The Italian Beef

Many years ago, I went to school in Washington DC. In one of those initial dorm sessions where you get to know everybody, I asked the seemingly innocuous question, where could I get a good Italian beef sammy. After all, what does a kid from the Chicago area want when he's hungrier for more than a hot dog. Believe me, that moment of derision followed by the revelation that no one really knew what was an Italian beef has stuck with me the rest of my life. People around the USA eat things like the Italian beef: french dip, beef-on-weck, even cheesesteaks, but no one else eats the Italian beef.

The distinguishing feature of Chicago's beef sandwich is the lack of substantial condiment to the beef. LA dips get slathered with a spicy mustard. 'Weck's get nose clearing horseradish and the ample salt crusted bun. Philly beef is thoroughly hidden in extras. Roast beef satisfies, but it needs something. Chicago beef adds its succor from a jus or gravy that houses the meat for a substantial period before service. This gravy gets highly influenced by those dreaded dried spices, especially garlic powder and oregano. Beef users adjust the amount of gravy per sandwich by asking for their sandwiches dry, wet, juicy, dipped, whatever. But no matter how much gravy is added to the Italian beef sandwich, the meat will already carry the spiced flavor through out. Although the Italian beef needs no frill, it does often get two compliments.

First, many eaters add peppers to their beef. The peppers can either be sweet, some kind of cooked green bell pepper, or hot, a/k/a giardinara, a mix of chopped things in oil. (See here for additional information on giardinara). The peppers do not so much as dress the meat but add another flavor dimension. The second way to adjust the beef sandwich is to throw an Italian sausage onto the bun too. Known around town as a combo, the sausage leavens the meat mass with pork fat, char and a contrasting texture.

Several hounds led by by Dickson and George R have been exploring various Italian beef stands around town. It has been a great process. At first, it seemed that they were all great, but over time, we've found some awful beef too. Below is my general summary based on tastings so far.

Unique and fab in taste and garnish

Al's - 1079 W. Taylor, Chicago - Al's differs from all other Italian beefs, firstly by a different spice mix, mysterious but with strong hits of fennel seed; secondly by the consistency of the meat, more shredded than smoothly sliced; third by its giardinara, thin slices of celery heated up with red pepper flakes instead of the typical chopped sport pepper. Great charcoal grilled sausage.

Best of the "typical beefs"

Johnnies - 7500 W. North, Elmwood Park - On one of the beefathons, we visited Carm's in Hillside (see below). Really good. Then we went to Johnnie's. Taste is always subjective, and it is hard to explain why one thing just tastes better. Johnnies just tastes better. Nothing stands out, the gravy, the cut of beef, the giardinara. Just balance and the best of the beef's that is like all the other beefs, just better. Also grills their sausage over real hardwood charcoal. This is one of the best smelling restaurants in Chicagoland.

2nd best, slightly unconventional beef

Freddy's in Cicero - 1600 S. 61st Ave, Cicero - Distinguished by a tomatoey gravy (it's subtle), it is a stellar beef.

Third best, slightly unconventional beef

J&C Bombacigno's - 558 W. Van Burean, Chicago - Uses a different roll than most beef stands, Dakota Pride. Unlike the standard Gonella bread, J&C's bread is lighter but also crisper. Yet, because of its nature, the sammy dissolves somewhere between the third and fifth bite. The way you are scooping bread, meat and gravy after a while, with a couple of fingers, reminds you of eating Moroccan or Ethiopian food. The gravy is a bit oily, in a delicious way, and the only one that ever so slightly mimics Al's.

Next best beef's, all normal style

Carm's Hillside - 1801 S. Wolf, Hillside - See Johnnies above. Well balanced, tastes great, and only against Johnnies doe it seem less.

Chickies - 2839 S. Pulaski - Enhanced from a giardinara that is thin sliced jalepenos instead, although the oil tempers what looks to be too spicy.

Patio - 1503 W. Taylor - A much lesser known stand than its neighbor on Taylor, Al's, but gives the visitor to "Little Italy" a chance to have the regular Chicago beef, done very, very well. Gets their beef cooked from Serrielli's (which deserves a post).

Reaching for greatness but not quite

Mr. Beef - 666 N. Orleans, Chicago - I have a thing against Mr. Beef. It started when they started wrapping the sammy's ahead of time. But I also take out my distaste for Jay Leno on Mr. Beef (he loves it). Lastly, for ages, the folks on e-Gullet would proclaim Mr. Beef the best in Chicago with NO sense of other places. I had to hate it. Yet, on the first beefathon, I was surprised to find that, when served fresh, it is not bad at all. The giardinara is dominated by raw celery.

Dino and Nick's - 2035 N. Pulaski - With Al's, the most aggressively seasoned beef, but there is no mystery to this mix. Lots of garlic and lots of oregano. Some find it too, I like it.

Max's - 5754 Western - Another beef place most interesting for its giardinara. The giardiara oil is tinted red, and there is much speculation about its secret ingredients. I taste something quite Asian in the sauce, wondering if it's chile oil.

Boston BBQ - 2932 W Chicago - I admit, the coolest thing about this ancient beef stand was the its old fashioned sign with the neon and lotsa light-bulbs. With that sign gone, it is just a respectable beef.

Buena Beef - Various locations - Uses the lighter Turano bread, has a gravy dominated by black pepper, and offers a giardinara heavy with chunks of celery and whole olives. Lots of bells and whistles, but it does not taste quite as good as, say Johnnies.

Finely Average

Frannies - 4304 River Road, Schiller Park - Advertises "virgin" beef. Which is nothing special.

Carm's on Polk - 1057 W. Polk, Chicago - Another choice in the old neighborhood, but this one is not nearly as good. Too fatty.

Tores - 2804 N. Western Avenue Chicago - Edible, I have no problem here, as compared to the places below, but I would not run out of my way for it.

Below Average

Jay's - A few locations - Incredibly tough beef, who thought that was possible.

Roma's - 4237 N. Cicero, Chicago - Ronny takes huge pride in his product, and perhaps I caught them on an atypical day.

Satchell's - 4700 W Cermak, Cicero - Once considered among the giants, now seems to be phoning it in.

Gutter

Quick Bite - 5155 N. Western, Chicago - Really awful, odd, chemical taste.

Too afraid to try

Beefee - Multiple locations - On TV, I saw they add some spice mix to the beef after finishing it on the grill. Two things that confirm my worst fears.