Yum Thai
Lunch?
Yum Thai is one of those places with a secret. A secret de-coded. Over time, I have learned the details of the Thai written menu, and I learned that to order the apparantly same dishes from this menu produced much better food. I think I might be on to yet another secret of Yum Thai, lunch.
I lunched at Yum Thai with the Condiment Queen yesterday, and ate very well. One of my previous best meals there had been lunch with G Wiv. Perhaps, without the intense-later-in the day take-out business that keeps this place going, they can put more attention into the mid-day meal. In fact one of the startling secrets we have been able to pry out of Yum Thai is that the "American" style dishes are mostly made ahead of time, while the "Thai" dishes are made to order. I wonder if the slower lunch time means even more made to order, even more attention so to speak.
Yesterday, my wife mostly wanted noodles and she got the sweet, spicy and chewy kee-mow (stir fried wide rice noodles). I had a soup-curry called, well I cannot say, I've searched high and low, but right now I cannot find my version of the translated secret menu. It is a yellow curry, sour and hot, with plenty of vegetables. foodfirst ghe generous and knowageable Chowhound who has translated Yum Thai's menu for me said this dish came with fried catfish, but yesterday my soup had shrimps. Whatever it was, it was very good. Last, we split a beef salad. This is one dish I am not even sure is on the Thai menu, but I tell them exactly how to make it. Grilled sliced beef in the lime fish sauce dressing with too many cloves of Goodfella thin garlic and too many slices of chilies--I just wish that yesterday's jalepeno's were not so dead. Still, boy did this dish crank. The beef got dressed right off the grill, gas grill as it may be, and the sauce got slightly absored, and then that embarrassing amount of garlic. I treasured that reek all day.
Right now, I am most confident with Yum Thai at lunch. And make sure to ask for the translated "secret menu" (i.e., the English version of the Thai menu, not the regular "American" menu.)
Yum Thai
7748 W Madison
Forest Park, IL. 60130
708-366-8888
Thursday, January 08, 2004
Kenny's Ribs Discovery
Several Chowhounds will shortly take off on an epic Q quest. The brilliant one wants to hit 30 places (ha!). I am sure they will make some great bbq discoveries, but I doubt they will make the discovery I made last night.
Kenny's Ribs offers one of the more average "authentic" style ribs and rib tips, but offers it from several locations, a chain of mediocrity. It is, however, one of the few places within walking distance of the bungalow. Plus, they provide a nice lunch deal that extends to the very non-lunch hour of 5:59. Thus, I find myself eating at Kenny's more than I need. Until yesterday.
I did not ask for my rib tips sauce-less. I asked for the hot sauce, like always. Kenny's sauce is actually not bad. Yet, with the sauce on the side, the rib tips shot up at least 80 points on the Q-o-meter. I tasted the charcoal. I tasted the meat. I tasted the luxuriously awful pork fat. Now, I did accent the meat. Accented with one of the all time great tips from Chowhound, the ability of Tapatio hot sauce to mimic Arthur Bryant's sauce. Kenny's rib tips, with Tapatio hot sauce, for $3.99, pure pleasure. Try it.
Several Chowhounds will shortly take off on an epic Q quest. The brilliant one wants to hit 30 places (ha!). I am sure they will make some great bbq discoveries, but I doubt they will make the discovery I made last night.
Kenny's Ribs offers one of the more average "authentic" style ribs and rib tips, but offers it from several locations, a chain of mediocrity. It is, however, one of the few places within walking distance of the bungalow. Plus, they provide a nice lunch deal that extends to the very non-lunch hour of 5:59. Thus, I find myself eating at Kenny's more than I need. Until yesterday.
I did not ask for my rib tips sauce-less. I asked for the hot sauce, like always. Kenny's sauce is actually not bad. Yet, with the sauce on the side, the rib tips shot up at least 80 points on the Q-o-meter. I tasted the charcoal. I tasted the meat. I tasted the luxuriously awful pork fat. Now, I did accent the meat. Accented with one of the all time great tips from Chowhound, the ability of Tapatio hot sauce to mimic Arthur Bryant's sauce. Kenny's rib tips, with Tapatio hot sauce, for $3.99, pure pleasure. Try it.
Question for Reader (or reader's)
I got around to looking at the latest issue of the Reader. Every week, the Reader lists about 20 or so places around a theme, with the pity comments of their reporters. This week's summaries, Uptown. I was highly surprised when Palace of China got called "strictly Szechuan Chinese."
C'mon guys, true? Last time I checked this place out, it was a rather traditional Cantonese place: salt and pepper shrimps, steamed fish, whole crabs and lobsters from a tank, that kind of stuff. Is my memory off or does the Reader need a fact checker?
For an idea of what strictly Szechuan means, I suggest perhaps the Reader's editors make a visit to Lao Sze Chuan or maybe the newly opened Sky in Chinatown. The other day the Sun Times' Pat Bruno stated matter of factly that "I have seen an erosion of quality Chinese food in too many of the restaurants in Chinatown (one exception is Phoenix, which is still the best dim sum and then some restaurant around)." I got to wonder do these critics actually eat in Chinatown or Argyle or do they just not know what Chinese food is?
UPDATE: Two quick things. First, since I wrote this on Thursday morning, you should know I was talking, really, already, about LAST week's Reader. Second, it got worse when I looked at it some more. The same restaurant list in last week's Reader, has Cantonese, Silver Seafood as "Mandarian." Hard to elevate the Chinese food discourse in this city if we hardly know what Chinese food is.
I got around to looking at the latest issue of the Reader. Every week, the Reader lists about 20 or so places around a theme, with the pity comments of their reporters. This week's summaries, Uptown. I was highly surprised when Palace of China got called "strictly Szechuan Chinese."
C'mon guys, true? Last time I checked this place out, it was a rather traditional Cantonese place: salt and pepper shrimps, steamed fish, whole crabs and lobsters from a tank, that kind of stuff. Is my memory off or does the Reader need a fact checker?
For an idea of what strictly Szechuan means, I suggest perhaps the Reader's editors make a visit to Lao Sze Chuan or maybe the newly opened Sky in Chinatown. The other day the Sun Times' Pat Bruno stated matter of factly that "I have seen an erosion of quality Chinese food in too many of the restaurants in Chinatown (one exception is Phoenix, which is still the best dim sum and then some restaurant around)." I got to wonder do these critics actually eat in Chinatown or Argyle or do they just not know what Chinese food is?
UPDATE: Two quick things. First, since I wrote this on Thursday morning, you should know I was talking, really, already, about LAST week's Reader. Second, it got worse when I looked at it some more. The same restaurant list in last week's Reader, has Cantonese, Silver Seafood as "Mandarian." Hard to elevate the Chinese food discourse in this city if we hardly know what Chinese food is.
Wednesday, January 07, 2004
Curses, foiled again
I've horribly jinxed myself by bragging more than once in recent weeks, about my ability to recall meals without notes. I posted on Dinah's without remembering the banana bread or the giant bucket out front, two of the reasons this may be the best restaurant in LA. I forgot the dry beef flaky bread dish at Ed's (scroll down), probably because it was the only weak item, and I have totally, totally missed the best thing I ate in 2003.
Now, my excuse for not remembering this thing is because I am still eating it as we enter 2004. I am talking about my wife's candy pecans. Not only are these the best thing to have ever been prepared in the bungalow, they are probably the best dish ever prepared in Oak Park. They are so good, when I start nibbling at them, I almost have to force myself to stop, or otherwise my stomach would burst. I am like one of those rats with their brains hooked up that they get the jolt of pleasure that they cannot do anything else. I have tried hard to convince the Condiment Queen to go pro with these things, but she is resistant to the name I concocted for the business: Sheila's Nutz.
I've horribly jinxed myself by bragging more than once in recent weeks, about my ability to recall meals without notes. I posted on Dinah's without remembering the banana bread or the giant bucket out front, two of the reasons this may be the best restaurant in LA. I forgot the dry beef flaky bread dish at Ed's (scroll down), probably because it was the only weak item, and I have totally, totally missed the best thing I ate in 2003.
Now, my excuse for not remembering this thing is because I am still eating it as we enter 2004. I am talking about my wife's candy pecans. Not only are these the best thing to have ever been prepared in the bungalow, they are probably the best dish ever prepared in Oak Park. They are so good, when I start nibbling at them, I almost have to force myself to stop, or otherwise my stomach would burst. I am like one of those rats with their brains hooked up that they get the jolt of pleasure that they cannot do anything else. I have tried hard to convince the Condiment Queen to go pro with these things, but she is resistant to the name I concocted for the business: Sheila's Nutz.
Triple Crown Seafood
In one of their few lucent moments, the Chicago Tribune Cheap Eats did Triple Crown Seafood today. (free registration required). Sometimes people's attention get focused on the newer or more obscure Chinese food available these days in Chinatown, 500 item Szechuanese menu's, rare Yunnan treats, Dongbei, etc., but sometimes it is very comforting and enjoyable to eat the basics, well if not the basics, at least what has been more traditional in Chinatown.
Triple Crown (most of the time, it can be inconsistent) does fantastic versions of all the Hong Kong standards. Make your meal almost entirely of seafood treats: oyster casserole with pork chunks--an inspired combo, fried smelts over-run with bits of garlic and other things, clams in black bean sauce. For meat, try a basic Cantonese restaurant prep, displayed in the back like soy sauce chicken. I have also had great crispy skin chicken here, the Cantonese breadingless fried chicken. Finally, add at least one vegetable to the table. Triple Crown's menu features tons of vegetable dishes, all done well. Easy to be healthy here.
As noted in the review, at Triple Crown the prices all drop shockingly after 10 PM, and this becomes about the best deal in Chicago
In one of their few lucent moments, the Chicago Tribune Cheap Eats did Triple Crown Seafood today. (free registration required). Sometimes people's attention get focused on the newer or more obscure Chinese food available these days in Chinatown, 500 item Szechuanese menu's, rare Yunnan treats, Dongbei, etc., but sometimes it is very comforting and enjoyable to eat the basics, well if not the basics, at least what has been more traditional in Chinatown.
Triple Crown (most of the time, it can be inconsistent) does fantastic versions of all the Hong Kong standards. Make your meal almost entirely of seafood treats: oyster casserole with pork chunks--an inspired combo, fried smelts over-run with bits of garlic and other things, clams in black bean sauce. For meat, try a basic Cantonese restaurant prep, displayed in the back like soy sauce chicken. I have also had great crispy skin chicken here, the Cantonese breadingless fried chicken. Finally, add at least one vegetable to the table. Triple Crown's menu features tons of vegetable dishes, all done well. Easy to be healthy here.
As noted in the review, at Triple Crown the prices all drop shockingly after 10 PM, and this becomes about the best deal in Chicago
Tuesday, January 06, 2004
Gosh darn, in my listing of everywhere and everything I ate in LA, I forgot a small yet very, very enjoyable nibble.
In the two block area that is "Little Thailand" on Hollywood Blvd, is a large Thai grocery store called Silom (after the famous street in Bangkok). In the parking lot behind the store, a couple were cooking up a famous Thai street treat. I mean being in the parking lot, it was almost like eating in Bangkok. These treats are semi-circles of coconut milk custard, accented Thai style with sliced green onions. It was a treat of textures and tastes. As ChefG tries, this dish featured a distict skin and then an an almost set interior and finally, a jarring, unexpected flavor. A dollar very well spent!
In the two block area that is "Little Thailand" on Hollywood Blvd, is a large Thai grocery store called Silom (after the famous street in Bangkok). In the parking lot behind the store, a couple were cooking up a famous Thai street treat. I mean being in the parking lot, it was almost like eating in Bangkok. These treats are semi-circles of coconut milk custard, accented Thai style with sliced green onions. It was a treat of textures and tastes. As ChefG tries, this dish featured a distict skin and then an an almost set interior and finally, a jarring, unexpected flavor. A dollar very well spent!
Best Chow Moments 2003
On the listserv, several people have offered up their best eating of 2003. Here are mine (in no particular order)
Italian beef tasting. As much for the sammy's as for all the great people met along the way.
The wine dungeon leading to the $27 Thai food extravaganza at Spoon Thai followed by several more hours of eating and drinking, all along Western Avenue, the longest street in Chicago.
Lemon chicken with Wiv at Tufano's (for the Palm Pilot).
Eating burgers with Sheila at the Come Back Inn, Melrose Park a mere 2 hours after she had lunch at Trio.
Spring World with RST ordering (Chinatown, Chicago).
Brisket at Black's BBQ, Lockhart, Texas. If reduced to one taste for 2003, this would be it.
My brisket smoked and eaten the next day at Beverly Shores, Indiana. Finally a full size brisket almost as good. I had made very good flats in the past, but my previous attempts with full briskets had met with mixed success.
Wiv's smoked corned beef, the best pastrami, by a long way, in Chicago
Lem's ribs with beers at Jimmy's Woodlawn Tap to commence the Allnighathon.
Rico huarache at Maxwell Street Market, Chicago
Donuts in LA
Joan's bouillabaisse
The third basturma, garlic spread and pickle sandwich at Erik M's. Two were great, but the third jolt of these intense flavors put me in such a food stupor Sheila had to drive me home.
Wine week at Smith and Wollensky
The world's greatest sope's, Milwaukee Ave, Logan Square (Chicago).
Rosh Hashannah roast chicken salad from the Zuni cookbook and Yom Kippur braised beef without a cookbook
Relishes made with relish by my mother for Thanksgiving
French toast and pie at DuPar's, Farmer's Market, LA
Hearts of lettuce, anchovy dressing, with a martini on the side, Musso and Frank's, Hollywood, CA. The most perfect accord.
I reserve the right to amend for at least a week!
On the listserv, several people have offered up their best eating of 2003. Here are mine (in no particular order)
Italian beef tasting. As much for the sammy's as for all the great people met along the way.
The wine dungeon leading to the $27 Thai food extravaganza at Spoon Thai followed by several more hours of eating and drinking, all along Western Avenue, the longest street in Chicago.
Lemon chicken with Wiv at Tufano's (for the Palm Pilot).
Eating burgers with Sheila at the Come Back Inn, Melrose Park a mere 2 hours after she had lunch at Trio.
Spring World with RST ordering (Chinatown, Chicago).
Brisket at Black's BBQ, Lockhart, Texas. If reduced to one taste for 2003, this would be it.
My brisket smoked and eaten the next day at Beverly Shores, Indiana. Finally a full size brisket almost as good. I had made very good flats in the past, but my previous attempts with full briskets had met with mixed success.
Wiv's smoked corned beef, the best pastrami, by a long way, in Chicago
Lem's ribs with beers at Jimmy's Woodlawn Tap to commence the Allnighathon.
Rico huarache at Maxwell Street Market, Chicago
Donuts in LA
Joan's bouillabaisse
The third basturma, garlic spread and pickle sandwich at Erik M's. Two were great, but the third jolt of these intense flavors put me in such a food stupor Sheila had to drive me home.
Wine week at Smith and Wollensky
The world's greatest sope's, Milwaukee Ave, Logan Square (Chicago).
Rosh Hashannah roast chicken salad from the Zuni cookbook and Yom Kippur braised beef without a cookbook
Relishes made with relish by my mother for Thanksgiving
French toast and pie at DuPar's, Farmer's Market, LA
Hearts of lettuce, anchovy dressing, with a martini on the side, Musso and Frank's, Hollywood, CA. The most perfect accord.
I reserve the right to amend for at least a week!
Fannie May to shut plant, putting 625 out of work
So reports today's Chicago Tribune. I resist mightily, the desire to toss political items into the blog--got it to keep it chow-centric no? but I HAVE to say something here.
It bothers me to no end, the deterioration of Chicago's business base. I see major corporations, Ameritech, Amoco, Quaker Oats, sell themselves off and then significantly diminish their presence in the Windy City. I see the massive Helene Curtis facilities near North and Cicero get wrecked. And the demolition companies must be soon at the gates of Brach, a couple of blocks south. Can we sum up Chicago's economic growth in recent years as the boondoggle of Millennium Park, a huge residential output in the South Loop and the luring of a 100 Boeing executives? At some point, people have to make money to live in all these units, and at some point the building boom will die. Then what?
So reports today's Chicago Tribune. I resist mightily, the desire to toss political items into the blog--got it to keep it chow-centric no? but I HAVE to say something here.
It bothers me to no end, the deterioration of Chicago's business base. I see major corporations, Ameritech, Amoco, Quaker Oats, sell themselves off and then significantly diminish their presence in the Windy City. I see the massive Helene Curtis facilities near North and Cicero get wrecked. And the demolition companies must be soon at the gates of Brach, a couple of blocks south. Can we sum up Chicago's economic growth in recent years as the boondoggle of Millennium Park, a huge residential output in the South Loop and the luring of a 100 Boeing executives? At some point, people have to make money to live in all these units, and at some point the building boom will die. Then what?
Monday, January 05, 2004
Ed's Potsticker Update:
1) I forgot a dish, a dry, well very dry beef with a sauce tasting like dehydrated peanutbutter in a nicely flaky pastry--you can see why I forgot this dish, and the idea of ten dishes sounded better anyway.
2) Here's a pic of the house's standout dish. Note, when had ours on Saturday, the sandwiches were already made for us. Go to this site for more pic's of Ed's. (Pic's courtesy of GWiv)
1) I forgot a dish, a dry, well very dry beef with a sauce tasting like dehydrated peanutbutter in a nicely flaky pastry--you can see why I forgot this dish, and the idea of ten dishes sounded better anyway.
2) Here's a pic of the house's standout dish. Note, when had ours on Saturday, the sandwiches were already made for us. Go to this site for more pic's of Ed's. (Pic's courtesy of GWiv)
Sunday, January 04, 2004
Ed's Potsticker House
Ringing in the New Year with Champagne and dumplings
The benefit of the listserv is that great special meals can be planned and executed with minimal effort. All it takes is an idea and an e-mail account. The brilliant one, RST, got the notion that we should kick things off, 2004, with a full range of helpings from Ed's Potsticker Northern Chinese snack menu, and to wash it all down, champagne, preferably champagnes from small bottlers.
I was last at Ed's in July, although for some reason it seems like last year (hahahahaha, no really it does seem like longer.) Our meal Saturday mimicked much of what we ate in July, although this time we excluded any "main dishes". All snacks or dim sum.
Honestly, as one of the chowhounditas likes to say, honestly, it was all great. A seemingly endless procession of Calvin Trillin inspired stuffed stuff. First, soup dumplings with an elastic and rather leak proof wrapper. Not too soupy, but good nonetheless. Second, the house signature dish, traditional Northern style potstickers, much different than your PF Chang version. Rolled, like the cigars served in Israeli restaurants, crisp all the way around, flaky, and just a touch greasy. Third, water dumplings, a thicker wrapper, more European, like a pierogi, to support the more vigorous cooking process, boiled versus steamed. Now, these dumplings pretty much all contained the same things inside, three similar items, yet all three possessed distinct and different skins. It focused you on the artisanship of the dumpling maker. Fourth, tiny bread bombs (typical Chinese steamed bread of "silver cake", steamed and then fried), with a bowl of condensed milk for dragging. Nothing much to say, huh? Fifth, sesame balls with bean paste, one of the few overlaps with traditional Cantonese dim sum. Ed's does a much tinier ball, and fries it longer. More crunch than goo, but I slightly prefer the goo. Sixth and seventh, two forays to Shanghai: rice cakes with bok choy and pork and thick round noodles. The carborama continued, just not as dumplings. Still about the contrasts in texture and what can be done with flour based on how it is worked and how it is cooked. I really liked the toothsome rice cakes, but the guy sitting next to me (MikeG) felt them too MSG-y. Eighth, back to dumplings, this one steamed and griddled on one side, like most people expect of potstickers, but filled with a kids pleasing cellophane noodle and chive. Ninth, the collective favorite, the crisp and flaky pancake filled, pita-like, with Chinese bacon--belly meat, rolled and slice so the filling was circles of pork meat and port fat. Tenth, soup, a much meatier and beefier broth than found further south, filled with, guess what, won tons (more dumplings). Ten ways to drive Atkins nuts and ten ways to have a great lunch. Eleven actually, we got chopped up bits of Chinese donut sticks, but the kids grabbed and ate these so fast, I cannot say more.
Those champagnes to accompany? Brilliant idea. Not only does Champagne go anywhere, not only did it extend the New Year's parties, but Champagne, with its mouth clearing properties, makes an excellent companion to this starchy food. Afterall, how many times has a champagne been described as bready or toasty. We had an assortment of bottles including some small producers--I'll get the details later, some Czech czampagne as we called it and some decidedly NOT small, Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Vintage Reserve 1996 I bought on sale a month or so ago. To be honest, I have limited insight on the bubblies. I agreed to let Ms. VI sit with the adults, I took the kids over to a big table, where we joined Mike G, his two, and a very brave, very generous chowhound named Peter. My condition for this arrangement, I got to drink all the champagne I wanted. Soon, all the wine blurred together, even the highly sweet, a bit medicine like, Czech version.
Ed's Potsticker House is continued testament that Chicago is filled with fantastic Chinese cooking. Ed's serves roughly, the population in Chicago, not from the Southern states. Ed's gorgeous and charming owner, Brenda, hails from Beijing. Her chef from Dong-bei, the East. The menu, as noted above, takes in Shanghai dishes as well. To perhaps step over the line, but even in Hong Kong, non-Cantonese restaurants have a reputation for warmth and friendliness, but with a Northern style place like Ed's, you will not find some of the brusqueness, the refusal to serve dishes, the you no like, treatment, found often at Chinese places. The outstanding hospitality of all at Ed's only added to the pleasure.
After lunch, most of us took the short jog to Filberts, where for the first time in my life, they were bottling when I entered. Hungrier sorts continued south to Lem's ribs, but we need to get back to Oak Park.
Ed's Potsticker House
3139 S. Halsted St.
(312) 326-6898
Ringing in the New Year with Champagne and dumplings
The benefit of the listserv is that great special meals can be planned and executed with minimal effort. All it takes is an idea and an e-mail account. The brilliant one, RST, got the notion that we should kick things off, 2004, with a full range of helpings from Ed's Potsticker Northern Chinese snack menu, and to wash it all down, champagne, preferably champagnes from small bottlers.
I was last at Ed's in July, although for some reason it seems like last year (hahahahaha, no really it does seem like longer.) Our meal Saturday mimicked much of what we ate in July, although this time we excluded any "main dishes". All snacks or dim sum.
Honestly, as one of the chowhounditas likes to say, honestly, it was all great. A seemingly endless procession of Calvin Trillin inspired stuffed stuff. First, soup dumplings with an elastic and rather leak proof wrapper. Not too soupy, but good nonetheless. Second, the house signature dish, traditional Northern style potstickers, much different than your PF Chang version. Rolled, like the cigars served in Israeli restaurants, crisp all the way around, flaky, and just a touch greasy. Third, water dumplings, a thicker wrapper, more European, like a pierogi, to support the more vigorous cooking process, boiled versus steamed. Now, these dumplings pretty much all contained the same things inside, three similar items, yet all three possessed distinct and different skins. It focused you on the artisanship of the dumpling maker. Fourth, tiny bread bombs (typical Chinese steamed bread of "silver cake", steamed and then fried), with a bowl of condensed milk for dragging. Nothing much to say, huh? Fifth, sesame balls with bean paste, one of the few overlaps with traditional Cantonese dim sum. Ed's does a much tinier ball, and fries it longer. More crunch than goo, but I slightly prefer the goo. Sixth and seventh, two forays to Shanghai: rice cakes with bok choy and pork and thick round noodles. The carborama continued, just not as dumplings. Still about the contrasts in texture and what can be done with flour based on how it is worked and how it is cooked. I really liked the toothsome rice cakes, but the guy sitting next to me (MikeG) felt them too MSG-y. Eighth, back to dumplings, this one steamed and griddled on one side, like most people expect of potstickers, but filled with a kids pleasing cellophane noodle and chive. Ninth, the collective favorite, the crisp and flaky pancake filled, pita-like, with Chinese bacon--belly meat, rolled and slice so the filling was circles of pork meat and port fat. Tenth, soup, a much meatier and beefier broth than found further south, filled with, guess what, won tons (more dumplings). Ten ways to drive Atkins nuts and ten ways to have a great lunch. Eleven actually, we got chopped up bits of Chinese donut sticks, but the kids grabbed and ate these so fast, I cannot say more.
Those champagnes to accompany? Brilliant idea. Not only does Champagne go anywhere, not only did it extend the New Year's parties, but Champagne, with its mouth clearing properties, makes an excellent companion to this starchy food. Afterall, how many times has a champagne been described as bready or toasty. We had an assortment of bottles including some small producers--I'll get the details later, some Czech czampagne as we called it and some decidedly NOT small, Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Vintage Reserve 1996 I bought on sale a month or so ago. To be honest, I have limited insight on the bubblies. I agreed to let Ms. VI sit with the adults, I took the kids over to a big table, where we joined Mike G, his two, and a very brave, very generous chowhound named Peter. My condition for this arrangement, I got to drink all the champagne I wanted. Soon, all the wine blurred together, even the highly sweet, a bit medicine like, Czech version.
Ed's Potsticker House is continued testament that Chicago is filled with fantastic Chinese cooking. Ed's serves roughly, the population in Chicago, not from the Southern states. Ed's gorgeous and charming owner, Brenda, hails from Beijing. Her chef from Dong-bei, the East. The menu, as noted above, takes in Shanghai dishes as well. To perhaps step over the line, but even in Hong Kong, non-Cantonese restaurants have a reputation for warmth and friendliness, but with a Northern style place like Ed's, you will not find some of the brusqueness, the refusal to serve dishes, the you no like, treatment, found often at Chinese places. The outstanding hospitality of all at Ed's only added to the pleasure.
After lunch, most of us took the short jog to Filberts, where for the first time in my life, they were bottling when I entered. Hungrier sorts continued south to Lem's ribs, but we need to get back to Oak Park.
Ed's Potsticker House
3139 S. Halsted St.
(312) 326-6898
Thursday, January 01, 2004
Eating LA
I'm gonna post more thoughts on the LA Chowhound board. Here's a quick re-cap:
El Gran Burrito - A bit edgy with great head meat tacos
Falafel King - Sentimental favorite still a favorite. Picking just a few salads too hard, made up by the fact that I can help myself to more than five kinds of hot sauces.
Stan's Donut's - Loved the banana peanut butter. This Stan guy is a genius. Not as crazy over the cheese/cherry combo. What was this Stan guy thinking?
Uncle Bill's - OK pancakes
Randy's Donut's - Great donut facsimile on roof
Border Grill - Not resting on laurels for sure. Nice kid's menu
Fatburger - Fast food that still allows itself to be greasy
Pink's - We like Chicago dogs better
Renu Nakorn - Except for all the special things mixed in--the garlic/chili sauce for the catfish, the crispy rice and the thorny vegetable with the pompano stew, things like that, Renu Nakorn did not make me say wow. And did not sear my nostrils as Jonathan Gold promised.
Donut Shop next door to Renu - Buttermilk bar blew away Randy's - Seek this place out, not just for donut tips, but the Thai born owner is quite the foodie, with opinions on a lot of LA places. Hint, he does not think much of Renu Nakorn.
Jay's Jayburger - Great hamburger not so great chili
Tommy's - Not so great hamburger, better chili--as a combo, better than Jay's
Dinah's Coffee Shop - Perhaps the finest restaurant in LA (I kid you not!)
Hollywood Farmer's Market- Fan-freakin'-tastic - Best pupusa's I've ever had
Roscoe's Chicken and Waffle's - Gower Street location even better than Pico. Amazing sweet potatoes.
Pie n'Burger - THE LA (area) burger. All the elements combine into the perfect burger. Lemon meringue pie pretty good and strawberry cake even better
Kuala Lumpur - Fine rendition of Malaysian food
Guelaguetza - Searched out the 8th street location to see if it was better. Answer, not really, but that did not mean it was not tasty. Although I have to say, the very LA, Mexican bakery run by Koreans across the street was even tastier.
Musso and Frank's - There is a reason it's survived since 1919. Loved everything but the prices. Hearts of Lettuce salad with anchovy dressing single best plate of food on trip.
Sushi Gen - Doing something right as it was packed with Japanese families on a Tuesday night
Woody's Smogersburger - Who can resist? Charred burger more special than the smogersburger toppings bar.
Du-Par's - Did I say Dinnah's was the best restaurant, well that was in Culver City, so Du-Par's is the best restaurant in LA. French toast is not supposed to taste this good, and that pie...sigh!
Primo's Donut's - Unlucky us. Most of the selections were gone as we stopped on the way to the airport. We still liked the meager pickings. No ability, however to rank it against Stan's.
I'm gonna post more thoughts on the LA Chowhound board. Here's a quick re-cap:
El Gran Burrito - A bit edgy with great head meat tacos
Falafel King - Sentimental favorite still a favorite. Picking just a few salads too hard, made up by the fact that I can help myself to more than five kinds of hot sauces.
Stan's Donut's - Loved the banana peanut butter. This Stan guy is a genius. Not as crazy over the cheese/cherry combo. What was this Stan guy thinking?
Uncle Bill's - OK pancakes
Randy's Donut's - Great donut facsimile on roof
Border Grill - Not resting on laurels for sure. Nice kid's menu
Fatburger - Fast food that still allows itself to be greasy
Pink's - We like Chicago dogs better
Renu Nakorn - Except for all the special things mixed in--the garlic/chili sauce for the catfish, the crispy rice and the thorny vegetable with the pompano stew, things like that, Renu Nakorn did not make me say wow. And did not sear my nostrils as Jonathan Gold promised.
Donut Shop next door to Renu - Buttermilk bar blew away Randy's - Seek this place out, not just for donut tips, but the Thai born owner is quite the foodie, with opinions on a lot of LA places. Hint, he does not think much of Renu Nakorn.
Jay's Jayburger - Great hamburger not so great chili
Tommy's - Not so great hamburger, better chili--as a combo, better than Jay's
Dinah's Coffee Shop - Perhaps the finest restaurant in LA (I kid you not!)
Hollywood Farmer's Market- Fan-freakin'-tastic - Best pupusa's I've ever had
Roscoe's Chicken and Waffle's - Gower Street location even better than Pico. Amazing sweet potatoes.
Pie n'Burger - THE LA (area) burger. All the elements combine into the perfect burger. Lemon meringue pie pretty good and strawberry cake even better
Kuala Lumpur - Fine rendition of Malaysian food
Guelaguetza - Searched out the 8th street location to see if it was better. Answer, not really, but that did not mean it was not tasty. Although I have to say, the very LA, Mexican bakery run by Koreans across the street was even tastier.
Musso and Frank's - There is a reason it's survived since 1919. Loved everything but the prices. Hearts of Lettuce salad with anchovy dressing single best plate of food on trip.
Sushi Gen - Doing something right as it was packed with Japanese families on a Tuesday night
Woody's Smogersburger - Who can resist? Charred burger more special than the smogersburger toppings bar.
Du-Par's - Did I say Dinnah's was the best restaurant, well that was in Culver City, so Du-Par's is the best restaurant in LA. French toast is not supposed to taste this good, and that pie...sigh!
Primo's Donut's - Unlucky us. Most of the selections were gone as we stopped on the way to the airport. We still liked the meager pickings. No ability, however to rank it against Stan's.
Wednesday, December 24, 2003
Another in Our Continuing Series of Rants on the Chicago Tribune Cheap Eats Eats
Check out this review of Thai Bistro, in St. Charles (free registration required). What, in the review, gives you the impression that this place deserves 3 out of 4 forks. That they make their own soy vinegar sauce. Granted, the reviewer concedes that the lovely setting pushed the rating up 1/2 fork, but this is a cheap eats review. How important should the art work be?
The review gives no indication that this place at all, scratches the surface of "real" Thai food. See for instance links related to Spoon below. With dishes like crab rangoon and shu mai, you can barely even call it Thai. And the spiciest of dishes, the reviewer declares tame. Is this really a Thai restaurant to be included near the top?
If I could put on my Swami gear, I might think that the review was generated more to increase coverage in St. Charles than to find a great Thai place. With so many neglected Thai restaurants, say Thai Super Chef, and so many neglected restaurants generally (oh just read along at Chowhound), this is what they could find?
Check out this review of Thai Bistro, in St. Charles (free registration required). What, in the review, gives you the impression that this place deserves 3 out of 4 forks. That they make their own soy vinegar sauce. Granted, the reviewer concedes that the lovely setting pushed the rating up 1/2 fork, but this is a cheap eats review. How important should the art work be?
The review gives no indication that this place at all, scratches the surface of "real" Thai food. See for instance links related to Spoon below. With dishes like crab rangoon and shu mai, you can barely even call it Thai. And the spiciest of dishes, the reviewer declares tame. Is this really a Thai restaurant to be included near the top?
If I could put on my Swami gear, I might think that the review was generated more to increase coverage in St. Charles than to find a great Thai place. With so many neglected Thai restaurants, say Thai Super Chef, and so many neglected restaurants generally (oh just read along at Chowhound), this is what they could find?
Tuesday, December 23, 2003
Kids wanted Bobak's, But Grota Was in the Right Direction
Return to the Best Chow-Block in Chicago
The escaped into the ether, AnneK, introduced us to this buffet on the "best chow block in Chicago". Our visit then was very good. Our return visit was not quite as good.
The key to Polish buffets is how often they freshen the items. On the first visit to Grota, they seemed to be constantly moving the items. The other day, some stuff stayed out too long and suffered. At $6.50 for adults and $3 for the kids, it remains an incredible bargain.
The buffet on 12/21/03 included extremely gray roast beef, better roast ham, mysteriously tasty hunter stew (cooked sauerkraut with chunks of meat, leading to lunch table discussion of what exactly made it hunter stew, served for the hunter, by the hunter, during the hunt, etc.) meatballs, sauerkraut stuffed pierogi, chewy-good potato dumplings, stuffed cabbage, great when fresh; roast duck--over steamed; un-sampled roast pork, rice pilaf, potato pancakes, blintzes with canned apple pie filling, boiled potatoes, fried chicken, also very good when fresh; an assortment of salads that were mostly tired, plus too salty cole slaw and too oniony cabbage; semi-dry orange slices, cheesecake (good), poppyseed cake (yech!) and kolachy. Buffet also included soup. Saturday's choices included tripe, tasty if a bit fatty; white borsht, forward flavor of vinegar, and chicken noodle, well slurped by the kids.
Return to the Best Chow-Block in Chicago
The escaped into the ether, AnneK, introduced us to this buffet on the "best chow block in Chicago". Our visit then was very good. Our return visit was not quite as good.
The key to Polish buffets is how often they freshen the items. On the first visit to Grota, they seemed to be constantly moving the items. The other day, some stuff stayed out too long and suffered. At $6.50 for adults and $3 for the kids, it remains an incredible bargain.
The buffet on 12/21/03 included extremely gray roast beef, better roast ham, mysteriously tasty hunter stew (cooked sauerkraut with chunks of meat, leading to lunch table discussion of what exactly made it hunter stew, served for the hunter, by the hunter, during the hunt, etc.) meatballs, sauerkraut stuffed pierogi, chewy-good potato dumplings, stuffed cabbage, great when fresh; roast duck--over steamed; un-sampled roast pork, rice pilaf, potato pancakes, blintzes with canned apple pie filling, boiled potatoes, fried chicken, also very good when fresh; an assortment of salads that were mostly tired, plus too salty cole slaw and too oniony cabbage; semi-dry orange slices, cheesecake (good), poppyseed cake (yech!) and kolachy. Buffet also included soup. Saturday's choices included tripe, tasty if a bit fatty; white borsht, forward flavor of vinegar, and chicken noodle, well slurped by the kids.
Monday, December 22, 2003
LA?
I am off to LA in a few days--the Condiment Queen and I had such a great time in September, we wanted to bring the kids. (Curious on why I love LA so much see here, here and here.)
Some places I am thinking of almost for sure are some kind of Islamic Chinese place like Tung Lai Shun. Surely, Langers because we did not make it there last time. I am a huge cafeteria guy, and Clifton's is high on the list. Everyone seems to like Father's Office, but I am holding out for Jay's Jayburger or Pie n' Burger or if I am lucky, both. Finally, I want to continue my exploration of the best donuts in the world, and Primo's is where I need to go next.
I am very curious to learn more about the San Pedro Fish Market and any other general suggestions are appreciated.
I am off to LA in a few days--the Condiment Queen and I had such a great time in September, we wanted to bring the kids. (Curious on why I love LA so much see here, here and here.)
Some places I am thinking of almost for sure are some kind of Islamic Chinese place like Tung Lai Shun. Surely, Langers because we did not make it there last time. I am a huge cafeteria guy, and Clifton's is high on the list. Everyone seems to like Father's Office, but I am holding out for Jay's Jayburger or Pie n' Burger or if I am lucky, both. Finally, I want to continue my exploration of the best donuts in the world, and Primo's is where I need to go next.
I am very curious to learn more about the San Pedro Fish Market and any other general suggestions are appreciated.
Sunday, December 21, 2003
Another Great Mexican Sandwich
Green House Steaks at Maxwell Street
Probably the one inarguable aspect of Chicago chow, is that you can eat really, really well at the weekly open-air market, still called Maxwell Street--even if these days, it is on Canal Street running several blocks north and south of Roosevelt, instead of its old home near Maxwell and Halstead. In all the eating and discussion of Maxwell, few chowhounds have said much about Green House Steaks.
I am guessing, that in some ways, connoisseurs avoid Green House for a couple of reasons. First, all the stuff is well labeled in English, and maybe the lack of mystery makes it not as good. Second, they sell an eclectic group of food, that again seems a little less than authentic. There are fried bananas and Chicago Polish sausage and burrito's (about the only place in the Market with burrito's). Finally, you see everything frying away, and maybe the forward presence of so much grease scares people too. Only one thing has tempted me at Green House, terrific looking steak torta's. I finally tried today, and guess what, they were terrific.
More terrific than first appearances. What always got my eye was a sturdy toasted roll and fine looking steak. Under closer examination I learned that the total filling of the torta included thick cut bacon, steak slices, melted cheese, and well cooked onions and bell peppers. The whole mess gets a wallop of sour cream and several spoonfuls of a very California like green salsa--heavy on the tomatilla and cilantro. The Condiment Queen stated it a, whole greater than the parts, kind of thing. I just wish we ordered two as one of the Chowhoundita's ate most of the filing (including pretty much all of the bacon). Just another excellent Mexican sandwich in Chicago.
Green House Steaks has two stands at Maxwell, both well recognized by their long facade of frying contraptions facing the shoppers and their well labeled items, but as far as I can tell, only the more northern Green House stand has the torta's. In addition, Green House has an actual restaurant at 2700 S. Millard. The restaurant menu includes torta's, but nothing sounding anything like the cheesesteak-ish item enjoyed today at Maxwell.
The Green House Steaks
2700 S. Millard
Chicago, IL
773-277-6684
Green House Steaks at Maxwell Street
Probably the one inarguable aspect of Chicago chow, is that you can eat really, really well at the weekly open-air market, still called Maxwell Street--even if these days, it is on Canal Street running several blocks north and south of Roosevelt, instead of its old home near Maxwell and Halstead. In all the eating and discussion of Maxwell, few chowhounds have said much about Green House Steaks.
I am guessing, that in some ways, connoisseurs avoid Green House for a couple of reasons. First, all the stuff is well labeled in English, and maybe the lack of mystery makes it not as good. Second, they sell an eclectic group of food, that again seems a little less than authentic. There are fried bananas and Chicago Polish sausage and burrito's (about the only place in the Market with burrito's). Finally, you see everything frying away, and maybe the forward presence of so much grease scares people too. Only one thing has tempted me at Green House, terrific looking steak torta's. I finally tried today, and guess what, they were terrific.
More terrific than first appearances. What always got my eye was a sturdy toasted roll and fine looking steak. Under closer examination I learned that the total filling of the torta included thick cut bacon, steak slices, melted cheese, and well cooked onions and bell peppers. The whole mess gets a wallop of sour cream and several spoonfuls of a very California like green salsa--heavy on the tomatilla and cilantro. The Condiment Queen stated it a, whole greater than the parts, kind of thing. I just wish we ordered two as one of the Chowhoundita's ate most of the filing (including pretty much all of the bacon). Just another excellent Mexican sandwich in Chicago.
Green House Steaks has two stands at Maxwell, both well recognized by their long facade of frying contraptions facing the shoppers and their well labeled items, but as far as I can tell, only the more northern Green House stand has the torta's. In addition, Green House has an actual restaurant at 2700 S. Millard. The restaurant menu includes torta's, but nothing sounding anything like the cheesesteak-ish item enjoyed today at Maxwell.
The Green House Steaks
2700 S. Millard
Chicago, IL
773-277-6684
Friday, December 19, 2003
Where Yat?
Keep in touch with the New Orleans food scene
I mentioned to someone yesterday that I partially picked Tulane Law School because of the food and bars. I have had several chances to return to New Orleans since those days, but obviously, I cannot go as often as I'd like. To partially make up for this, I get Tom Fitzmorris's daily e-newsletter on the New Orleans food scene. While Fitzmorris is a little lacking in his descriptions of "ethnic" food, his reporting of creole/cajun and similar places is spot on. No one can tell you better exactly how to eat well in New Orleans. Go here to subscribe.
Note, Fitzmorris is one of the leading proponents of the non-anonymous school of food journalism. Not only is he well recognized in New Orleans, he has had various business ventures with restraunteurs. I think this is a valid approach, and I will write on this more when I have time.
Keep in touch with the New Orleans food scene
I mentioned to someone yesterday that I partially picked Tulane Law School because of the food and bars. I have had several chances to return to New Orleans since those days, but obviously, I cannot go as often as I'd like. To partially make up for this, I get Tom Fitzmorris's daily e-newsletter on the New Orleans food scene. While Fitzmorris is a little lacking in his descriptions of "ethnic" food, his reporting of creole/cajun and similar places is spot on. No one can tell you better exactly how to eat well in New Orleans. Go here to subscribe.
Note, Fitzmorris is one of the leading proponents of the non-anonymous school of food journalism. Not only is he well recognized in New Orleans, he has had various business ventures with restraunteurs. I think this is a valid approach, and I will write on this more when I have time.
Mexican Sandwiches
On the SF board of Chowhound, having seen the tortas at La Torta in San Diego, got to talking about tortas.
UPDATE: Stanley Stephan turned me on to this post about Tijuana torta's and the differences between a torta and a lonche.
I recently wrote a thing about Mexican sammy's in Chicago. This RST post is even more informative on the subject.
Mexican food includes a lot of sandwiches, but these sandwiches were a late entry on most Mexican menu's in the USA. Up until recently, how many people even knew about the sandwich as part of the repatoire? Now, we see tortas and other Mexican sandwiches all over the place. Here are some good choices for sandwiches, Mexican style in Chicago.
Taqueria/Restaurant La Oaxaquena - The warm, generous owners of this place serve only a dabbling of actual Oaxacan food, fearing the Chicago market will not go whole hog for grasshoppers and other things. Regardless of the regionality, their kitchen produces some tasty food, and some of the tastiest are a group of sandwiches shown on their menu as "Super Torta's". One of the best Chowhounds for finding things, ReneG, first brought these sandwiches to wide acclaim. They are truly super. Each torta, a sandwich on a soft, almost superfluous, squishy roll, contains a stack of ingredients. One favorite smashes grilled chicken breast, grilled cesina, guacamole, onions, tomatoes, and cheese into the bun. Another favorite uses cactus and roasted jalapeno to join the cesina. An odd version throws in a gnarly fried hot dog. They make 3 outstanding salsa's that are practically my excuse to order the tortas.
Taqueria Puebla - The most intrepid and dedicated of all Chowhounds, RST found this stand on the NW side of Chicago. Owned by a former sports reporter for a Spanish radio station, the inside is plastered with posters and photo's of Mexican sports stars. It specializes in the street food of Puebla state, and a key part of this street food is the cemita sandwich. The cemita is much distinguished from the torta by roll. Crustier, egg washed and seeded, it has a flavor element that the torta roll, bollilo, does not. Flavor also comes from a spray of Mexican herbs, authentically, the soapy papalo, but they use whatever they can find. Olive oil dresses the sandwich instead of mayo.
Dona Lois - A bit of Mexico City on the far north side of Chicago. Most people get the quesadilla's made from scratch and filled with exotica like squash blossoms, but those with iron stomachs try the pambaso. In Mexico, the pambaso may refer also to a kind of bread, but in Chicago, it mostly refers to the act of drowning any sandwich roll in a vat of bloody chili sauce. It is served with soft cooked potatoes. A great combo!
Tortas USA (a/k/a Dona Torta) - Not so much a specialist in a regional style, but a restaurant selling 30 or so kinds of tortas. Beside a range of interesting fillings, the use a better torta roll, let you grab at will from a bowl of pickled jalapeno's and carrots (take that Rick Bayless!), and toss a few so-so french fries on your plate. Good fried fish, good breaded meat (milanesa), good pork leg, good roasted chili salsa, all finish the allure.
Taqueria Oaxaquena (2 locations)
3382 N. Milwaukee/6113 W. Diversy
Chicago
773-545-8585/773-637-8709
Taqueria Puebla-Mexico
3625 W. North
(773) 772-8435
Quesadillas Doña Lolis
6924 N Clark St
773-761-5677
Tortas USA
3057 N. Ashland Ave.
773-871-8999
On the SF board of Chowhound, having seen the tortas at La Torta in San Diego, got to talking about tortas.
UPDATE: Stanley Stephan turned me on to this post about Tijuana torta's and the differences between a torta and a lonche.
I recently wrote a thing about Mexican sammy's in Chicago. This RST post is even more informative on the subject.
Mexican food includes a lot of sandwiches, but these sandwiches were a late entry on most Mexican menu's in the USA. Up until recently, how many people even knew about the sandwich as part of the repatoire? Now, we see tortas and other Mexican sandwiches all over the place. Here are some good choices for sandwiches, Mexican style in Chicago.
Taqueria/Restaurant La Oaxaquena - The warm, generous owners of this place serve only a dabbling of actual Oaxacan food, fearing the Chicago market will not go whole hog for grasshoppers and other things. Regardless of the regionality, their kitchen produces some tasty food, and some of the tastiest are a group of sandwiches shown on their menu as "Super Torta's". One of the best Chowhounds for finding things, ReneG, first brought these sandwiches to wide acclaim. They are truly super. Each torta, a sandwich on a soft, almost superfluous, squishy roll, contains a stack of ingredients. One favorite smashes grilled chicken breast, grilled cesina, guacamole, onions, tomatoes, and cheese into the bun. Another favorite uses cactus and roasted jalapeno to join the cesina. An odd version throws in a gnarly fried hot dog. They make 3 outstanding salsa's that are practically my excuse to order the tortas.
Taqueria Puebla - The most intrepid and dedicated of all Chowhounds, RST found this stand on the NW side of Chicago. Owned by a former sports reporter for a Spanish radio station, the inside is plastered with posters and photo's of Mexican sports stars. It specializes in the street food of Puebla state, and a key part of this street food is the cemita sandwich. The cemita is much distinguished from the torta by roll. Crustier, egg washed and seeded, it has a flavor element that the torta roll, bollilo, does not. Flavor also comes from a spray of Mexican herbs, authentically, the soapy papalo, but they use whatever they can find. Olive oil dresses the sandwich instead of mayo.
Dona Lois - A bit of Mexico City on the far north side of Chicago. Most people get the quesadilla's made from scratch and filled with exotica like squash blossoms, but those with iron stomachs try the pambaso. In Mexico, the pambaso may refer also to a kind of bread, but in Chicago, it mostly refers to the act of drowning any sandwich roll in a vat of bloody chili sauce. It is served with soft cooked potatoes. A great combo!
Tortas USA (a/k/a Dona Torta) - Not so much a specialist in a regional style, but a restaurant selling 30 or so kinds of tortas. Beside a range of interesting fillings, the use a better torta roll, let you grab at will from a bowl of pickled jalapeno's and carrots (take that Rick Bayless!), and toss a few so-so french fries on your plate. Good fried fish, good breaded meat (milanesa), good pork leg, good roasted chili salsa, all finish the allure.
Taqueria Oaxaquena (2 locations)
3382 N. Milwaukee/6113 W. Diversy
Chicago
773-545-8585/773-637-8709
Taqueria Puebla-Mexico
3625 W. North
(773) 772-8435
Quesadillas Doña Lolis
6924 N Clark St
773-761-5677
Tortas USA
3057 N. Ashland Ave.
773-871-8999
Gorilla Gourmet Stomps Down Maxwell Street
Be Educated and Entertained!
The producers of Gorilla Gourmet insist my net participation points have value, but that there are too many above the line costs. I still believe you should buy a copy of this great production.
Modern documentary and black comedy. You will learn much about how to eat and shop at Chicago's weekly open air market and chowarama, and you will be thoroughly thrilled with the exploits of the fressers.
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