Friday, March 19, 2004

Foodie Knowledge

One of the biggest arguments on Chowhound, perhaps what linguists might call the Ur-argument, is over secret menu's. There are essentially three positions, with variations within. First, there is foodie knowledge, as best exemplified here. A chowhound, ErikM meticulously and endlessly researched Thai food before finally arranging this dinner. Those in attendance felt very well rewarded. Second, there is the counter-position, argued here, that "the ritual of having to ask for [the secret menu so] many times [is] frustrating as a customer". Chowhound poster in exile, Harry V, feels any place forcing you to ask for a secret menu is unworthy of patronage. Now, there is a third, snarky school out there that might like the stuff on the secret menu's but would rather mock people's efforts to find it. Some have argued that it is just a game of one-upmanship or macho eating and that it has no real connection to what is on the plate. I firmly reject the last two positions and remain a starch believer in foodie knowledge.

It does not bother me in the least that I have to attain foodie knowledge to get better treatment at a restaurant. I think someone like the near-mythical food poster, Cabrales, would argue that foodie knowledge matters as much (if not more) to accentuating your meal at a top-line place as it does at a neighborhood place. Moreover, knowledge and understanding are accepted as components in understanding other things put in the mouth, like wine as well as other things experienced with the senses, like art. Do people really walk away from the Art Institute saying, "I paid $5 to see a bunch of paint thrown on a canvass, and no one told me about the secret book that would have helped me understand Pollack?" The great thing about foodie knowledge, as I have argued before, is it's awfully fun obtaining. To me, more fun than art history.

I find little sympathy when someone goes into a Thai place, orders two rather similar dishes and then explains the food was not varied enough. The resources out there in Chicago to learn about food, Chowhound, the LTH listserv, Culinary Historians, those mushroom freaks, the writings of Monica Eng, even the flawed bits in Chicago Magazine, well, foodie knowledge is surely no guarded Templar secret. Yesterday, I was talking briefly with Gwiv, the Ultimo, on this topic, and we noted that eaters could easily go along for the ride, take advantage of the hard work and (what over-the-top) foodie knowledge of guys like the Brilliant One or ErikM. Within the last few weeks, there have been dinners at Penang, the Malaysian restaurant; Ed's Potsticker House, a rare in Chicago, Northern Chinese place; TAC, the Thai restaurant linked above and an extensive insider tour of rib joints. Gwiv famously sussed out Spoon Thai's greatness without a secret menu. It was just about knowing what to ask for and engaging the people there. Anyone can do that. Foodie knowledge is there, boy, so if you do not want it, stop harping at those who do.

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