who would later yell at me for not cutting the beet greens uniform enough, says, "I'm shredding them anyways, you do not need to be too careful." Too late, she took my exquisitely skinless beets and quickly shredded them in the processor.
It was Northern Italian night at the Bungalow. She made riso (think soupy risotto) with the end of the year asparagus. Our side, shredded beets and their tops, sauteed with a good hand of butter, lime zest and a sprinkling of chive. If nothing else, we enjoyed the break from our usual extra virgin olive oil cooked food.
Irv & Shelly, Not Bitter
No mention by Irv & Shelly of the CTrib's locavore article in their latest e-mail, but they do link to their well done newletter. Go read it here for good stories on why your CSA looks a bit odd this year and about Prairrie Fruit Farms of downstate, Illinois.
Wither Blog Day? (+Newest Inventory)
(Updates below)
Last we met, I promised hours of blog fun as I assuaged my grief over being left out of the CTrib's locavore article. Yet, I could not bare to be in the Bungalow any more Sunday for fear that I might accidentally see the paper (and find out yet again that when Kerry Woods walks the first batter, no lead is safe). I did the only thing a good eat local guy could do to feel better, I went to a farmer's market. Of course as an avid eater, I also went for a local flavored brunch.
You think I'm bitter, what about Mindy Segal and her nice little place, Hot Chocolate. The Trib sidebars restaurants serving local and skips her place entirely, noting instead such arrivistes as Osteria Via Stato [ed. perhaps you just have a"thing" against OvS?]. Ms. Segal's had local on her menu before it became word of the year. My brunch the other day was awash in local: Gunthrop Farm bacon, local strawberries, Nueske ham, and although not really thought of as such, the smoked whitefish on my wife's plate is pretty local to us. Besides the use of local on the brunch menu, Hot Chocolate serves one of the best selections of Wisconsin cheeses around town. I was decidedly less bitter after brunch. More so because Mindy also offers little bites of some of her sweets, for the taking by the cash register.
Still, only one thing could be-still my stirred up heart. We moved on from Hot Chocolate to the Wicker Park Farmer's Market. We could not possibly need more food (could we?). Our holiday weekend local:
Genesis Grower's CSA - 7/3/08
Last we met, I promised hours of blog fun as I assuaged my grief over being left out of the CTrib's locavore article. Yet, I could not bare to be in the Bungalow any more Sunday for fear that I might accidentally see the paper (and find out yet again that when Kerry Woods walks the first batter, no lead is safe). I did the only thing a good eat local guy could do to feel better, I went to a farmer's market. Of course as an avid eater, I also went for a local flavored brunch.
You think I'm bitter, what about Mindy Segal and her nice little place, Hot Chocolate. The Trib sidebars restaurants serving local and skips her place entirely, noting instead such arrivistes as Osteria Via Stato [ed. perhaps you just have a"thing" against OvS?]. Ms. Segal's had local on her menu before it became word of the year. My brunch the other day was awash in local: Gunthrop Farm bacon, local strawberries, Nueske ham, and although not really thought of as such, the smoked whitefish on my wife's plate is pretty local to us. Besides the use of local on the brunch menu, Hot Chocolate serves one of the best selections of Wisconsin cheeses around town. I was decidedly less bitter after brunch. More so because Mindy also offers little bites of some of her sweets, for the taking by the cash register.
Still, only one thing could be-still my stirred up heart. We moved on from Hot Chocolate to the Wicker Park Farmer's Market. We could not possibly need more food (could we?). Our holiday weekend local:
Genesis Grower's CSA - 7/3/08
- 2 bags arugula
- 2 heads leaf lettuce
- The biggest head of Napa cabbage
- The K word a/k/a kohlrabi
- Kale
- Bekana - I love Vicki to death but I wish she'd not foster the bekana, an odd Asian green on us
Eli's Cheesecake Farmer's Market - 7/3/08
- Fava beans, strawberries, young onions (tropea/cipollini), sweet onions, baby shallots - Nichol's Farm
- Interesting talk - Lloyd Nichol's, Nichol's Farm
- Cheesecakes, both purchased and comped - Eli's Cheesecake
Fox & Obel - 7/5/08
- Farmer's All Natural Creamery, cream, sour cream, cottage cheese
- Trader's Point Creamery yogurt
- Grunthrop Farms ham
Oak Park Farmer's Market - 7/5/08
- 300 lbs or so of organically raised, local hog - Wettstein Organic Farm
- Sour cherries, apricots - Hardin Farm
- Basil, mint, eggs - Genesis Growers
- Asparagus, peas - Stover's U Pick
- Curly parsley - Nice woman farming a plot in Forest Park whose name I keep on forgetting!
Wicker Park Farmer's Market - 7/6/08
- Green garlic, with scapes (which is mostly not green anymore) - Nichol's Farm
- Black raspberries - Seedlings
- Carrots - Two nice people with a farm in ILLINOIS but whose name I also forgot
Green Grocer Chicago - 7/8/08
- Beets, carrots - City Farm
- Raspberries - Unknown Michigan farm
Genesis Growers CSA - 7/10/08
- Yellow summer squash
- Thyme
- New potatoes
- Sweet cherries
- Carrots, including some white carrots
- Scallions
- 4 chickens
Eli's Cheesecake Farmer's Market - 7/10/08
- Tropea onions, fava beans - Nichol's Farm
Northside Farmer's Market, Madison, WI
- Veg: organic cucumbers, seedless cucumber, garlic scapes, sugar snaps, snow peas, carrots, green beans, blue, tomatoes, collard greens, beets, cauliflower, summer squash, squash blossoms
- Fruit: blueberries
- Herbs: papalo, cilantro, epazote, parsley
- Fish: farm raised perch
- Dairy: Sugar River yogurt, Sugar River sour cream
- Pantry: Pamplemousse Preserves (elderflower caramel, rhubarb vanilla preserves)
Pierces Northside Market, Madison, WI - 7/13/08
- New Glarus Brewery - Edel Pils, Fat Squirrel
- Capital Brewery - Island Wheat, Rustic Ale
- Botham Vineyards - Upland Reserve
- Uncle Phil's Mustard
Willy St. Co-op - 7/13/08
- Wisconsin grown veg: pea shoots, chard, romaine, radicchio
- Wisconsin cheese: Widmer 2 year cheddar, Roth Kase Gruyere, Hidden Springs Creamery "Driftless" sheep's milk cheese, Antigo StarVechio
- Sugar River yogurt
2 Girls on a corner at State Street, Madison - 7/13/08
- Raspberries from their back yard
Liquor store on Washington St. on the way to I-90 - 7/13/08
- New Glarus Brewery - Spotted Cow
- Death's Door Spirits - Death Door Vodka
Whole Foods, River Forest, IL - 7/14/08
- Farmer's All Natural Creamery Milk
- Cucumber - some Indiana farm
- Blueberries - some Michigan outfit
Previous list of acquisitions here.
Sunday, July 06, 2008
I'm Not Bitter - Blogday, Cont.
One last thing that needs to be blogged about, Fox & Obel has greatly increased their supply of local. I tracked down someone in the produce section when I was there the other day. I said, "your produce section looks much improved." He said, "I was hired three weeks ago."
I'm Not Bitter - Blogday
I am NOT motivated to blog all day by my bitterness towards all things Chicago Tribune. I mean if I refuse to look at the paper this morning, the Cubs might have won yesterday. Besides, does Gerry Smith know I'm a Tribune vendor. It's just with the holiday and all, I'm very behind in my blogging. I've been blinded by bitterness, but I've got lots to say.
First, some link love. I hope you all have seen MikeG's video on local, the guy with the passion for roof tops and roof top gardens as well, Bruce, now has a blog. Check it out.
Other things that should show up today or soon:
Eli's Cheesecake hosts a farmer's market on Thursdays. They are also hosting a series of lectures on local food related topics (a series that seems to have slipped by everyone's radar). Last week Lloyd Nichols spoke. Next week it's Terra Brockman of the Land Connection.
Scotch Hill Farms, who oddly enough, are in Wisconsin, but show up at the Oak Park Farmer's Market, are seeking interest in a milk and cheese CSA. The CSA, with a delivery at Oak Park, would provide high quality local products such as Sugar River Dairy yogurt. Stop by their stand and tell Tony or Dela you are interested.
I've had Mado on the mind for reasons that will be revealed some other time, but 'cause of that, my wife and I decided to dine there last night. It's been good before, quite, good, but last night was the best meal so far. Still, despite Rob's promises, they're not serving bread. I'm not bitter about that either.
No, grapes are not in season yet, but the market is awash in new products. Concentrate now on the products with the most fleeting of season. Chad Nichol's tricked us into buying fava beans with this clever conceit, he grilled them for us. We bought a pound and a half. Unlike last year, the Chicago area locavore has apricots to eat. Grab 'em now.
Besides apricots and favas, we keep on getting other local foods, including a whole half-a hog (which my wife did a masterful job of squeezing it into the freezer). I'll be updating the inventory soon.
Hey you, don't eat local. Instead of a year on a 100 mile diet, try a lifetime of reasonable eating.
I have infusions to write about and pics from a lavish Shabbat dinner, but until all that, go read Valeree's blog, it's very good. She's not the least bit bitter.
First, some link love. I hope you all have seen MikeG's video on local, the guy with the passion for roof tops and roof top gardens as well, Bruce, now has a blog. Check it out.
Other things that should show up today or soon:
Eli's Cheesecake hosts a farmer's market on Thursdays. They are also hosting a series of lectures on local food related topics (a series that seems to have slipped by everyone's radar). Last week Lloyd Nichols spoke. Next week it's Terra Brockman of the Land Connection.
Bitterness aside, I don't buy this quote from the CTrib's article
"Illinois does not have a lot of local vegetable producers, so when you go to farmers markets you see folks from Wisconsin and Michigan," Slama said. "It's a regional approach if you still consider yourself someone who eats primarily local food."It is true that when you go to farmer's markets in the Chicago area you will find farmer's from Michigan like Hardin Farms, who grow the best stone fruits or Walt Skibbies with an outstanding selection of apples and pears, but when it comes to vegetables, market shoppers are most likely to find Nichol's Farm at their market. They can also buy vegetables from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers, Henry's Farm, Kinnikinnick Farm, Sandhill Organic; there's the Midwest Organic Farmer's Coop that Robin "Winter" fronts at Daley Plaza; hell there's City Farm who show up each week to the Logan Square Farmer's Market. And speaking of Logan Square, what about Farmer Rob and his Montalbano Farm. He's also at the Ridgeville Market in Evanston that needs your love. Of course, maybe you are not a market shopper, there's that small outfit out of Illinois serving the CSA needs of many, called, um, Angelic Organics. I could go on, but I have other things to not blog about.
Scotch Hill Farms, who oddly enough, are in Wisconsin, but show up at the Oak Park Farmer's Market, are seeking interest in a milk and cheese CSA. The CSA, with a delivery at Oak Park, would provide high quality local products such as Sugar River Dairy yogurt. Stop by their stand and tell Tony or Dela you are interested.
I've had Mado on the mind for reasons that will be revealed some other time, but 'cause of that, my wife and I decided to dine there last night. It's been good before, quite, good, but last night was the best meal so far. Still, despite Rob's promises, they're not serving bread. I'm not bitter about that either.
No, grapes are not in season yet, but the market is awash in new products. Concentrate now on the products with the most fleeting of season. Chad Nichol's tricked us into buying fava beans with this clever conceit, he grilled them for us. We bought a pound and a half. Unlike last year, the Chicago area locavore has apricots to eat. Grab 'em now.
Besides apricots and favas, we keep on getting other local foods, including a whole half-a hog (which my wife did a masterful job of squeezing it into the freezer). I'll be updating the inventory soon.
Hey you, don't eat local. Instead of a year on a 100 mile diet, try a lifetime of reasonable eating.
I have infusions to write about and pics from a lavish Shabbat dinner, but until all that, go read Valeree's blog, it's very good. She's not the least bit bitter.
Saturday, July 05, 2008
I'm Not Bitter - Chicago Tribune Front's Local
While the story should run on the front page of Sunday's Chicago Tribune, it's already front and center on their web site. I'm entirely happy that the Trib's profiling locavore's. The challenges of eating local will diminish as more people eat local. I believe, have remarked often, that demand, consumer demand, will make local happen the most. Want more farmer's markets; shop at farmer's markets. Same with winter markets. Don't just dabble. Let your wallets talk. Demand can achieve year round local produce, right here in Chicago. Demand can create meat that's not frozen all the time. Demand will get you more and more restaurants with local food. So, I'm happy first of all that the article highlights a few others that are keeping local, with various degrees of extremism. I am happy, obviously, with the top of the news placement, and I am happy that the article will encourage more people to eat local. I'm not bitter that my comments to the reporter last week were not included. The story is mostly a good primer for eat local starters, and I'm not bitter over the fact that I asked the reporter to mention this humble blog, and he did not.
Really, I'm not bitter. I'm not a bitter kinda guy. My family calls me Mr. Not Very Bitter. It's just that I did not start eating local last month, nor did I commence my web site (this one) in 2008. Been doing it, my family and I, for three plus years. Not giving it a whirl, not a one week challenge and not in time for the duration of farmer's markets. We do it summer and winter. We maintain it because the reasons for eating local, all the reasons for eating local, do not go into hibernation when the farmer's markets pack away. And, we do it, surely a bit, for the challenge too, to see that we can continue to do it. We know the challenges. Just because my family and I believe we have as much, nay more experiences on eating local in our area, we're not bitter. If I was a bitter kinda guy, I'd be bitter. Instead, I'm happy the Trib's got the Eat Local beat.
Certainly, a bitter guy would not share the three challenges to eating local I mentioned to the reporter the other day. After all, if they were not good enough for the Chicago Tribune, could the be good enough for here?. The challenges to eating local in Chicago:
Really, I'm not bitter. I'm not a bitter kinda guy. My family calls me Mr. Not Very Bitter. It's just that I did not start eating local last month, nor did I commence my web site (this one) in 2008. Been doing it, my family and I, for three plus years. Not giving it a whirl, not a one week challenge and not in time for the duration of farmer's markets. We do it summer and winter. We maintain it because the reasons for eating local, all the reasons for eating local, do not go into hibernation when the farmer's markets pack away. And, we do it, surely a bit, for the challenge too, to see that we can continue to do it. We know the challenges. Just because my family and I believe we have as much, nay more experiences on eating local in our area, we're not bitter. If I was a bitter kinda guy, I'd be bitter. Instead, I'm happy the Trib's got the Eat Local beat.
Certainly, a bitter guy would not share the three challenges to eating local I mentioned to the reporter the other day. After all, if they were not good enough for the Chicago Tribune, could the be good enough for here?. The challenges to eating local in Chicago:
- Tracking down one's food. To eat local in the Chicago area means working for your food, whether it's shopping at farmer's markets or figuring out how to have local meat, it's not just a question of hitting the closest supermarket.
- Can local be done year-round? To eat local in the Chicago area in the winter means a combination of winter shopping and storage. I'm not sure which is the bigger problem. Do you have the time to run to Madison? Do you have the space and resources to horde food?
- Time. As I have said often, local needs time. It needs time to figure out what works, how to do things that work for you, and it needs time to prep, to get your local food on the table.
As to resources, there's plenty here, including my trademarked best seasonality guide. Look over the links on the sidebar for any help you need to eat local. If I was bitter, I'd go an erase them all right now.
I look forward to your participation in the Eat Local Challenge. I'm with you all the way. Not the least bit bitter.
Thursday, July 03, 2008
Funny Pages
For years, no aspect of the media has more matched the daily machinations of our lives more than Baby Blues. In that vein, see this comic. Note, it took them less than a 1/2 hour to yank the actual image off this web site.
The Cost of Local Food
Yesterday, I spoke with a local reporter about the challenges of eating local. One challenge I did not mention was cost. I did this because I do not believe cost is a challenge to eating local. At least let me put it this way, I certainly think that I am paying the fair cost for my food when eating local. That does not mean that there are not ways to make local less costly. Jen Maiser at the Eat Local Challenge site has some good ideas on how to spend less money as you go local.
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
MCA Farmer's Market
We Need After Hour Farmer's Markets!
We had the perfect Tuesday afternoon planned. I spent the morning ably in work, completing a case, but perhaps the day's events were foreshadowed by a software glitch that prevented me from sending out this report. Rick Bayless, by way of Macy's 7th floor, left a bad taste in my mouth too. It cost me over $10 for slices of chicken breast (I'm not sure if a whole breast made it on my sandwich), a small container of salsa from a jar and a watery diet Coke. I gotta certain amount of love AND respect for Mr. Bayless. He is very local ya' know, but I also find, well, they never call hm Rick "Value" Bayless.
They may call me "Mr. Farmer's Market"(although my family also calls me Mr. Thin Slicer and Mr. Mirth Provider but that's neither here nor there to the point at hand). No one loves farmer's markets more than me. I've driven in horrible storms to get to Madison's market; braved sub-zero weather for a market in Ann Arbor. I'll get out of bed at the crack of dawn to ensure my Saturday includes a stop at the Oak Park market. These days, I'm at at least 2 markets a week. Because I am Mr. Farmer's Market I can criticize the hell out of them.
Really, I said that wrong. I don't mean to criticize farmer's markets. I mean to criticize the idea of farmer's markets. And it's not even farmer's markets I am criticizing. What I mean to say is that farmer's markets are a problem for the locavore. OK, what I mean to say, is that you should not have to rely soley on farmer's markets to eat local. Make sense yet? All I'm trying to get to is that it would be helpful if farmer's markets had hours that facilitated more people eating local. Like, for instance, how 'bout a market that was open on the way home from work, so you could be inspired by the bounty and then cook dinner.
The market at the MCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) is advertised as going to 6 PM. Back to my swimmingly planned day. The plan was that Mom and Older Daughter would take advantage of free Tuesdays to see the Jeff Koons exhibit, and Dad would get another market under his belt. I did a bit of recon while they got a head start on me--there's only so much high class porn masquerading as art [ed., don't forget floating basketballs too!] I need. It looked like a very adequate market. I was especially interested in buying new potatoes, basil and baby zukes. The problem, when we left the market around 4 PM, about 1/2 the stands were packing up. We did buy fruit from Ellis and Nofke who swore they'd stay to the end. The MCA market is also the only market in the the Michigan Ave/Streeterville area. I'd have better things to say about it if it kept to its schedule.
Just today I was telling someone that one of the key challenges of eating local was the tracking down of one's food. I caveat-ed that by saying I, personally, find pleasure in the hunt, but I recognize that not everyone else does. I want people to adopt local eating. I have less of a need for people to adopt local eating challenges. Local eating will become less of a challenge when there are more options for getting local food, including farmer's markets that stay open late.
We had the perfect Tuesday afternoon planned. I spent the morning ably in work, completing a case, but perhaps the day's events were foreshadowed by a software glitch that prevented me from sending out this report. Rick Bayless, by way of Macy's 7th floor, left a bad taste in my mouth too. It cost me over $10 for slices of chicken breast (I'm not sure if a whole breast made it on my sandwich), a small container of salsa from a jar and a watery diet Coke. I gotta certain amount of love AND respect for Mr. Bayless. He is very local ya' know, but I also find, well, they never call hm Rick "Value" Bayless.
They may call me "Mr. Farmer's Market"(although my family also calls me Mr. Thin Slicer and Mr. Mirth Provider but that's neither here nor there to the point at hand). No one loves farmer's markets more than me. I've driven in horrible storms to get to Madison's market; braved sub-zero weather for a market in Ann Arbor. I'll get out of bed at the crack of dawn to ensure my Saturday includes a stop at the Oak Park market. These days, I'm at at least 2 markets a week. Because I am Mr. Farmer's Market I can criticize the hell out of them.
Really, I said that wrong. I don't mean to criticize farmer's markets. I mean to criticize the idea of farmer's markets. And it's not even farmer's markets I am criticizing. What I mean to say is that farmer's markets are a problem for the locavore. OK, what I mean to say, is that you should not have to rely soley on farmer's markets to eat local. Make sense yet? All I'm trying to get to is that it would be helpful if farmer's markets had hours that facilitated more people eating local. Like, for instance, how 'bout a market that was open on the way home from work, so you could be inspired by the bounty and then cook dinner.
The market at the MCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) is advertised as going to 6 PM. Back to my swimmingly planned day. The plan was that Mom and Older Daughter would take advantage of free Tuesdays to see the Jeff Koons exhibit, and Dad would get another market under his belt. I did a bit of recon while they got a head start on me--there's only so much high class porn masquerading as art [ed., don't forget floating basketballs too!] I need. It looked like a very adequate market. I was especially interested in buying new potatoes, basil and baby zukes. The problem, when we left the market around 4 PM, about 1/2 the stands were packing up. We did buy fruit from Ellis and Nofke who swore they'd stay to the end. The MCA market is also the only market in the the Michigan Ave/Streeterville area. I'd have better things to say about it if it kept to its schedule.
Just today I was telling someone that one of the key challenges of eating local was the tracking down of one's food. I caveat-ed that by saying I, personally, find pleasure in the hunt, but I recognize that not everyone else does. I want people to adopt local eating. I have less of a need for people to adopt local eating challenges. Local eating will become less of a challenge when there are more options for getting local food, including farmer's markets that stay open late.
Tuesday, July 01, 2008
The Return of the Brilliant One
Quite the week for the old team to rear its beautiful head. First, we got the launch of MikeG's Sky Full of Bacon; then I get an e-mail this afternoon that the linguistically over-qualified one, RST, is back to posting. His latest can be found on the 'hound (just like in the bad old days, and this post is about as classically RST as can be.). Maybe we'll here from Zim soon.
What's In Season Now - July
Remember, everything you read about seasonality but this is wrong (wink-wink). I'm not gonna do a full update for July yet because things have not changed much since the last report. Moreover, the full glory of summer, the peaches, the tomatoes, the cukes, have not arrived. Still, a couple of great products have just shown up.
- True, freshly dug new potatoes. A lot of shoppers like to think of any smaller, red or waxy potato as a new potato. We should reserve the term only for the real thing. These are potatoes dug within a day or so of vending. Unlike other potatoes, they are not cured (about 1/2 down the linked page). They do not have to be red either. Any potato can be eaten "new". The tell tale sign of a new potato is peeling skin from the farmer washing the potato. I'll post some pictures soon. Also, unlike other potatoes, new potatoes should be stored in the fridge and eaten soon after purchase. They are best cooked/dressed lightly.
- Tiny summer squash. I was just reading in Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's River Cottage Family book how vegetables do not ripen the way fruit does. They're there when they're there and ready when they are there. In other words a baby zucchini is no less and no more ripe than a mondo zucchini bread zucchini. Still, one tastes light and delicate and one, well, as I say, it's good for bread. This is the time for light and delicate.
On the downside, strawberries and asparagus are just, just about done.
Frittatine alle Verdue
With Eggs
In cooking, eggs often serve as a binder. For a locavore, eggs often serve as a binder too, bringing together the disparate ingredients one has obtained over the weeks. For a while I've been hankering to make frattanine alle erbe, tiny egg pancakes filled with greens and herbs. While I have greens in the Bungalow, I decided to make what I'm calling frittatine alle verdue, with vegetables instead as I mostly wanted to use some hanging around scallions and my large supply of garlic scapes. These made for a nice Sunday brunch, with a green salad on the side and challah from Friday night.
The mis en place is below, at least my attempt as such. As I noted the other day, I've been channeling my inner Italian Grandmother. I'm also trying to channel my inner Escofier these days as well. Notice the assortment of egg sizes from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers. Also, notice how I trimmed off some scraggy ends and long growing roots from my scallions.
I rough cut basil, scallions and scapes and sauteed them for about five minutes in olive oil over medium heat. Until soft but not ashen.
To make the frittatine, you crack one egg into a bowl. Mix with a fork. Season with a bit of salt, a shake of nutmeg cannot hurt if you got.
Lightly oil a small, heavy bottom pan, preferably cast iron, add a dollop of the verdue, then pour in the egg.
It took me several attempts to master or at least determine the right technique here. The idea is to make something akin to a crepe not an omelet. My problem was my pan was exactly the right size for the frittatine, but exactly the right size made flipping difficult. It was hard to get a spatula in under the eggs.
My tendency at first was to revert to French habits [ed. you?]. I used a fork to pull back the cooked eggs from the edge, letting some of the uncooked eggs fill-in. I wanted to fold the egg to cook the wet inside. Instead what I found was just be patient. Let the bottom cook long enough, over medium heat, to really firm up the whole thing. Then it was possible to slip the spatula in and give a good flip. Under this method, the second side needs only about 10 seconds.
I kept the frittatine in a 175 degree oven until I finished the dozen.
The finished product served with some grated (local) Parmesan style cheese and some salsa verde I've had around (freshening up a bit the other night with some new herbs).
In cooking, eggs often serve as a binder. For a locavore, eggs often serve as a binder too, bringing together the disparate ingredients one has obtained over the weeks. For a while I've been hankering to make frattanine alle erbe, tiny egg pancakes filled with greens and herbs. While I have greens in the Bungalow, I decided to make what I'm calling frittatine alle verdue, with vegetables instead as I mostly wanted to use some hanging around scallions and my large supply of garlic scapes. These made for a nice Sunday brunch, with a green salad on the side and challah from Friday night.
The mis en place is below, at least my attempt as such. As I noted the other day, I've been channeling my inner Italian Grandmother. I'm also trying to channel my inner Escofier these days as well. Notice the assortment of egg sizes from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers. Also, notice how I trimmed off some scraggy ends and long growing roots from my scallions.
I rough cut basil, scallions and scapes and sauteed them for about five minutes in olive oil over medium heat. Until soft but not ashen.
To make the frittatine, you crack one egg into a bowl. Mix with a fork. Season with a bit of salt, a shake of nutmeg cannot hurt if you got.
Lightly oil a small, heavy bottom pan, preferably cast iron, add a dollop of the verdue, then pour in the egg.
It took me several attempts to master or at least determine the right technique here. The idea is to make something akin to a crepe not an omelet. My problem was my pan was exactly the right size for the frittatine, but exactly the right size made flipping difficult. It was hard to get a spatula in under the eggs.My tendency at first was to revert to French habits [ed. you?]. I used a fork to pull back the cooked eggs from the edge, letting some of the uncooked eggs fill-in. I wanted to fold the egg to cook the wet inside. Instead what I found was just be patient. Let the bottom cook long enough, over medium heat, to really firm up the whole thing. Then it was possible to slip the spatula in and give a good flip. Under this method, the second side needs only about 10 seconds.
I kept the frittatine in a 175 degree oven until I finished the dozen.
The finished product served with some grated (local) Parmesan style cheese and some salsa verde I've had around (freshening up a bit the other night with some new herbs).
Monday, June 30, 2008
What Does a Sky Full of Bacon Taste Like?
There are a lot of us in the Chicago eater community with talent, at least in bits and pieces. Then, there are a few with real talent. MikeG's one of those guys. He's a master sketcher, designed the LTHForum logo, takes some mean photo's, but especially he's a master of the edit machine. You think he's just taping, but the end product looks like something you'd see on TV! A few years ago, he and fellow talent, David the Hat Hammond, made an outstanding documentary of the new Maxwell Street Market and its attendant eating pleasures called Gorilla Gourmet (buy a copy here). Mike's set his camera a-workin' on the Chicago food world, starting out with a topic near and dear to me, local eating. More, he showcases my pal Cassie Green of Green Grocer in the video. He plans on doing many more videos.
MikeG, also known as Mike Gebert's new site is Sky Full of Bacon. He blogs here and you can watch the eat local video here.
MikeG, also known as Mike Gebert's new site is Sky Full of Bacon. He blogs here and you can watch the eat local video here.
Martha Bayne Hate Watch
It's been ages since I've published any vehemence towards Ms. Bayne (who I've never met, but only heard nice things about) (more hateful stuff here). Now via, I learn that I'm gonna spend days, weeks, months, in glorious jealousy as Ms. Bayne ideals away with this stack of books living the good life in Washington Island, Wisconsin, eating fresh caught lawyers and downing shots of bitters--ostensibly to write a book. Yeah right. Your just rubbing it in mine and the rest of our faces.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
What List?
We swore we did not need much. We really only needed, emphasis on the need, one thing: garlic. But who could resist white carrots from Farmer Vicki's Genesis Growers? Our purchases were added to this list.
In other market spotting fava beans made their brief exposure here, at Nichol's Farm.
NB: Genesis Growers is at Green City Market Wednesday and Saturdays and Oak Park on Saturday. Nichol's market schedule here.
In other market spotting fava beans made their brief exposure here, at Nichol's Farm.
NB: Genesis Growers is at Green City Market Wednesday and Saturdays and Oak Park on Saturday. Nichol's market schedule here.
Eat Local Later
More stuff set aside. See running list here.
Also, to add to a post from the other day, a lot more peas went in to the freezer. Stover's cut us a great deal, $3.50/lb for 10 lbs of shelled peas.
Also, to add to a post from the other day, a lot more peas went in to the freezer. Stover's cut us a great deal, $3.50/lb for 10 lbs of shelled peas.
Friday, June 27, 2008
Thursday, June 26, 2008
The End of Inventory
Starting in December, 2007 I started tracking our inventory of local foods in the Bungalow. The intended purpose was to show how my family and I managed to stay local in the darkest months through a combination of winter marketing and stored foods. I proudly reported on our ability to manage. Since then, with market and CSA supplies, I've had less need to post on the inventory, and have not made an inventory post since early May.
Last night, in seeking some garlic for Asian night (Thai inspired recipes need garlic), I found all of the remainder of our garlic supply kaput. About twenty heads of garlic given over to dust, insects and various micro-organisms. When poking around the basement, I also found a bag of potatoes with the types of beards one grows if stranded on a deserted island. Both went into the compost bin, and they will soon be joined by sprouting onions. It was only a week or so ago that the last Michigan apples went into the camp lunch of my younger daughter. Our inventory served us well.
I have not done a great job of tracking/reporting on our local purchases from the CSA, farmer's markets, Cassie's Green Grocer and the like. For the duration of the market season, I have replaced the inventory tally on the sidebar with a running tally of the last two weeks (or so)purchases. I don't have the memory to re-create everything we have purchased lately, but here's a stab. It'll be more accurate after we get our CSA box later today.
Genesis Growers CSA - 6/19/08
Last night, in seeking some garlic for Asian night (Thai inspired recipes need garlic), I found all of the remainder of our garlic supply kaput. About twenty heads of garlic given over to dust, insects and various micro-organisms. When poking around the basement, I also found a bag of potatoes with the types of beards one grows if stranded on a deserted island. Both went into the compost bin, and they will soon be joined by sprouting onions. It was only a week or so ago that the last Michigan apples went into the camp lunch of my younger daughter. Our inventory served us well.
I have not done a great job of tracking/reporting on our local purchases from the CSA, farmer's markets, Cassie's Green Grocer and the like. For the duration of the market season, I have replaced the inventory tally on the sidebar with a running tally of the last two weeks (or so)purchases. I don't have the memory to re-create everything we have purchased lately, but here's a stab. It'll be more accurate after we get our CSA box later today.
Genesis Growers CSA - 6/19/08
- 2 heads of leaf lettuce
- Mesclun bag
- Asparagus
- Strawberries
- Savoy cabbage
- French breakfast radishes
- Daikon radish
- Kale
- Eggs
Oak Park Farmer's Market - 6/21/08
- Strawberries, sugar snaps, snow peas - Nicholl's Farm
- Cherries (sweet) - Hardin Farm
- Raspberries - Skibbes
- Peas - Stovers
- Mint, basil - Genesis Growers
- Garlic scapes, green garlic - Sandhill Organic
- Duck eggs - Wettstein's
Maywood Farmer's Market - 6/21/08
- Garlic scapes, organic chickens, dill - Midwest Organic Coop
- Strawberries - Unknown farmer
Whole Foods, River Forest - 6/21/08
- Farmer's All Natural Creamery Whole Milk
Genesis Grower's Farm - 6/22/08
- Zucchini flowers
Green Grocer - 6/24/08
- Tarragon
- Trader's Point Creamery Yogurt
- Barley
Genesis Growers CSA - 6/26/08
- Red "salad" turnips (with greens)
- 2 heads leaf lettuce
- 1 bag mesclun
- Kohlrabi (with greens)
- Kale
- Collard greens
- Sugar snap peas (a lot)
- Eggs
Hines VA Farmers Market (Maywood) - 6/26/08
- Raspberries, snow peas - Unidentified Michigan farm
- Strawberries (flat), sweet cherries - Hardin Farms
Kolatek's - 2445 N. Harlem - 6/27/08
- Farmer's All Natural Creamery 2% Milk
Oak Park Farmer's Market - 6/28/08
- Snow peas, green garlic stalks (with scapes) - Nichol's Farm
- Basil, white carrots, arugula - Genesis Growers
- Cherries - Hardin Farms
- Peas - Stover's
- Raspberries, blueberries - Skibbes
MCA Farmer's Market - 7/1/08
- Raspberries - Ellis Farms
- Blueberries, strawberries, new potatoes - Noffke Farm
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Will the Iceberg Cometh Again?
Last year, for one week in the spring, Farmer Vicki provided us iceberg lettuce in our CSA box. It was a lot of fun getting a head of iceberg. Sure, it's foodie maligned, but it tastes damn good too, especially against a heavy dressing or on certain types of sandwiches. Well maybe taste is not generally the word people associate with iceberg, it's not so much taste as fun crunch. Still, I have to add that Vicki's iceberg last year tasted as good as it crunched.
It's something you just do not see in our area farmer's markets. I was at Vicki's farm the other day, and I was asking her why no iceberg this year. She admitted that it was hard to grow, requiring cool weather, but she was also a bit interested in it as well. She followed up with this e-mail:
I'm looking forward.
It's something you just do not see in our area farmer's markets. I was at Vicki's farm the other day, and I was asking her why no iceberg this year. She admitted that it was hard to grow, requiring cool weather, but she was also a bit interested in it as well. She followed up with this e-mail:
Rob, Our discussion on iceberg lettuce has occupied my thinking a bit since Sunday. I stated very emphatically that I won't try it ever again. But, in my mind I heard Jaysen saying, "Right, Vicki." And the reality is that as soon as I see a seed catalog with a new variety that is said to withstand our particular problems, I will try it again. In fact, I think I might try a fall crop. I am not sure I have ever tried a late fall crop. It does best in cool temps, so it might do good if I plan it right. Just a thought, but I want to thank you for prompting me to rethink a crop I do truly love. I can sit and eat a whole head like an apple. I think it is the high mineral content that I love so much. So, anyway, hears to iceberg.
I'm looking forward.
Is Everything You Read About Food Miles Wrong?
I can see the backlash. Every movement that promotes a "we eat better" philosophy is bound to provoke. Some eating directives are just a question of will power. Eating local requires time and effort and probably a bit of money too. If you don't want to do it all, maybe you decide to attack the rationales instead. No rational seems more central to eating local than the concept of food miles. Eat local advocates stress that the less food has to travel, the better it is for the environment. As Jen Maiser, one of the leaders of the locavore movement references on her blog, food miles can even outweigh other farming practices:
Salon.com published the latest salvo on food miles. Roberta Kwok, a freelance science writer and a graduate student in the Science Communication program at U.C. Santa Cruz attempts to shows that food miles really don't matter that much, that they are a misleading statistic.
For one thing, it's a gross case of anecdotal evidence fallacy. I mean she did a survey, c'mon.
For another thing, those arguing in favor of efficient transportation flat out ignore the bits and pieces of their food chain. As I like to say, who picks up their New Zealand lamb at the port? [ed., and does the New Zealand lamb graze at the port?] The author recognizes that there may be something here.
Instead of doing the numbers taking into account all of the miles that industrial food really travels--farm to packager to distributor to regional warehouse to local warehouse, etc.; she trots out some other studies. There's a UK report that compares greenhouse grown tomatoes to imported Spanish tomatoes. And another by New Zealand researchers that tried to show that all those miles to market for their lamb don't mean a thing if the other guys use a ton of fossil fuel derived fertilizers. I find these again unconvincing, because they are cases of selective comparisons. Once more, let's stack Zealand lamb against Illinois grass fed lamb, not some historical farming practice.
A lot of the eat local backlash articles point out that food miles should not alone dissuade. The Salon author notes that reasons for eating local include freshness, taste and supporting regional economies. From my perspective, I am willing to concede that eating local is not wholly pure, that there is some energy cost associated with keeping my Michigan apples stored for my late season consumption. Nothing I have seen though makes me believe that eating local is not earth friendly. It is implicit in the eat local package that we are getting our food from vendors who practice sustainable farming. Regardless of all of that, I tend to believe there is something to this food miles thing. The less my food travels, the happier I am.
In a March 2005 study by the journal Food Policy, it was found that the miles that organic food often travels to our plate creates environmental damage that outweighs the benefit of buying organic.And this concept, food miles, is where the backlashers have lashed (mostly). I'm no environmental physicist. I have not crunched the numbers, and I recognize that there are complexities in life that make just food miles simplistic. I am not convinced, however, that the concept lacks merit.
Salon.com published the latest salvo on food miles. Roberta Kwok, a freelance science writer and a graduate student in the Science Communication program at U.C. Santa Cruz attempts to shows that food miles really don't matter that much, that they are a misleading statistic.
But what if conventional distributors make up for the long journeys by driving big trucks packed with produce? Let's say a distributor travels 1,000 miles and carries 1,000 apples to market, while 10 local farmers each drive a pickup 100 miles and carry 100 apples each.Seems seductive. Moreover, she finds it indeed true. She finds the visits a San Francisco farmer's market and finds it awash in small vehicles. She does the math.
But how does that translate to carbon dioxide emissions? To find out, I crunched the numbers on five types of produce -- apples, oranges, lettuce, greens and squash -- with fuel efficiency estimates from the Environmental Protection Agency and Bay Area truck dealers. Factor in carbon emission figures from Argonne National Laboratory, and I had rough carbon footprints for each farmer and wholesaler. Local farmers won one category, proving more carbon-friendly on squash. While farmers came from cities about an hour's drive from San Francisco, wholesalers had imported their squash through Arizona from Mexico. In these cases, the idea that more food miles equals more fossil fuels appeared to be true. But wholesalers beat local farmers on the four other produce items, boasting fewer average carbon dioxide emissions per pound of apples, oranges, lettuce and greens.Count me as unconvinced.
For one thing, it's a gross case of anecdotal evidence fallacy. I mean she did a survey, c'mon.
On my Saturday visit, I found that most of them drove Ford, Isuzu or Chevrolet trucks, packing anywhere between 200 and 2,000 pounds of goodsThere you go. Oddly enough, when I visit my farmer's market each week, I find most, if not all of the vendors coming to market in trucks, maybe not semi-trucks, but certainly the kinda vehicle I don't like driving. I notice the same thing at a lot of farmer's markets I visit. In other words, her experiment proves little.
For another thing, those arguing in favor of efficient transportation flat out ignore the bits and pieces of their food chain. As I like to say, who picks up their New Zealand lamb at the port? [ed., and does the New Zealand lamb graze at the port?] The author recognizes that there may be something here.
The Farmers Market's green image was beginning to look a bit tarnished. But no sooner did I finish my calculations than I started to wonder if I had missed some hidden carbon costs. For one, I'd asked the wholesalers how far their produce traveled to the terminal market -- but what about the extra leg from the terminal market to the retail store? For that matter, how much carbon dioxide was emitted while consolidating 45,000 pounds of produce from various farms into one semi-trailer truck? And how about the distance traveled by the consumers themselves, whether to the grocery store or to the Farmers Market? What kind of cars did they drive? Food researchers felt my pain. "There are so many complexities," says Holly Hill, author of a 2008 food miles review for the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. "Trying to make those real exact calculations is nearly impossible."Well, there you go. It's to darn hard to think about those other factors. We already have a conclusion that smugly fits into our balloon piercing. Yet, you cannot ignore all of these other factors, and you cannot pretend that food miles are overcome via efficiency when there are inefficiencies planted throughout the industrial food chain. Likewise, a lot of fuel used efficiently is still a lot of fuel used. There's no way you can find me a calculation that says that less fuel was used transporting New Zealand lamb to Chicago markets than it takes someone like Mint Creek, an Illinois lamb farm, to bring their lamb to market.
Instead of doing the numbers taking into account all of the miles that industrial food really travels--farm to packager to distributor to regional warehouse to local warehouse, etc.; she trots out some other studies. There's a UK report that compares greenhouse grown tomatoes to imported Spanish tomatoes. And another by New Zealand researchers that tried to show that all those miles to market for their lamb don't mean a thing if the other guys use a ton of fossil fuel derived fertilizers. I find these again unconvincing, because they are cases of selective comparisons. Once more, let's stack Zealand lamb against Illinois grass fed lamb, not some historical farming practice.
A lot of the eat local backlash articles point out that food miles should not alone dissuade. The Salon author notes that reasons for eating local include freshness, taste and supporting regional economies. From my perspective, I am willing to concede that eating local is not wholly pure, that there is some energy cost associated with keeping my Michigan apples stored for my late season consumption. Nothing I have seen though makes me believe that eating local is not earth friendly. It is implicit in the eat local package that we are getting our food from vendors who practice sustainable farming. Regardless of all of that, I tend to believe there is something to this food miles thing. The less my food travels, the happier I am.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Fryday
Eat Seasonal Foods - Zucchini Flowers
Some kinda random, somewhat unrelated thoughts. Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures I posted yesterday; between the two computers I use (sometimes three), I have about seven photo software programs. I use none of them very well. I realized recently, that I could change the size of the photos, and I figured I needed to do that because of the mondo pics I mostly litter this site with. In the software I used yesterday, I used the default size for web/blog, but it seems that the default is way to small and also seems to have awfully distorted the pics. To make amends, I went to take pictures of last night's fleur de calabaza, only to find the camera without battery power--this new Nikon seems to go through battery quickly. And the whole point of the zucchini flours is to talk again, as I have, about the need to develop relationships with farmers to enhance the locavore experience. After all, how many of you were allowed to grab about 50 zucchini flowers this weekend just for the asking? Anyways, on to the recipe.
OK, back to whining about the camera. I really wish I had pics here as I am really proud of this dish. Home frying is not the easiest of tasks. There is a certain amount of anachronism to local. One must become an Italian grandmother. That's where my older daughter and I thought we were going, as we had to get in the mental zone to patiently pull the stamens from all those flowers. But of course, we also imagined that Italian grandmothers could fry up zucchini blossoms with one hand tied behind their back. These came out as good.
OK, no one I do not think could do this with one hand tied behind their back. It is really a three handed process at least, which is where daughter really helped. Still, before her help, the help that really mattered came from another woman in the house, my wife. You see, last year when I fried up zucchini flowers, I did the batter the way I do most things in the kitchen. I winged it. That's what an Italian grandmother would do, no? When I asked my wife to help by making a batter, she did what she tends to do when cooking. Not wing it. She consulted several books. Of course about the first five recipes she found all call for letting the batter rest for a while, and we were getting to hungry to wait. She finally finds our friend Bittman who's been doing us good generally this year. The batter really made the dish happen. It was entirely greaseless in its eating.
Fried zucchini flowers as adapted from How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman and cooked with three hands.
A lot of zucchini flowers - stamens and stems removed
1 cup all purpose flour plus 1 cup for dredging
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 large egg
3/4th cup of beer
Good shake of cayenne pepper
Lightly mix all the batter ingredients--Bittman notes that it's OK to have some lumps in the batter. Ideally, a batter should rest, but what the hey.
Turn your oven on to 200.
Fill a large skillet with about an inch of pure olive oil, heat to 350 or to when a sprinkle of flour gets to sizzling.
With one hand, dredge some flowers in flower, shake off the excess.
With another hand, dip in batter, because the batter is thick, not too much should drip. Carefully drop the battered flowers in the oil.
With a clean hand on tongs, turn the flowers after about 3 minutes. Take out when lightly golden.
Season with salt.
Fry in batches, keeping them warm in the oven.
Some kinda random, somewhat unrelated thoughts. Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures I posted yesterday; between the two computers I use (sometimes three), I have about seven photo software programs. I use none of them very well. I realized recently, that I could change the size of the photos, and I figured I needed to do that because of the mondo pics I mostly litter this site with. In the software I used yesterday, I used the default size for web/blog, but it seems that the default is way to small and also seems to have awfully distorted the pics. To make amends, I went to take pictures of last night's fleur de calabaza, only to find the camera without battery power--this new Nikon seems to go through battery quickly. And the whole point of the zucchini flours is to talk again, as I have, about the need to develop relationships with farmers to enhance the locavore experience. After all, how many of you were allowed to grab about 50 zucchini flowers this weekend just for the asking? Anyways, on to the recipe.
OK, back to whining about the camera. I really wish I had pics here as I am really proud of this dish. Home frying is not the easiest of tasks. There is a certain amount of anachronism to local. One must become an Italian grandmother. That's where my older daughter and I thought we were going, as we had to get in the mental zone to patiently pull the stamens from all those flowers. But of course, we also imagined that Italian grandmothers could fry up zucchini blossoms with one hand tied behind their back. These came out as good.
OK, no one I do not think could do this with one hand tied behind their back. It is really a three handed process at least, which is where daughter really helped. Still, before her help, the help that really mattered came from another woman in the house, my wife. You see, last year when I fried up zucchini flowers, I did the batter the way I do most things in the kitchen. I winged it. That's what an Italian grandmother would do, no? When I asked my wife to help by making a batter, she did what she tends to do when cooking. Not wing it. She consulted several books. Of course about the first five recipes she found all call for letting the batter rest for a while, and we were getting to hungry to wait. She finally finds our friend Bittman who's been doing us good generally this year. The batter really made the dish happen. It was entirely greaseless in its eating.
Fried zucchini flowers as adapted from How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman and cooked with three hands.
A lot of zucchini flowers - stamens and stems removed
1 cup all purpose flour plus 1 cup for dredging
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 large egg
3/4th cup of beer
Good shake of cayenne pepper
Lightly mix all the batter ingredients--Bittman notes that it's OK to have some lumps in the batter. Ideally, a batter should rest, but what the hey.
Turn your oven on to 200.
Fill a large skillet with about an inch of pure olive oil, heat to 350 or to when a sprinkle of flour gets to sizzling.
With one hand, dredge some flowers in flower, shake off the excess.
With another hand, dip in batter, because the batter is thick, not too much should drip. Carefully drop the battered flowers in the oil.
With a clean hand on tongs, turn the flowers after about 3 minutes. Take out when lightly golden.
Season with salt.
Fry in batches, keeping them warm in the oven.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Maywood, Mangos, Midwest Organic and Mado to Boot
This is Loretta Brown. My wife and her are on the Board of West Suburban PADS. She makes dolls, which you can kinda see in the background. She has also organized a brand new farmer's market for Maywood, Illinois. I am always happy to see and support new markets. As they say in Maywood, this one's farmtastic.
Maywood is
lucky enough to also have in its residence the hardest working women in winter markets, who's slumming it this summer on behalf of the good people of the Midwest Organic Farmer's Cooperative, Robin Schimmer.
Robin's stocking the Maywood market with all range of good stuff, from local grain, to fruit and veg (local strawberries not pictured) to meats, even locally raised, sustainably farmed tilapia. If you can get one person to show up at your market, you can do no worse than have Robin and her variety of organic products from our own home state.
On this last weekend, Maywood offered two stands selling fruit. This farmer brought produce from Michigan.
Still, the world of local has not fully set in, and a man selling flats of mangos sold out his inventory first.
Mmm, our farmtastic day did not end at Maywood. We took the kidz for lunch at Mado, where Rob offers up sandwiches made with the same high quality farm-fresh ingredients as he does at dinner. While pork and lamb sammys tasted great, it pained me to look at the chalk board of dinner options and know that I could not have one. There was not a single dish on the menu that I did not want to eat. Rob had already driven my wife to buy duck eggs that day from the Wettsteins at the Oak Park Farmer's Market (yes, I confess we eat that market too, finding our first cherries!).
After lunch, I was counting all of the dishes I would attempt to re-create at home. Sugar snaps with pecorino and tagliatelli with garlic scapes, lemon and hot peppers are two that I have to try.The Maywood Farmer's Market is on the first and third Saturdays until October, 7 AM until 1 PM. It's located at St. Eulalia Church, 1851 S. 9th Avenue, 9th and the Eisenhower.
Mado is at 1647 N. Milwaukee, Chicago. (773) 342-2340
Freeze!
Eat Local Peas Later
As noted, peas are in the market. As noted, peas not only freeze well, they pretty much need to get chillin' if you cannot eat them within a few days of purchase. (My wife, after discovering that Hugh Fearnley–Whittingstall has pages and pages of composting in his books, has joined me in guruship-ness, and she reminds me this AM that Hugh sez that peas have a window of hours not days.) Peas take no processing to freeze. Just seal in a plastic bag. Freeze your peas and eat them later in the week. You'll thank me.
Stover's U Pick is a Michigan farm with stands at many Chicago area farmer's markets. They are also a Michigan farm in possession of a pea shucking machine. Two and two together, they provide not too expensive, easy to deal with, peas, a real seasonal treat. Get movin' and freeze.
As noted, peas are in the market. As noted, peas not only freeze well, they pretty much need to get chillin' if you cannot eat them within a few days of purchase. (My wife, after discovering that Hugh Fearnley–Whittingstall has pages and pages of composting in his books, has joined me in guruship-ness, and she reminds me this AM that Hugh sez that peas have a window of hours not days.) Peas take no processing to freeze. Just seal in a plastic bag. Freeze your peas and eat them later in the week. You'll thank me.
Stover's U Pick is a Michigan farm with stands at many Chicago area farmer's markets. They are also a Michigan farm in possession of a pea shucking machine. Two and two together, they provide not too expensive, easy to deal with, peas, a real seasonal treat. Get movin' and freeze.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Everything You Read About Seasonality is Wrong
Chicago Locavores
I'm all for fellow combatants fighting the good fight for local food, but I have a fatally low tolerance for seasonality guides that are off. For whatever reason, it makes me especially pissy when you send someone off to the market now looking for plums (plums are a fall fruit). I find it highly unlikely also that any area farmer's market will have horseradish now. I only like to show off a bit, but I really do believe that when it comes to knowing what's in season, I've got the best guide around to what's in season for Chicago area locavores.
The Chicago Locavore site also published a calender. I am not gonna edit it line by line, but in general, I find it, like most seasonality guides, to be quite off for Chicago farmer's markets. Some glaring errors: grapes in June; don't expect grapes until late September; kale in the heat of the summer, when kale's a cool weather crop; no turnips now when the markets are awash with them. Etc.
Seasonality guides tend to be off these days also because they are not recognizing indoor farming and winter markets, or are they? The calender noted above has some crops listed as in season in odd months like salsify for January--granted I have never seen a salsify plant in a local market, what do they mean by January. Is it a plant growing in January or a storage plant. I am not sure if the calender in general is referring to crops from storage, for instance when it covers potatoes in January or sunchokes in February it means storage right? but if it does, why are apples not listed for the winter months as keeper apples are surely around all winter. Likewise, the calender does not cover greenhouse crops that one can find through CSAs or winter markets. The shopper with access to those, or even a shopper who visits Cassie's Green Grocer, will find stuff in months not shown on this calender. Here's what was in season in April, March and February.
One final thought. I think a static calender, regardless of how good its sources are, is an imperfect vehicle for knowing what's out there. The problem is that seasonality changes each year based on weather and other factors. In general, our crops are quite behind this year because of the cold spring. In addition, the heavy rains have wrecked havoc on fields. A farmer today was telling me how her watermelons were destroyed in heavy rains and needed re-planting. When I am writing about seasonality, I am trying to base it on what's actually in season, on what I see at farmer's markets and what farmers and other vendors tell me. This means I may not be able to predict what you will totally see in a few months, but it will mean I should be able to predict what you'll see now.
I'm all for fellow combatants fighting the good fight for local food, but I have a fatally low tolerance for seasonality guides that are off. For whatever reason, it makes me especially pissy when you send someone off to the market now looking for plums (plums are a fall fruit). I find it highly unlikely also that any area farmer's market will have horseradish now. I only like to show off a bit, but I really do believe that when it comes to knowing what's in season, I've got the best guide around to what's in season for Chicago area locavores.
The Chicago Locavore site also published a calender. I am not gonna edit it line by line, but in general, I find it, like most seasonality guides, to be quite off for Chicago farmer's markets. Some glaring errors: grapes in June; don't expect grapes until late September; kale in the heat of the summer, when kale's a cool weather crop; no turnips now when the markets are awash with them. Etc.
Seasonality guides tend to be off these days also because they are not recognizing indoor farming and winter markets, or are they? The calender noted above has some crops listed as in season in odd months like salsify for January--granted I have never seen a salsify plant in a local market, what do they mean by January. Is it a plant growing in January or a storage plant. I am not sure if the calender in general is referring to crops from storage, for instance when it covers potatoes in January or sunchokes in February it means storage right? but if it does, why are apples not listed for the winter months as keeper apples are surely around all winter. Likewise, the calender does not cover greenhouse crops that one can find through CSAs or winter markets. The shopper with access to those, or even a shopper who visits Cassie's Green Grocer, will find stuff in months not shown on this calender. Here's what was in season in April, March and February.
One final thought. I think a static calender, regardless of how good its sources are, is an imperfect vehicle for knowing what's out there. The problem is that seasonality changes each year based on weather and other factors. In general, our crops are quite behind this year because of the cold spring. In addition, the heavy rains have wrecked havoc on fields. A farmer today was telling me how her watermelons were destroyed in heavy rains and needed re-planting. When I am writing about seasonality, I am trying to base it on what's actually in season, on what I see at farmer's markets and what farmers and other vendors tell me. This means I may not be able to predict what you will totally see in a few months, but it will mean I should be able to predict what you'll see now.
Friday, June 20, 2008
The Big Picture
Eat Local Later
I may not have much in common with Tony Soprano, but when he confesses to Dr. Melfi that he admires the Gary Cooper type. I nod. I may not exercise my anger quite in the same way as T, but I long to be a bit less temperamental. To help, my wife reminds me to look at the Big Picture. So, if a driver going North on Narragansett is going less than 20 mph as I work my way into the city, I should look at the Big Picture. I'll get to my destination, say Khan BBQ, soon enough. As I remarked the other day in my Foodways talk, the locavore needs to look at the Big Picture too. You cannot just focus on what's for dinner this week. You have to think about what will be for dinner in the weeks when there are no farmer's markets, no CSA deliveries.
My family is in luck because our CSA provider, Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers looks at the Big Picture too. The boxes she provides each week often contains more than can be expected to be finished that week. Farmer Vicki expects you to set aside when times are flush for times that are lean. This week, for instance, the box came with about 30 stalks of asparagus.
The easiest way to preserve vegetables for future use is to freeze them. The process of freezing them is hardly complex. Blanch, which means boil and then shock in cold water, for up to three minutes, essentially until the color of the veg intensifies. Let the vegetables cool as much as possible before bagging--if you put hot stuff in your freezer, it will raise the temperature in your freezer. Put in plastic bags. Try to squeeze as much air out of the bags as possible.
Frozen vegetables can be used in nearly all preparations, except for some salads. A few minutes in the microwave, a dab of butter, and you have a side dish. We have had success freezing most everything but tomatoes (although some say you can), and I would not try cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants, radishes or other watery veg. I would say avoid freezing vegetables that are actually fruits, but bell peppers freeze nicely if cut into strips (use for pasta). Still, some vegetables freeze especially well, and nicely enough, the vegetables that need to be eaten the soonest after harvest are also the ones that freeze the best. In other words, not only can you freeze these, you should freeze these (if you cannot eat them soon). These for freezing include peas, corn and asparagus.
I'm of the mind for freezing because my hard workin' wife froze some asparagus yesterday. Yes, dear reader, she does the work, I do the blog. You can read about what we have put away here. I'll update as we set aside more.
I may not have much in common with Tony Soprano, but when he confesses to Dr. Melfi that he admires the Gary Cooper type. I nod. I may not exercise my anger quite in the same way as T, but I long to be a bit less temperamental. To help, my wife reminds me to look at the Big Picture. So, if a driver going North on Narragansett is going less than 20 mph as I work my way into the city, I should look at the Big Picture. I'll get to my destination, say Khan BBQ, soon enough. As I remarked the other day in my Foodways talk, the locavore needs to look at the Big Picture too. You cannot just focus on what's for dinner this week. You have to think about what will be for dinner in the weeks when there are no farmer's markets, no CSA deliveries.
My family is in luck because our CSA provider, Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers looks at the Big Picture too. The boxes she provides each week often contains more than can be expected to be finished that week. Farmer Vicki expects you to set aside when times are flush for times that are lean. This week, for instance, the box came with about 30 stalks of asparagus.
The easiest way to preserve vegetables for future use is to freeze them. The process of freezing them is hardly complex. Blanch, which means boil and then shock in cold water, for up to three minutes, essentially until the color of the veg intensifies. Let the vegetables cool as much as possible before bagging--if you put hot stuff in your freezer, it will raise the temperature in your freezer. Put in plastic bags. Try to squeeze as much air out of the bags as possible.
Frozen vegetables can be used in nearly all preparations, except for some salads. A few minutes in the microwave, a dab of butter, and you have a side dish. We have had success freezing most everything but tomatoes (although some say you can), and I would not try cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants, radishes or other watery veg. I would say avoid freezing vegetables that are actually fruits, but bell peppers freeze nicely if cut into strips (use for pasta). Still, some vegetables freeze especially well, and nicely enough, the vegetables that need to be eaten the soonest after harvest are also the ones that freeze the best. In other words, not only can you freeze these, you should freeze these (if you cannot eat them soon). These for freezing include peas, corn and asparagus.
I'm of the mind for freezing because my hard workin' wife froze some asparagus yesterday. Yes, dear reader, she does the work, I do the blog. You can read about what we have put away here. I'll update as we set aside more.
The Raw Asparagus Food Movement Continues
I asked you the other day to join the raw asparagus movement. You may want to try the recipe I used last night.
A few stalks of purple asparagus, cut on a bias, thin
A few radishes, sliced likewise
A glop of fresh ricotta
1 TSP extra virgin olive oil (or so)
Salt and pepper to taste
Mush together
Serve on buttered bread
Note: scallions, green garlic or some herbs would be nice additions but I served this for me and my younger daughter who abhors "green things" in her food.
A few stalks of purple asparagus, cut on a bias, thin
A few radishes, sliced likewise
A glop of fresh ricotta
1 TSP extra virgin olive oil (or so)
Salt and pepper to taste
Mush together
Serve on buttered bread
Note: scallions, green garlic or some herbs would be nice additions but I served this for me and my younger daughter who abhors "green things" in her food.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
What's Local - Fox & Obel
Wanna see Chicago foodies go after each other. Get them talking about Chicago BBQ. About as bad can be a discussion on Chicago pizza, especially if you salt your match with people who grew up in other cities (cough-new york-cough). Unite them, ask them about the state of Chicago deli's. Manny's may be listed in the Encyclopedia Britannica as Institution, Kaufman's in Skokie may offer more than decent take-out and Max & Benny's thrives in Northbrook, but the foodies or the media elite so to speak (e.g., about anyone talking food on the Milt Rosenberg show) will lament the lack of deli's around here. What they really need to be lamenting is the lack of a grand gourmet store.
Fox & Obel jumped into the fray several years ago, with press releases a-blazin' and heavy inlay of capital on packaging, but never quite fulfilled its destiny. Now on its, and don't quote me on this, third ownership team, the store does a few things well. It can bake bread. It has, I believe, by far the best baguette in town. It has a great tasting wall of olive oil. Does it have local?
I cannot resist popping into F&O if I am in the neighborhood. Inspector Local found Michigan asparagus the other day, priced at $3.49/lb, about what Whole Foods has charged and not that different in price from what I saw yesterday for Mexican asparagus at Caputo's. That was it. Any place with aspirations of gourmet grandeur should know that greatness begins with ingredients and great ingredients begins with local. Put another way, if Cassie at her tiny Green Grocer can do it, why cannot they.
F&O was not totally lacking in local. They have a good selection of dairy, including cream from Farmer's All Natural Creamery. They were offering samples of Wisconsin's Pleasant Ridge Reserve the other day. Still, their cheese department pales when compared to Pastoral or Marian Street Cheese.
A couple of other observations. I like that they carry some cuts of Tallgrass beef besides steaks; the 21 day dry aged, prime beef looks worth their exorbitant prices. When the store opened, they made New York worthy displays of whole fish and seafood, but lately it's been a pathetic display of fillets. Likewise, the cured meats and sausages section has deteriorated. F&O introduced us to La Quercia hams from Iowa, yet they no longer carry them. I like their whitefish salad, but its price is such that I (almost always) resist. I greatly admire, but fully resist the various sides of smoked salmon, hand sliced to order. Perhaps all this looking but not buying has made Fox & Obel what it is today.
Fox & Obel Food
401 E. Illinois Street
Chicago, IL 60611
312.410.7301
Fox & Obel jumped into the fray several years ago, with press releases a-blazin' and heavy inlay of capital on packaging, but never quite fulfilled its destiny. Now on its, and don't quote me on this, third ownership team, the store does a few things well. It can bake bread. It has, I believe, by far the best baguette in town. It has a great tasting wall of olive oil. Does it have local?
I cannot resist popping into F&O if I am in the neighborhood. Inspector Local found Michigan asparagus the other day, priced at $3.49/lb, about what Whole Foods has charged and not that different in price from what I saw yesterday for Mexican asparagus at Caputo's. That was it. Any place with aspirations of gourmet grandeur should know that greatness begins with ingredients and great ingredients begins with local. Put another way, if Cassie at her tiny Green Grocer can do it, why cannot they.
F&O was not totally lacking in local. They have a good selection of dairy, including cream from Farmer's All Natural Creamery. They were offering samples of Wisconsin's Pleasant Ridge Reserve the other day. Still, their cheese department pales when compared to Pastoral or Marian Street Cheese.
A couple of other observations. I like that they carry some cuts of Tallgrass beef besides steaks; the 21 day dry aged, prime beef looks worth their exorbitant prices. When the store opened, they made New York worthy displays of whole fish and seafood, but lately it's been a pathetic display of fillets. Likewise, the cured meats and sausages section has deteriorated. F&O introduced us to La Quercia hams from Iowa, yet they no longer carry them. I like their whitefish salad, but its price is such that I (almost always) resist. I greatly admire, but fully resist the various sides of smoked salmon, hand sliced to order. Perhaps all this looking but not buying has made Fox & Obel what it is today.
Fox & Obel Food
401 E. Illinois Street
Chicago, IL 60611
312.410.7301
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
What's Local, Whole Foods
Credit Due Department
I still struggle to find much local at the Whole Foods I most frequent, River Forest, Illinois. On the other hand, I have heard that the Whole Foods at Cicero and Peterson in Chicago carries more local. This, though, appears to be a Whole Foods with local on the mind.
I still struggle to find much local at the Whole Foods I most frequent, River Forest, Illinois. On the other hand, I have heard that the Whole Foods at Cicero and Peterson in Chicago carries more local. This, though, appears to be a Whole Foods with local on the mind.
Evanston's Ridgeville Farmer's Market
Save This Market!
All markets should have a blog this nice. The Ridgeville Farmer's Market in Evanston sez:
What's the word for me? Addict, junkie, deranged, enraptured, hobbyist, dilettante, ardourist, advocate, compulsive, zealot; In a ten day span I've been to eight farmer's markets. I like farmer's markets. Yet, I find them imperfect vehicles to support the locavore. Leaving aside the issue of selection, my biggest concern is the hours of the markets. Are markets really there when you need them? A lot of suburban markets are during the week but in the morning. On the other hand, many more markets are during the weekend, but this is the time when people tend to go out to eat. The Chicago area needs farmer's markets at various times.
The Ridgeville market is one, mid-week with late hours. I would love a market like this closer to me. Yet, my contention that markets like this are needed seems not to be holding. MHays on LTHForum.com wrote nicely about the market last year. She took pictures to back her up. She comes back this year to report her good works have not been well received. The market is down to four vendors. Another LTH poster noted the market was a bit sad. The area PTO is trying to revive interest. We need markets like this.
I'll try to visit soon. In the meantime, give this market a whorl.
All markets should have a blog this nice. The Ridgeville Farmer's Market in Evanston sez:
In creating a mid-week market, the Ridgeville Farmers’ Market hopes to make an environmentally sustainable lifestyle and connection to organic and locally-produced foods a realizable possibility for the community in south Evanston – as well as for Chicagoans from all over the city. Ridgeville Park is within walking distance from the South Blvd. stop on the Purple Line CTA, as well as the Main St. Metra station. The Recyclery of Evanston will be at the market on the last Wednesday of each month, offering free tune-ups and minor adjustments to those who travel via bicycle.
What's the word for me? Addict, junkie, deranged, enraptured, hobbyist, dilettante, ardourist, advocate, compulsive, zealot; In a ten day span I've been to eight farmer's markets. I like farmer's markets. Yet, I find them imperfect vehicles to support the locavore. Leaving aside the issue of selection, my biggest concern is the hours of the markets. Are markets really there when you need them? A lot of suburban markets are during the week but in the morning. On the other hand, many more markets are during the weekend, but this is the time when people tend to go out to eat. The Chicago area needs farmer's markets at various times.
The Ridgeville market is one, mid-week with late hours. I would love a market like this closer to me. Yet, my contention that markets like this are needed seems not to be holding. MHays on LTHForum.com wrote nicely about the market last year. She took pictures to back her up. She comes back this year to report her good works have not been well received. The market is down to four vendors. Another LTH poster noted the market was a bit sad. The area PTO is trying to revive interest. We need markets like this.
I'll try to visit soon. In the meantime, give this market a whorl.
The Raw Asparagus Food Movement
Eat Seasonal Food
I confess that there are years where I have tired of asparagus. The mantra of the seasonal eater is to gorge for the time being then forgetaboutit. This year it seems that we have not so much gorged on asparagus as maintained a steady path. A reason for this, I know, is that the cool and the rains of this year's spring delayed the crop. Last year, we were getting Genesis Growers Illinois asparagus by late April, so you could see how I could tire of it by June. This year, asparagus did not really get flowing until Mid-May. Another reason for my lack of asparagus ennui is that we have added a new preparation to our repertoire.
Or shall I say, lack of preparation to our repertoire. Asparagus supports a lot of cooking methods. It is equally good roasted, grilled, steamed, boiled or sauteed. None of these methods are especially difficult. Yet, how often are we avoiding these for the easiest method of all. No method. Raw. I think a lot of chefs, especially, looked at the deep purple asparagus found in the farmer's markets--Michigan farmers Stovers and Klug both carry--and said how can we maintain that. It's pretty hard to keep the purple once it's cooked, so the chefs did not cook. No one gagged. If you are afraid raw asparagus will be too tough or stringy, do not worry. When you get asparagus at the local markets the asparagus is not the least bit stringy, only the ends are too tough.
A mandoline or great knife skills can achieve thin slices that really accentuate the contrast between deep purple exterior and bright green interior. It's like a 60's black light poster. Still, if you cut them chunkier you will not lose any taste. Leave them whole and they make nice vehicles for dips. Sliced, use any available dressing, although I would advise you dress on the light side. This is not your wedge of iceberg.
Asparagus will not be around too much longer. Gorge now while you can.
I confess that there are years where I have tired of asparagus. The mantra of the seasonal eater is to gorge for the time being then forgetaboutit. This year it seems that we have not so much gorged on asparagus as maintained a steady path. A reason for this, I know, is that the cool and the rains of this year's spring delayed the crop. Last year, we were getting Genesis Growers Illinois asparagus by late April, so you could see how I could tire of it by June. This year, asparagus did not really get flowing until Mid-May. Another reason for my lack of asparagus ennui is that we have added a new preparation to our repertoire.
Or shall I say, lack of preparation to our repertoire. Asparagus supports a lot of cooking methods. It is equally good roasted, grilled, steamed, boiled or sauteed. None of these methods are especially difficult. Yet, how often are we avoiding these for the easiest method of all. No method. Raw. I think a lot of chefs, especially, looked at the deep purple asparagus found in the farmer's markets--Michigan farmers Stovers and Klug both carry--and said how can we maintain that. It's pretty hard to keep the purple once it's cooked, so the chefs did not cook. No one gagged. If you are afraid raw asparagus will be too tough or stringy, do not worry. When you get asparagus at the local markets the asparagus is not the least bit stringy, only the ends are too tough.
A mandoline or great knife skills can achieve thin slices that really accentuate the contrast between deep purple exterior and bright green interior. It's like a 60's black light poster. Still, if you cut them chunkier you will not lose any taste. Leave them whole and they make nice vehicles for dips. Sliced, use any available dressing, although I would advise you dress on the light side. This is not your wedge of iceberg.
Asparagus will not be around too much longer. Gorge now while you can.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
What's In Season Now - June
(Update below)
We are more than half-way through the month, and I am just getting around to posting my guide to what's in season. (Last month's guide here.) You may think I am lazy. You may think I promise more than I produce, but there is a good, decent reason for waiting this long. The market, the what's in season, starts to change big time around now. In other words, up until a week or so ago, the market looked mostly like May and even a bit like April. About now, mid-June, is when new crops start rolling. To a large extent, mid to late June is our season of "Spring" crops around here. The locavore should be able to find the following:
Last Leggers
Those harvesting asparagus from Illinois and points south like my friend Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers are mostly out of the crop, but those from further north, like the Michigan farmers, still have plenty. Expect to see asparagus in the markets through the month. The hearty, cool weather greens such as kale and spinach are likewise still around. Radishes don't thrive once we reach our summer heat, so get them now too. Rhubarb grows early and then lasts for a while. Buyers tend to gravitate to it when there is not much else around, but it will be around still.
First Arrivers
Strawberries have been in our markets for a few weeks now, expect a few weeks more. Like asparagus, the Michigan crops will last a bit longer. Cherries should show up before the end of the month and probably raspberries. Last week was the week that peas in their forms showed up, shelling peas, sugar snaps and snow peas. If you want your pea in leaf form, some farmers are selling the pea tendrils.
Farm Fresh
These are the types of crops you will see most of the season at various stands. Farmers started planting these crops as the weather warmed, and they harvest them as they bloom: broccoli, cauliflower, beets, arugula, fennel, swiss chard, lettuces (until it gets really hot), kohlrabi, carrots; zucchini and cucumbers (soon).
Alliums
Most of the onions are still young as in spring onions or scallions, but I expect fuller summer onions to be around soon. Garlic is maturing a bit, the green garlic stalks you may see have a more bulb to them, and you will now see the sprouting scapes in the market.
Mushrooms
Organic cultivator of mushrooms, River Valley of Wisconsin, shows up in tons of markets around Chicago. They will always have portabellas, baby bellas or crimini's, and white button mushrooms and most likely oyster and shitakes. They've had fresh porcini's. I've been told that they are local, but someone else was told they are not.
Asian
If you go to farmer's markets in Wisconsin and Minnesota, you will find many stands fun by Hmong farmers. They bring a variety of Asian vegetables to their markets. In the Chicago area, Nichol's Farm, Genesis Growers and Green Acres Farm grow some Asian vegetables. Green Acres Farm at Green City Market and Evanston will surely have the most, so if interested check their stand. Otherwise, you might be able to find some bok choy, baby or mature; tat soi, mizuna or napa cabbage at a market near you.
Italian
What Green Acres is to Asian, Kinnikinnick Farm is to Italian veg. At their stand at Green City and Evanston, expect to find Italian cooking greens that you will not see elsewhere. Nichol's grows rapini.
Herbs and Hot Peppers
Mint, cilantro, rosemary, basil, chives; these are the mostly likely herbs this time of year, but I've found lovage, oregano, cayenne peppers, lavender, sage and savory at various markets.
Old Stuff
Nichol's Farm is still selling last year's potatoes and they are still plenty good. There may be apples around, but I have not seen them. Ellis Farms, at their stand at the Hyde Park Farmer's Market (Thursdays) had shelled black walnuts (!).
A report on early July arrivers here.
We are more than half-way through the month, and I am just getting around to posting my guide to what's in season. (Last month's guide here.) You may think I am lazy. You may think I promise more than I produce, but there is a good, decent reason for waiting this long. The market, the what's in season, starts to change big time around now. In other words, up until a week or so ago, the market looked mostly like May and even a bit like April. About now, mid-June, is when new crops start rolling. To a large extent, mid to late June is our season of "Spring" crops around here. The locavore should be able to find the following:
Last Leggers
Those harvesting asparagus from Illinois and points south like my friend Farmer Vicki of Genesis Growers are mostly out of the crop, but those from further north, like the Michigan farmers, still have plenty. Expect to see asparagus in the markets through the month. The hearty, cool weather greens such as kale and spinach are likewise still around. Radishes don't thrive once we reach our summer heat, so get them now too. Rhubarb grows early and then lasts for a while. Buyers tend to gravitate to it when there is not much else around, but it will be around still.
First Arrivers
Strawberries have been in our markets for a few weeks now, expect a few weeks more. Like asparagus, the Michigan crops will last a bit longer. Cherries should show up before the end of the month and probably raspberries. Last week was the week that peas in their forms showed up, shelling peas, sugar snaps and snow peas. If you want your pea in leaf form, some farmers are selling the pea tendrils.
Farm Fresh
These are the types of crops you will see most of the season at various stands. Farmers started planting these crops as the weather warmed, and they harvest them as they bloom: broccoli, cauliflower, beets, arugula, fennel, swiss chard, lettuces (until it gets really hot), kohlrabi, carrots; zucchini and cucumbers (soon).
Alliums
Most of the onions are still young as in spring onions or scallions, but I expect fuller summer onions to be around soon. Garlic is maturing a bit, the green garlic stalks you may see have a more bulb to them, and you will now see the sprouting scapes in the market.
Mushrooms
Organic cultivator of mushrooms, River Valley of Wisconsin, shows up in tons of markets around Chicago. They will always have portabellas, baby bellas or crimini's, and white button mushrooms and most likely oyster and shitakes. They've had fresh porcini's. I've been told that they are local, but someone else was told they are not.
Asian
If you go to farmer's markets in Wisconsin and Minnesota, you will find many stands fun by Hmong farmers. They bring a variety of Asian vegetables to their markets. In the Chicago area, Nichol's Farm, Genesis Growers and Green Acres Farm grow some Asian vegetables. Green Acres Farm at Green City Market and Evanston will surely have the most, so if interested check their stand. Otherwise, you might be able to find some bok choy, baby or mature; tat soi, mizuna or napa cabbage at a market near you.
Italian
What Green Acres is to Asian, Kinnikinnick Farm is to Italian veg. At their stand at Green City and Evanston, expect to find Italian cooking greens that you will not see elsewhere. Nichol's grows rapini.
Herbs and Hot Peppers
Mint, cilantro, rosemary, basil, chives; these are the mostly likely herbs this time of year, but I've found lovage, oregano, cayenne peppers, lavender, sage and savory at various markets.
Old Stuff
Nichol's Farm is still selling last year's potatoes and they are still plenty good. There may be apples around, but I have not seen them. Ellis Farms, at their stand at the Hyde Park Farmer's Market (Thursdays) had shelled black walnuts (!).
A report on early July arrivers here.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Mado
Eat Local Out
On Saturday, the Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance was generous enough to let me lecture on eating local. During the question period, someone asked about eating local out. First, I realized I had glossed over the part in my speech where I said I limit my eating local to eating in, that I still enjoy the wealth of interesting restaurants around Chicago (see this meal for example). Then, when talking about local restaurants serving local, I went on for a bit about Lula's Cafe, in Logan Square, where I had had sous vide rhubarb the week before. My wife, in the front row, was mouthing to me, Vie, Vie. She's was making little victory signs with her fingers if I could not read her lips. She was afraid that if Paul Virant hears the speech when it's podcast by WBEZ (I'll post the details when I know), he'd be offended (or at least disappointed) that I did not mention his place. To my wife's relief, I spent a minute or so kvelling about Vie. I never did mention Rob and Allison Levitt of Mado. My bad. Any discussion of eating local out must include them and their restaurant Mado. I bet within a few months, any discussion of eating local out will begin with them.
Diligent readers of this blog will know that I've entertained the idea of opening a restaurant. If I did, it would not be quite like Mado--I'd like a more classic decor: tile floor, wood booths than Mado's spare style, and our cuisine would be a bit more Midwestern, haute farm, than Mado's Mediterranean focus, but in spirit, we'd be Mado. I SO admire what they are doing and how they are doing it. Buying local. Changing the menu frequently to reflect the buys, the seasons, the offerings; using the whole beast, butchering their own animals, making use of each part. On one visit I had lamb belly. Every have lamb belly? Try Mado.
It's already cliche to begin a Mado review by telling the audience they will not eat the same food as the reviewer. That's not really true. I've been to Mado twice, and both times had the bruschetta con pulpo, braised octopus, seasoned with a bit of red chile, on toast. Mike Sula at the Reader found the dish "off-key", but I've enjoyed it each time. Rob must do a lot of slamming of his octo, because it's never been the least bit tough. My second try with this dish received a bit less chile, a slight shame, as this item can support a fair amount of spice-heat. I would order it again, and I bet you can too. Likewise, you will probably find some type of headcheese, translated to the Italian testa, to assuage the squeamish, on the day's menu. In fact, Rob told me that Crain's Chicago Business is doing an article on him and Paul Virant and headcheese. Sic! And, and in fact, in a few week's Rob's gonna make headcheese (or something) from the head of the hog we've purchased from the Wettstein's. Get the headcheese. Mado's methods limit the jelly aspect of the dish. Instead you get nicely seasoned, meat made into neat shapes, square once, ribbons another.
Another thing you might have heard about Mado is that it's maybe a bit on the pricey; not so much pricey but small portions for the money. I disagree with that too. I think their prices/portions are eminently fair, and I've walked away twice finding my bill much less than I believe it should have been. Mado prices their chaucuterie at $4 each or 4 for $15. I've tried several items in this category. The slabs are big enough to fully enjoy, and rich enough you don't want more. A half order of pasta, I've tried a ramp stuffed ravioli, is worth adding $8 to the bill. Dinners come with a side, but are already portioned with sides. I will confess that my very, very favorite thing I have eaten at Mado were the two sides that came with our fish last Saturday: thinly sliced raw Michigan asparagus, lightly dressed, and English peas, with a dab of butter [or what I thought was butter, see comments below]. I have never left Mado hungry, nor feeling gypped in any way.
I do have my quibbles. We can all quibble, no? In between my first and second visits to Mado, I ran into Rob at Red Hen Bakery. My wife was aghast that practically the first thing out of my mouth to Rob after "hi" was, "funny seeing you in Red Hen as you need to serve some bread." He does. Mado's food is spare and intense. He does not need bread so much to mop up sauces as to give a bit of palate relief. This was especially true for the rabbit pate we had the other night. My next quibble would be that Rob has a heavy hand with salt. I can understand why he uses it. It's the same issue as the bread. The richness is such that salt cuts. Still, sometimes, I would like just a wee bit less. It's a fine line, and maybe I'd rather him be at edge and fall over than undersalt this kinda food. Finally, I would say, richness aside, a sauce, a bit of sauce would not be the worst thing. For instance, on Saturday, we had pike, cooked just fine, perfect; moist, crisp skin. Yet, pike is a very mild fish. It begged for a beurre blanc (although my wife sez, "I disagree totally"). Likewise, on my first visit, I had the lamb belly as noted above. It was very much in the same vein as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's lamb breast St. Ménéhould, long cooked, then breaded and fried. Only Hugh gilds the lily with a tarter sauce. Rob leaves the breaded lamb meat on its own. I liked Rob's spicing and he fried it well, but I would have liked the sauce.
So, Mado and She's Cooking will not be the same restaurant, but good natured rivals. Until my place opens, I'll be eating a lot at Mado. I will certainly mentioned them more, next talk I give.
On Saturday, the Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance was generous enough to let me lecture on eating local. During the question period, someone asked about eating local out. First, I realized I had glossed over the part in my speech where I said I limit my eating local to eating in, that I still enjoy the wealth of interesting restaurants around Chicago (see this meal for example). Then, when talking about local restaurants serving local, I went on for a bit about Lula's Cafe, in Logan Square, where I had had sous vide rhubarb the week before. My wife, in the front row, was mouthing to me, Vie, Vie. She's was making little victory signs with her fingers if I could not read her lips. She was afraid that if Paul Virant hears the speech when it's podcast by WBEZ (I'll post the details when I know), he'd be offended (or at least disappointed) that I did not mention his place. To my wife's relief, I spent a minute or so kvelling about Vie. I never did mention Rob and Allison Levitt of Mado. My bad. Any discussion of eating local out must include them and their restaurant Mado. I bet within a few months, any discussion of eating local out will begin with them.
Diligent readers of this blog will know that I've entertained the idea of opening a restaurant. If I did, it would not be quite like Mado--I'd like a more classic decor: tile floor, wood booths than Mado's spare style, and our cuisine would be a bit more Midwestern, haute farm, than Mado's Mediterranean focus, but in spirit, we'd be Mado. I SO admire what they are doing and how they are doing it. Buying local. Changing the menu frequently to reflect the buys, the seasons, the offerings; using the whole beast, butchering their own animals, making use of each part. On one visit I had lamb belly. Every have lamb belly? Try Mado.
It's already cliche to begin a Mado review by telling the audience they will not eat the same food as the reviewer. That's not really true. I've been to Mado twice, and both times had the bruschetta con pulpo, braised octopus, seasoned with a bit of red chile, on toast. Mike Sula at the Reader found the dish "off-key", but I've enjoyed it each time. Rob must do a lot of slamming of his octo, because it's never been the least bit tough. My second try with this dish received a bit less chile, a slight shame, as this item can support a fair amount of spice-heat. I would order it again, and I bet you can too. Likewise, you will probably find some type of headcheese, translated to the Italian testa, to assuage the squeamish, on the day's menu. In fact, Rob told me that Crain's Chicago Business is doing an article on him and Paul Virant and headcheese. Sic! And, and in fact, in a few week's Rob's gonna make headcheese (or something) from the head of the hog we've purchased from the Wettstein's. Get the headcheese. Mado's methods limit the jelly aspect of the dish. Instead you get nicely seasoned, meat made into neat shapes, square once, ribbons another.
Another thing you might have heard about Mado is that it's maybe a bit on the pricey; not so much pricey but small portions for the money. I disagree with that too. I think their prices/portions are eminently fair, and I've walked away twice finding my bill much less than I believe it should have been. Mado prices their chaucuterie at $4 each or 4 for $15. I've tried several items in this category. The slabs are big enough to fully enjoy, and rich enough you don't want more. A half order of pasta, I've tried a ramp stuffed ravioli, is worth adding $8 to the bill. Dinners come with a side, but are already portioned with sides. I will confess that my very, very favorite thing I have eaten at Mado were the two sides that came with our fish last Saturday: thinly sliced raw Michigan asparagus, lightly dressed, and English peas, with a dab of butter [or what I thought was butter, see comments below]. I have never left Mado hungry, nor feeling gypped in any way.
I do have my quibbles. We can all quibble, no? In between my first and second visits to Mado, I ran into Rob at Red Hen Bakery. My wife was aghast that practically the first thing out of my mouth to Rob after "hi" was, "funny seeing you in Red Hen as you need to serve some bread." He does. Mado's food is spare and intense. He does not need bread so much to mop up sauces as to give a bit of palate relief. This was especially true for the rabbit pate we had the other night. My next quibble would be that Rob has a heavy hand with salt. I can understand why he uses it. It's the same issue as the bread. The richness is such that salt cuts. Still, sometimes, I would like just a wee bit less. It's a fine line, and maybe I'd rather him be at edge and fall over than undersalt this kinda food. Finally, I would say, richness aside, a sauce, a bit of sauce would not be the worst thing. For instance, on Saturday, we had pike, cooked just fine, perfect; moist, crisp skin. Yet, pike is a very mild fish. It begged for a beurre blanc (although my wife sez, "I disagree totally"). Likewise, on my first visit, I had the lamb belly as noted above. It was very much in the same vein as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's lamb breast St. Ménéhould, long cooked, then breaded and fried. Only Hugh gilds the lily with a tarter sauce. Rob leaves the breaded lamb meat on its own. I liked Rob's spicing and he fried it well, but I would have liked the sauce.
So, Mado and She's Cooking will not be the same restaurant, but good natured rivals. Until my place opens, I'll be eating a lot at Mado. I will certainly mentioned them more, next talk I give.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Asparagus, Sauce Mimosa
Eat Seasonal Food
The other day, I mentioned that I am an invariant collector of free publications. I am also a collector of herbs. A hobby that costs me a bit more, but not too much more. It's also a hobby that drives me a bit batty. Tomorrow night we have to have beans with dinner because savory is the bean herb. We have savory. We have lovage. Not borage. Lovage's primary claim to fame is it's membership in the 'age family of herbs. Who uses lovage? It looks like a disproportionate stalk of parsley and tastes, as adequately described somewhere on the web, as a cross between celery and anise. You don't miss lovage. In other words, when my wife said to me today, "I used lovage in the asparagus, sauce mimosa." I said, "I know."
Sauce Mimosa
2 hard boiled eggs (we like ours just barely set, about 8 minutes)
Juice of 1 lemon or key lime
1 TBSP Sherry Vinegar
Olive oil
Minced herbs, lovage if you got it
Separate the white from the yolk with the egg. Mince both. Mush the egg yolk in a small bowl with the lemon juice and sherry vinegar, drizzle in some oil to make a thick sauce. Add the chopped egg whites and minced herbs to the bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Spoon over cooked asparagus.
The other day, I mentioned that I am an invariant collector of free publications. I am also a collector of herbs. A hobby that costs me a bit more, but not too much more. It's also a hobby that drives me a bit batty. Tomorrow night we have to have beans with dinner because savory is the bean herb. We have savory. We have lovage. Not borage. Lovage's primary claim to fame is it's membership in the 'age family of herbs. Who uses lovage? It looks like a disproportionate stalk of parsley and tastes, as adequately described somewhere on the web, as a cross between celery and anise. You don't miss lovage. In other words, when my wife said to me today, "I used lovage in the asparagus, sauce mimosa." I said, "I know."
Sauce Mimosa
2 hard boiled eggs (we like ours just barely set, about 8 minutes)Juice of 1 lemon or key lime
1 TBSP Sherry Vinegar
Olive oil
Minced herbs, lovage if you got it
Separate the white from the yolk with the egg. Mince both. Mush the egg yolk in a small bowl with the lemon juice and sherry vinegar, drizzle in some oil to make a thick sauce. Add the chopped egg whites and minced herbs to the bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Spoon over cooked asparagus.
Soon to be Less Obscure Farmer's Markets of Illinois
Maywood
Today's CTrib, at least my edition, features a nice big picture of my friend Robin "Winter" selling at the inaugural Maywood farmer's market last week. As the accompanying article notes, the market is helping fill the void in fresh produce in Maywood. Robin told me that she was successful in her first market foray, selling cheese, fish, and produce collected by the Illinois based Midwest Organic Food Coop. "They were there to buy", she said.
I had planned on visiting Maywood, but other committments kept me. I am anxious to visit their next market a week from Saturday. The farmtastic Maywood market runs on the first and third Saturdays through October at St. Eulalia Church 1851 S. 9th Avenue, Maywood.
Today's CTrib, at least my edition, features a nice big picture of my friend Robin "Winter" selling at the inaugural Maywood farmer's market last week. As the accompanying article notes, the market is helping fill the void in fresh produce in Maywood. Robin told me that she was successful in her first market foray, selling cheese, fish, and produce collected by the Illinois based Midwest Organic Food Coop. "They were there to buy", she said.
I had planned on visiting Maywood, but other committments kept me. I am anxious to visit their next market a week from Saturday. The farmtastic Maywood market runs on the first and third Saturdays through October at St. Eulalia Church 1851 S. 9th Avenue, Maywood.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Eat Local Meat
Cutting Instructions for 1/2 Hog
As I have mentioned before, the easiest and best way to ensure the eating of local meat is to purchase it in bulk, as whole, half or quarter animals. This web site can locate you farmers in Illinois for your whole hog, etc. You can find other sites on the Internet for sides of meat from Wisconsin, Michigan and Indiana. Although we have plenty of beef and lamb from our previous forays, we (mostly I) decided to supplement, nay add, with a 1/2 hog from Dennis and Emily Wettstein's organic farm.
A processed cow produces nothing if not a lot of hamburger, and when every last steak, roast, soup bone and bit of offal from our cow is eaten, we will still, have, I believe, hamburger. (Next cow we get, my wife insists we ask for stew meat too.) The lady at Eureka Locker, who is processing our pork, told me that pork is not so wasteful. There is trim, but it has to be used in a tidy way. At least she wanted it tidy. None of this, make a bit of brats, a bit of fresh sausage and the rest as ground pork. Trim needed to be proportioned evenly. Here's how we portioned our trim and divvied up the rest of the 1/2 hog, which is coming in at around 150 lbs:
As I have mentioned before, the easiest and best way to ensure the eating of local meat is to purchase it in bulk, as whole, half or quarter animals. This web site can locate you farmers in Illinois for your whole hog, etc. You can find other sites on the Internet for sides of meat from Wisconsin, Michigan and Indiana. Although we have plenty of beef and lamb from our previous forays, we (mostly I) decided to supplement, nay add, with a 1/2 hog from Dennis and Emily Wettstein's organic farm.
A processed cow produces nothing if not a lot of hamburger, and when every last steak, roast, soup bone and bit of offal from our cow is eaten, we will still, have, I believe, hamburger. (Next cow we get, my wife insists we ask for stew meat too.) The lady at Eureka Locker, who is processing our pork, told me that pork is not so wasteful. There is trim, but it has to be used in a tidy way. At least she wanted it tidy. None of this, make a bit of brats, a bit of fresh sausage and the rest as ground pork. Trim needed to be proportioned evenly. Here's how we portioned our trim and divvied up the rest of the 1/2 hog, which is coming in at around 150 lbs:
- Leg - boned, cured and smoked; after the smoking, they will cut two center ham steaks, leaving us two whole ham roasts. I plan on slicing at least one, maybe both of the ham roasts as lunch meats and re-packaging them in smaller baggies. Organic cure.
- Hocks (2) - cured and smoked (organic)
- Shoulder - One larger cut, 8-10 lb for a BBQ pulled pork; the rest of the shoulder cut into 5ish lb roasts
- Belly - 1/2 cured and smoked (organic), 1/2 left fresh, packaged in one pound cuts
- Spareribs - 3 or so lbs worth
- Loin - One larger roast and the rest cut into chops 1.5 inches thick. I had wanted to get the chops cut in range of thicknesses, some thinner. The locker woman originally said she could do that, but as we talked it seemed easier to go with one size fits all. Because I asked for bone-in chops and roast, there is no baby back ribs
- Offal - The nature of small America lockers does not allow for too much nose-to-tail eating. I am not quite sure all the reasons. We get the heart, liver and kidneys, that's it. See below for a bit of head talk. I wanted the feet for braises and the tail to use for beans or greens. Neither was available to us and forget about home made blood sausage or kishkes.
- Fat - We have to render the lard ourselves, but we get all the fat, including the kidney fat for leaf lard. It will be cut in 1 lb chunks and packaged in five pound bags.
- Trim - Italian sausage, bratwurst and packaged ground pork, which my wife did not so much approve she wanted more plain and less seasoned.
No one with a copy of a Fergus Henderson book could want a hog without its head, no? His latest tome, Beyond Nose to Tail Eating, has a stunningly, grossly attractive picture of a braised pig's head. Could I duplicate that? More likely, I am working on a trade with Rob at Mado. Anyways, I mentioned to Emily Wettstein the other day that I wanted the head. The head from a local hog can be had if requested. I requested. She forgot to mention that to the locker. Still, before I could get the least bit distressed, they realized their mistake and realized they were processing another hog next week. I could have that head. I asked the locker if they would split the head for me. They said no. If I wanted a hog head, I was getting a hog head. Smarty.
We pick up our 1/2 hog on July 5, 2008 at the Oak Park Farmer's Market. You know I'll have more to say. This year the Wettstein's will be at the market every week. If you cannot get the whole hog, you can buy your own parts, no head, each Saturday as well as organically raised lamb, chicken, beef and eggs.
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